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| Guest21. 07. 2007 11:58:39 |
What can you tell me about the summit? How to get to the top and difficulty, starting point... Thanks for the answers, Igor.
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| Guest23. 07. 2007 15:57:33 |
here is the description of the easiest route:
http://www2.arnes.si/~sodurust/glockn.html
from the hut at 3400m to the summit you need to climb a bit...there's some snow, so crampons and ice axe are mandatory equipment...rope is also recommended. otherwise there are quite a few metal pins and bolts on the mountain, so you just need some quickdraws.
I was up there last weekend, so the info is fresh...
more info at plastic.emil@gmail.com
best, Emil
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| Guest25. 07. 2007 11:12:52 |
Does anyone have info on what condition the lower part of the Pasterze glacier near Heiligenblut is in.
Best, Davorin
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| Guest25. 07. 2007 22:09:54 |
Igor, what have you done so far, what are your experiences with using winter gear? Tomi.
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| Guest26. 07. 2007 06:06:51 |
The hardest winter tour was Jalovški glacier. Then I had an ice axe, crampons were in the backpack since I didn't need them. Igor
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| Guest26. 07. 2007 06:46:04 |
Tomi, given the conditions today the situation on Grossglockner is such that you'll have crampons and ice axe in hand, in the upper part you'll have to climb with crampons on rock. Take the book by Andrej Mašer, Wonderful Alps. Very nice and pictorial description.
Best
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| Guest26. 07. 2007 12:32:46 |
I know mountains like Grossglockner and similar ones. I do quite a bit of ski touring and alpinistic skiing. I have experience.
I was asking mainly because some think that if they go to Šmarna gora, they can then just climb Mont Blanc.... 
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| Guest26. 07. 2007 12:33:19 |
OK, the above I wrote... Tomi.
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| maiden5. 10. 2009 08:38:53 |
Wow, that looks really tough. Old man, well done, congrats =)
Are there more routes on Grossglockner? Sure, I believe, but this one, say, described on hribi.net seems easier to me than the one you presented now =)
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| tompa38521. 01. 2010 13:12:13 |
Nice regards! Planning a winter ascent on Gross soon and wonder if someone knows how it is with the huts? Mainly orlovo gnjezdo is closed, and for studl I don't know.. If someone was or plans to go, let them share with us...
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| šerpa19. 07. 2010 22:26:03 |
Congratulations! With friends we were up there 10 days before you. Still quite some snow especially along the Kleinglockner ridge on those smooth slabs, also in the notch itself and on Gross summit. We went in the afternoon to Studlhutte, overnighted there, at six in the morning then same path as you to summit and back to the valley. Weather so-so but nevertheless unforgettable. Next time hope we go via Studlgrat. Lp
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| ploha20. 07. 2010 17:12:36 |
Thanks, šerpa. True, even on Monday crampons to summit but summer sun visibly melting it up there too. As for weather, we second half had no ideal conditions either so no crowd and we alone on summit which is worth a lot. Me too hope next time from Studlhutte direct to summit. Lp
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| IgorZlodej3. 08. 2011 19:02:11 |
Yesterday around noon we set off from the parking lot at Lucknerhaus along a nice path to Lucknerhütte and on to Stüdelhütte. We spent the afternoon with some climbing the nearby Blue Wand, others under Stüdlgrat. After a plentiful dinner we went to rest at the usual hour. The hut was exceptionally quiet overall, though full to the last corner, some spent the night on auxiliary beds. In the morning after breakfast we headed out among the first towards Erzherzog Johann Hütte, arriving in an hour and a half. Conditions over the glacier excellent, of course we used crampons. Occasionally it was blowing quite hard, but it calmed towards the top. As usual this time, plenty of rope teams on the ridge, but no major holdups (if not for the Hungarians). Still we got to the summit quickly and were already back in the hut by 10 o'clock. Then snack, then descent to the valley, for which we chose Luisengrat or the glacier below it (Teischnitzkees), nicely snow-covered this year. Nice tour, first for one, third for the second and for the third already counting on the fingers of the other hand.
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| viharnik3. 08. 2011 19:45:39 |
Yesterday I planned to go to Stüdlhütte too and we almost met, if I hadn't chatted too much with the Austrians. So I descended at noon to the full parking lot. Mostly the mountaineers went towards the highest mountain. Nice for you and for me. Lp
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| IgorZlodej4. 08. 2011 18:33:07 |
Too bad @viharnik, if we don't meet at ours, at least at the neighbors, otherwise adding some more pics from the top, my camera froze up there though it wasn't cold .
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| viharnik4. 08. 2011 19:10:48 |
You had a great time up there and judging by the pics an easy ascent. I too was somehow drawn by the crowds only towards Grossglockner, but on glaciers always the rule of three in a rope team. There was quite some frost in the morning at least with the northerly, later the sun quickly warmed the mountains. Interesting, I felt already at the parking lot that there were some familiar faces among them. Today the two did a respectable tour to Montaž, congrats! .
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| picco7. 08. 2011 15:16:26 |
Viharnik you are totally wild. Will you do Elbrus too? What's the difficulty for Pezek harder or easier than Italian Mangart? lp
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