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| kranjčanka1. 10. 2013 09:19:47 |
Zebdi thanks for the reply. I didn't intend to order online or I'd check it in the store first. It's just that I want some opinions on self-protection kits, because as I wrote I have no experience. We're talking about via ferratas.
What makes the Black Diamond harness better than Salewa's?? Does it have sewn webbing, as you wrote that those are better?
What would you recommend to a beginner?? That it's not in the higher price range or acceptable for average folks and that it's decent quality?
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| Keko1. 10. 2013 12:23:29 |
The protection kits are fine with both, both have sewn webbing. The difference is in the climbing harness. Salewa's is simpler, the BD harness is a bit higher quality as it's padded and more comfortable to wear. The BD harness could still be used for sport climbing, while Salewa's is mainly usable just for via ferrata protection.
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| a51. 10. 2013 19:23:56 |
For the SVK, it's essential that the carabiner is light and easy to use. Otherwise, it quickly gets on your nerves switching every few meters. BD Easy Rider undoubtedly has the best carabiner for via ferratas. I have it myself. If buying again, I'd probably go for Iron Cruiser. It's almost as good but 20 eur cheaper.
The BD might bother you with a slightly larger and heavier "pouch" but in practice it doesn't matter. Other makers have smaller pouches but heavier and clumsier carabiners. No doubt worth paying a bit more for BD Iron Cruiser or Easy Rider.
For safety, the most you can do is check the SVK per manufacturer's instructions. Check production year and lifespan. And see if there was any recall http://safety.theuiaa.org/front/front_search_list_recall.php (Energy absorbing system).
If the harness doesn't fit well, it's throwing money out the window. Not worth buying something that chafes etc. Especially for long via ferratas. In your case, I'd definitely go for a women's-specific harness.
Ideally, leg loops open so no need to pull boots through. And great if it has a clip at the back for attaching elastics.
If you're from Kranj, go to ProMontana to check harnesses. They've always given me 20% discount on nice request. Say
http://www.promontana.si/oprema/plezalna-oprema/plezalni-pasovi.html?spol=451
Especially that Puma Lady harness is from last season so wouldn't take less than 20% off. Or something like that
http://www.iglusport.si/zenski-pas-plezalni-primrose-sa/3
For 50 eur you get a super comfortable harness.
Helmet needs to be light and ventilated. One you put on and forget you're wearing it. If buying again, probably Mammut Rock Rider. In your case try Petzl Elia (285g).
Half Dome isn't exactly a gem among helmets.
Price difference between OK and SUPER is maybe 20%. Especially if you haggle for discounts.
This BD kit is down from 200 eur to 140 eur. If you take
BD Iron Cruiser = 80 eur + 50-60 eur harness + Petzl Elia 53 eur. Comes to less than regular BD kit price without discounts. If you haggle more, close to the discounted kit price.
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| Močerad1. 10. 2013 21:10:38 |
Both Iron Cruiser and Easy Rider are excellent (tested both in practice). The only difference is in the connectors, which are easier to handle on the Easy Rider model. Switching on the Iron Cruiser model is a bit more tedious because the connector opens with a twist of the protector. Easy Rider connectors release more easily - just with pressure. We've owned both kits for two years and are very satisfied. One reason to buy might be that Black Diamond is one of the few manufacturers not involved in self-protection kit recalls so far.
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| Zebdi2. 10. 2013 08:59:08 |
kranjčanka, all gear sold in specialized shops meets UIAA standards, meaning it's safe enough to use. With helmets there's no big science - take the one that's most comfortable or fits your head best. Just avoid ultra-light helmets - those are primarily for climbing hard multi-pitch routes. A few grams more won't be noticeable, but the helmet will be much more durable. I have one from Kibuba (Climbing Technology, price around 30-40 eur), and I'm very satisfied.
For SVKs they've already told you the essentials, i.e. sewn webbing, elastic arms and connectors that are easy to handle. Black Diamond Easy Rider is probably top choice, for Iron Cruiser personally I wouldn't choose it - just because of the connectors. If Easy Rider is too expensive, Kibuba has sets from Rock Empire and Salewa - both with elastic arms, sewn webbing and similar connectors to Easy Rider. If I'm not mistaken, prices around 60 EUR. Go and check them out, try which connector suits you best.
Same for harness - take the one most comfortable - both for walking and sitting in harness (hanging). For via ferratas I'd prioritize walking comfort, but definitely wouldn't buy a harness uncomfortable for hanging.
And one more thing - specialized shops (Iglu Šport, Kibuba...) will advise you much better than some Hervis etc.
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| kranjčanka2. 10. 2013 09:35:59 |
thanks everyone for the detailed info
now just off to hunt for gear
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| makris3. 10. 2013 13:41:23 |
The mentioned BD Easy Rider is on sale today at Kibuba (so-called product of the day).
