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Grossglockner

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1mitjas22. 04. 2013 16:12:10
The tour has quite a long beard already, but winter weather made the awakening from winter hibernation quite painful. So now I really don't know when I'll outpace myself.

On Monday 15 and Tuesday 16.4. Matej and I circled Veliki Klek (Grossglockner) as part of the professional exam. The start from the parking lot at Lucknerhaus was early, yet a crowd of ski tourers surrounded us. We walked among them to Studelhutte, there we turned down from the popular path and climbed to Rosmariewandsattel. From the saddle we skied down to the upper Paterz, climbed to Jochanisberg and descended to the Oberwalder hut. Snow was mostly well skiable, but not top-notch. The sun burned mercilessly all day and provided a good tan.

More with pictures at: http://gorski.vodnik.alpinizem.net/blog/
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Janez Kastrevc12. 05. 2013 12:24:01
This year we plan to go up with colleagues! Somewhere I saw that in Austria for harder tours you supposedly need a mandatory guide!? Is that true?? I'm curious how you went up? Alone or with a guide? Which month is best for the ascent?

Thanks in advance for the answers!
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urarrr12. 05. 2013 12:56:27
check ZS
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Janez Kastrevc12. 05. 2013 14:53:04
Thanks
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IgorZlodej8. 06. 2013 16:34:47
A beautiful Thursday morning promised a nice day. I started relatively late at Lucknerhaus; already below at the cargo cableway, I put on my skis and went via shortcuts to the top. The conditions and skiing were excellent for this time.
nice view1
flawless weather2
view of Ködnitzkees3
towards the summit4
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excellent ski descent6
towards Lucknerhütte7
idyllic above Kals8
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skalaš708. 06. 2013 16:53:16
Bravo Igor and photos on topnasmeh.
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otiv8. 06. 2013 17:11:17
Congratulations for all steps upwards, as well as turns downwards. I wouldn't manage even in dreams.nasmeh
Super pictures!
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urarrr8. 06. 2013 23:17:44
Cheers Igor...

Is the hut at 3500 already open...

regards
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Bojan_L9. 06. 2013 12:51:05
Bravo Igor! Beautiful ascent on a wonderful day!

I'd also ask for some info - are Studlhütte and Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte still closed?

How do you rate avalanche danger? How much settling?

What's the glacier condition?
What's the ridge condition with all that snow?

If weather allows, planning mid-week up there, info would mean a lot.

Cheers!

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IgorZlodej9. 06. 2013 13:54:37
All huts except Lucknerhaus at the parking lot below are still closed, the top two have winter rooms where overnighting is possible. I had ideal conditions, hard frozen, need to start very early because later it could get quite soft, no beaten tracks, but saw snowshoe prints. On the ridge I had perfect conditions, those who've been up know it's much easier snow-covered than bare.
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Bojan_A15. 06. 2013 11:15:04
Did you go along the Studelgrat ridge?
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IgorZlodej15. 06. 2013 12:43:12
No Bojan. I think it's clear from the pictureswinking
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kastro23. 06. 2013 12:37:45
Maybe someone knows how it is with the ramp on GGHA Strasse in recent years? Is it raised or lowered and locked outside of "working hours"?
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Gric5. 08. 2013 19:16:57
Tuesday 30.07.2013 after work we set off from Ljubljana: Helena, Aleš, Dario and Gregor. Parking at Lucknerhaus and quick path to Stüdlhütte, where excellent dinner followed (recommend!). Across Teischnitzkees glacier roped up as four, then on the ridge roped up as two. The ridge path is entirely dry. Followed descent over Kleineglockner (recommend crampons on as soon as you descend to the saddle), past Erzherzog-Johann-hütte and on across Ködnitzkees glacier to the valley.

