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Matkov kot - Matkov škaf

dprapr10. 06. 2014 16:59:23

To me, this path seems more pleasant in snow - both up and down. Of course with winter gear!
Jump under Latvica already has pitons out, ledges with belay not yet!

(+2)

jannika10. 06. 2014 17:46:13

I tried to go up today but it went wrong already about 1/2 hour from Škaf... one big snowfield which I crossed with crampons and ice axe, but turned out undermined at edges and too dangerous to jump from it to rock, also question what's next. It's crumbly, so if someone behind you it's deadly dangerous, and also slides from top. When I turned back and packed gear, then while crossing 3m snowfield I slipped and slid some 30m and thank God somehow onto rocks. To me personally Mrzla gora currently too dangerous.

(+4)

dprapr10. 06. 2014 18:06:14

You can pack gear only just below Škaf!!
Otherwise, above Škaf first gentle snowfield scattered with stones, which steepens to first belays left, which are partially out. Above belay stony section on scree, then initially steep and later gentler continuous snowfield to jump under Latvica. To pitons via snow on right side, above them again continuous snow to ridge above Latvica. On ridge I wasn't on Friday (was on Krnička gora), but I think already clear.

(+2)

pohodnik3810. 06. 2014 23:15:12

There is still lots of snow on the path to Mrzla gora from Matkov kot. Photos from 6.6.2014.

Roughly drawn how the path to Mrzla gora goes (from memory)

the upper part crosses the snowfield towards Krnička gora

(+2)

dprapr11. 06. 2014 06:32:27

Tone, did you take the 2nd picture at 10:30?

pohodnik3811. 06. 2014 19:12:04

The photo was taken exactly at 10:23.... sorry for the late reply.

dprapr11. 06. 2014 19:26:22

Thanks, Tone!
You caught me perfectly!
Regards

montura13. 06. 2014 11:45:53

If I understand correctly, a helmet is recommended up to the chimney, what about winter gear?

smatjaz13. 06. 2014 12:04:50

Yes, helmet is mandatory in the upper part among the rocks, with crampons it's possible without them too, but why bother with two steps forward and one back and wet ass velik nasmeh

(+1)

montura13. 06. 2014 12:08:33

Thanks for quick reply, regards!

klemzi8813. 06. 2014 12:23:13

Access to the chimney is possible without winter gear. Those without it, don't be scared nasmeh

(+2)

pohodnik3824. 06. 2014 18:42:34

Excellent film about climbing in Matkov Chimney.

VIDEO

(+2)

redbull24. 06. 2014 19:08:34

perfect video

LidijaJesih28. 06. 2014 19:34:46

After so much enthusiasm and a longer time, had to check the chimney. Still big and snow under it far into the valley. Climbed up it as far as possible, descended the same. With small crampons, in the upper steep part they did no harm. More and more summer path outside too. Walked almost through the whole gully from the start, but can drive very close to the hut as seen by the parked (really few) cars. Cows already grazing, few people. Nice trip.