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| zico1015. 03. 2015 09:44:53 |
http://www.iglusport.si/komplet-samovarovalni-set-ferrata-matrix-rewind
nice regards, in the very near future I plan to buy a self-protection kit. Since it's an important matter I won't look at money, as it can be the only thing that saves you in case of accident. I'd ask experienced folks for opinion, what would be smartest to get. If you can paste some link.
I've mainly looked at Kibuba and Iglu, if in some other shop or abroad no problem.
Above I pasted link to the protection I looked at and it's closest to me because it can be used even after a fall, namely if doing some demanding tour so you don't stay in the middle. Is there any better? Also interested in differences in harnesses, recommend some link for that too.
thanks for answers, safe steps ;-)
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| SunBurned15. 03. 2015 10:25:07 |
I think what they advertise (that it can be used again after a possible fall) is a bit misleading. Because any kit can theoretically still be used to the end of the tour, just no more shock absorption ---> tears faster on next fall or at least breaks the climber's spine quicker. (which means "practically" unusable, theoretically still ok)
Maybe I missed something...
For choice, I'd mainly thoroughly test the climbing harness (if you don't have one); namely that it doesn't bind anywhere, comfort, and buckles don't loosen when bending over, moving, stretching, turning... try as many as possible. Personally I misjudged here on purchase, should have tested more thoroughly.
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| Smetar15. 03. 2015 11:34:39 |
@zico10: it depends on the use; if you intend to use it more for ferratas of lower difficulty, it is too expensive, since in case of a fall, you have to replace at least the absorber if sufficient force is generated. The SVK lifespan is generally 3-5 years depending on use and care.
http://www.kibuba.com/?cID=108&pID=1859 I recommend this one. Simple and cost-effective for use. Regarding the rope, you just have to be careful that it doesn't get caught around the leg while climbing. (more info: http://www.rockempire.cz/product/inhibitor-tech-1049/ ).
Besides SVK and climbing harness, you will need a helmet, daisy chain (sling and karabiner = resting and photographing  ) and gloves
If you lack knowledge of its use, I recommend acquiring it on some safe walking course within PD or GRZS.
Regarding the harness, pay attention to size, purpose of use, and experience. There are also ferrata kits (harness+SVK+helmet) that are usually cost-effective.
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| zico1015. 03. 2015 13:49:13 |
Thanks to both for the quick reply, I already have a helmet since for the last 3 years I have been going to mid-mountains and high mountains very frequently, that's why the desire arose at the beginning for more demanding paths where SVK use is recommended and easier ferratas abroad. So I'm happy for every piece of information and see that maybe it is really better to buy something in that style that you linked and if later the desire for harder ferratas grabs me, upgrade my kit.
I would just ask if you could also link the sling and karabiner, because I haven't even studied it.
For the harness, I'll drop by Kibuba and Iglu during the week and take one that fits my butt :-D
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| Smetar15. 03. 2015 15:41:00 |
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| zico1016. 03. 2015 19:52:24 |
Thanks, I'm just wondering if there is a big difference between the suggested kit with snap hook vs the one with shock absorber but it's sewn?
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| Smetar16. 03. 2015 20:20:35 |
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| zico1017. 03. 2015 09:11:37 |
Yes, I mean the SVK itself, generally between this system with snap vs classic brake system and those with sewn absorption system?
p.s. I read the link, with classic you can use it till the end of the tour then replace, with sewn system you'd have to remove it right away. If I understand correctly.
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| Smetar17. 03. 2015 10:16:21 |
More or less it's about the brake system itself or absorbing (transfer) of force. The classic one is a bit simpler to repair but supposedly (slightly) less effective at absorbing force than the one with absorber. But if you're not really into "via ferrata" it doesn't make a big difference.
Otherwise one (old) recommendation if you think you'll fall on a certain tour then don't go on that tour. It's nice to anticipate a possible fall and know how to react if it happens, but best is to prepare well for the tour beforehand 
P.S.
It depends on the fall; with classic if rope too worn from fall or damaged carabiner you can't surely use it till end of tour or you can but no guarantee it holds another fall...
With sewn system it transfers more force to absorber and damages sooner (weight over 100kg - backpack included  )
Another recommendation:
If you think the tour is too hard for you go with some buddy who knows ferratas or with mountaineering club.
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| zico1017. 03. 2015 11:18:13 |
Smetar, thank you very much for all the advice and kindness.
It's nice that experienced people share their knowledge, since there are fewer and fewer such people 
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| xxxyx18. 05. 2015 08:11:56 |
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| Branee18. 05. 2015 10:30:33 |
OK, the thing ain't "palamudit".
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| Becar18. 05. 2015 17:02:46 |
I've had such a one for a few years myself and I'm satisfied with it. It's one of the few that during mass recalls of gear weren't on the black lists.
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