Pictures with route descriptions on Picasa

regards, Gregor
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matjaz112. 08. 2013 13:42:20
On Grossglockner as described by Gric 5.8. nothing new, just that the snowfield under the little Klek saddle is much shorter than his picture shows, but crampons still highly recommended. We two started at 3am by bike from parking at Luckner hut, to upper hut (further bike riding forbidden). From Studl hut over glacier didn't use crampons, although most did. On Studlgrat ridge progressed relatively fast, as we belayed only on slab (III+). Descent by normal route, past Johan hut to Studl hut on snow real pleasure. Then descent to bikes, one beer in hut, then to car and looong way dragging on asphalt home. One-day tour quite strenuous, but when all ends well, you say that's it, nice, and thoughts already drifting elsewhere. Where-when?, hope as soon as possible.
Best regards Matjaž
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Bojan_A1. 09. 2013 10:03:01
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PFranci11. 04. 2014 22:27:50
Conditions improve only on the glacier, where towards the top there was already over 40 cm of new snow. Here Mojca and Irena finished and skied to Studelhütte hut, Cvet and I continued to the summit. Conditions were quite demanding due to little snow, only visibility improved.
After return to skis, which we left at the first rocks above the upper glacier, we skied in the approach direction. In the upper part there was powder snow, lower down the snow was already crusty and the old ski tracks were no problem.
It was another nice day despite somewhat worse weather than forecast.
Regards]]>
It snowed a bit overnight1
At 2200m very little snow2
Occasionally the sun appeared3
4
Visibility is improving5
On the little Glockner6
7
Adrenaline-packed8
Nice ridge9
Can't go higher10
Snapshot11
12
Good there was no crowd...13
14
Some are still ascending15
April corn snow for the first time...16
...and the second time17
Lucknerhütte hut18
19
Interesting architecture20
Gasilska at the end too. Unfortunately the summit is not visible.21
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redbull12. 04. 2014 08:25:55
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udrnovsek21. 04. 2014 13:53:14
Wednesday afternoon we drove to Kals, start Lucknerhaus (1918m) and skied to Studlhütte (2802m) by evening. Slept in excellently stocked hut (sleep for club members 12€, full half-board/top service ca 45€). Can reach here without skis too.
Thursday morning we continued further on route no.5 (see last pic from leaflet) exiting right under Adlersruhe.
The better ones did it left too (avoiding ridge under Adlersruhe), up and down.
Note that from here to ridge under Adlersruhe not recommended without skis or crampons, as it sinks knee-deep.
Path to little GG is icy so only possible up with crampons. Climbing part (no fixed rope!!!) actually only last 50m before summit.
If no crowd, nothing dangerous. But if some parties rush up, others down (no traffic light) it becomes quite chaotic and belaying is mandatory, as someone might accidentally kick you down the slope.
Morning temperature about -12 and gusty at times. Fingers hard as plastic. Otherwise blue skies all day. Morning snow very dry and wind-blown around, afternoon already crusty so no longer that highly desired powder.
Descent not on same path (past Studlhütte hut) but more to the right (looking down towards Kals) somehow under the cargo cableway from Lucknerhütte to Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte.
Little snow below Lucknerhütte but walk to parking at Lucknerhaus only 5 min.]]>
View towards Studel hut1
View of Veliki Klek (Grossglockner)2
View to the east from Kodnitzkees glacier3
Just below Erzherzog-Johann-Hutte (still on skis)4
Just below Erzherzog-Johann-Hutte (on the ridge/without skis)5
Just below Erzherzog-Johann-Hutte (on the ridge/without skis)6
View from the ridge of Malega Kleka towards Kars7
View from the ridge of Malega Kleka towards the summit of Velikega Kleka.8
Source: brochure for Studl-hutte hut9
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katja873. 08. 2014 16:48:09


Route: Lucknerhaus hut (1984m) - Lucknerhütte hut (2241m) - Studlhütte hut (2801m) - Erzherzog Johann Hütte hut (3454m) - Grossglockner summit (3798m) - and back the ascent route.

More pics on Mountaineering Society Matica Murska Sobota website: http://www.mojalbum.com/pdmaticams/20140720-gro-glockner-3798m/razgled-na-gro-glockner-s-parkirisca-pri-koci-lucknerhaus/21843524]]>
View of Grossglockner from the starting point1
View of Grossglockner from the path2
View of the continuing path to the Erzherzog Johann Hutte hut3
View of Grossglockner from the hut4
Joy at the summit of Grossglockner (3798m)5
Views from the summit6
Beautiful views of the surrounding peaks7
Beautiful views of the surrounding peaks8
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