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| Janez Seliškar19. 11. 2015 21:13:52 |
"urarr", don't start sprinkling ashes on yourself now and promising some nice edited recording.
You were in the wrong place at the wrong time. Everything you filmed and now comment on shows only escape from impossible conditions. You probably didn't choose the tour to fight for your own survival.
Good luck on the next tours!!
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| urarrr19. 11. 2015 21:28:40 |
@JanezSeliškar
With all due respect
The strong wind did surprise us a bit, as most people from Stüdlhütte winter room went down to the valley when they woke up. Well, we had a break for about an hour and continued....
The wind was forecast at 50kmh but it was a bit more gusty... but it's true we're all used to it since we're from Nanos, so we decided to go on...
Otherwise, who mentions fighting for survival, it was still very, very far from that...
But that doesn't mean I have to lie down and wait for darkness and even colder. A one-day ascent requires a bit more movement....
bestM
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| tilenko19. 11. 2015 21:42:53 |
I usually never comment here, because based on everything I've read it's beneath my dignity to argue, but I'll write anyway. The conditions were far from critical, luck had nothing to do with it. Matej is capable of climbing this confidently because he's been up there many times. The way of communication can be whatever two friends want. Their business. Sure, not everything was by the book but it's their business and no need for lynching. Lesson for the next adventures, of which there will surely be plenty. 
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| SamoK19. 11. 2015 21:56:57 |
tilenko, Matej can go climbing with hands tied behind his back for all I care, but when he posts it here, unfortunately he can be a bad example for that crowd that just bought (in order of importance) watch, helmet and rope, and takes video-capable Matej as authoritative. That's the only problem. No one said he shouldn't go as he wants, and yell at his friend if that's how they agreed.
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| Busterman19. 11. 2015 22:36:07 |
The idea that people learn climbing techniques from random videos and pictures they find on the internet is more of a myth in my opinion. If it's true, those people will have many other much bigger problems on the ascent anyway, than bad securing.
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| carniolus20. 11. 2015 07:48:00 |
As a complete climbing layman, it seems unusual to me by common sense how the roped connection of two alpinists without a fixed intermediate anchor on such terrain can be safe? How would the one belaying prevent the slip of both, in case one of them falls?
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| lino20. 11. 2015 14:36:41 |
Matej, by removing the sound from the video you deprived some of gnawing on a big bone. Bon appétit to the deprived ones!
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| redbull20. 11. 2015 15:34:38 |
Why does it seem to me or am I wrong, that Linot is some kid
Sorry if I'm wrong
good luck
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| redbull20. 11. 2015 15:34:39 |
Why does it seem to me or am I wrong, that Linot is some kid
Sorry if I'm wrong
good luck
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| jax20. 11. 2015 15:56:49 |
carniolus
20.11.2015 As a complete climbing layman, it seems unusual to me by common sense how the roped connection of two alpinists without a fixed intermediate anchor on such terrain can be safe? How would the one belaying prevent the slip of both, in case one of them falls?
Khm, I'm no expert either, but I'll write something anyway. Roping without belay stations is kind of an alpinistic open secret. It's not taught in mountaineering courses, not mentioned in any literature (except glacier), but you can't talk to an alpinist without him telling you he's done it. Someone with more experience will say more about why, but basically it's quite simple and concerns long easier routes in high mountains (like Stüdlgrat). These are routes where belaying isn't needed all the time. And if you wanted to climb such a route strictly by the rules, you'd have to constantly rope up and unrope, losing huge amounts of time, even more nerves. So many parties in such routes decide to move roped without belaying, fully aware that on easier terrain it means high risk and requires even more caution.
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| Kolar20. 11. 2015 16:01:19 |
@redbull, I completely agree and that was also my first thought since he started commenting here recently
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| dprapr20. 11. 2015 16:52:24 |
@jax, you hit the nail on the head.
Of course this only applies to trained teams fighting the clock. Although in most cases it would be better and of course safer for the team to unrope if not belaying. Especially if it's a longer section in the route.
In such conditions (rock, ice, snow, steep, exposed sections), it applies even more.
Especially if you're grabbing steep snow steps with bare hands(gloves), and behind you the second climber in the team is climbing at the same time.
We can't even remotely compare this to "similar" guiding protection on such ridges, although it sometimes looks dangerous.
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| palček plezalček20. 11. 2015 19:56:24 |
@jax... If climbing a multi-pitch route 'by the rules', you basically don't tie in and untie. Both climbers tie into the rope at the start of the route (usually, of course parts of the route can be climbed unroped) and untie when the ascent is done, but if descent is dangerous, can descend roped part of the time.
@carniolus... in classic route protection you never have fixed intermediate anchors. The leader climbs and clips quickdraws (system of two linked carabiners) into pitons already in the wall or places them. Can also clip cams/friends, nuts/stoppers/chocks, or around horns, blocks and other features hangs a prusik (cord usually tied in a loop with extension knot), clips a carabiner to it and rope into it. When reaching the belay/anchor makes a 'stance', which should always be at least on two good pitons, threads remaining rope and usually with Munter hitch over the anchor belays the second. If [it's a] team of equal climbers, second continues leading next pitch upon reaching 'stance'. No fixed anchors anywhere during pitch, whatever you meant. In Štajerc you protect basically by leader placing pitons, friends..., second unclips and cleans. If e.g. second falls, would pull leader off balance too, but both held by intermediate gear. Since much more dangerous than pitch-by-pitch with intermediate stances, not taught in AO schools. Btw, Štajerc [is] extremely useful, because route length and time sometimes [can be] much more exhausting and dangerous than Štajerc.
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| andrej7820. 06. 2016 06:54:56 |
Hello... has anyone gone to Grossglockner via Pasterze these days? Interested if the hut is already open and especially conditions on the glacier...
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| UROS120. 06. 2016 07:22:30 |
I'm also interested in conditions, have to do it soon. Anyone gone from Kals? Is the upper hut already open?
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| Janez Seliškar20. 06. 2016 07:53:06 |
Given that it's a glacier tour, asking about conditions is unnecessary. You need to have all the equipment for moving in such terrain, monitor the weather forecast and set off on the tour.
The hut was opened 18.06.
*
http://www.erzherzog-johann-huette.at/index.htm
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| UROS120. 06. 2016 18:48:10 |
Very good link. Super that the hut is already open.
Janez, many thanks for such useful info. I didn't know about this website and this webcam.
Super !!!
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| pikpok20. 06. 2016 20:18:39 |
It would be more interesting if someone has this information, if the Stüdlgrat is already dry - or rather in easier conditions....?
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| UROS120. 06. 2016 20:50:52 |
I agree. But based on what I saw on the webcam there's still a huge amount of snow up there, I'm afraid it won't go yet, that it's still too early or too dangerous. Let's wait until Thursday afternoon, then we'll see how much snow this heat will take away, which is now forecast until Friday. Forecasts for the weekend aren't good, at least today's forecast - it shows it will rain all weekend, with thunderstorms in between....
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