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Gulleys, icefalls, winter alpine ascents

Mihc00712. 01. 2017 23:17:39

11.01.2017
Climbed in Lusev Graben.
Report.

(+5)

Viper14. 01. 2017 18:30:11

Icefall Kotel
I went to check this icefall too, which is really gentle enough to climb without problems. But fresh snow and no longer such low temperatures did their thing. Quite a bit of water flows on the right side, so in my opinion the safest was to climb the left side. It would have been somehow climbable on the right too, but I would have been completely wet. The last pitch is the steepest, the ice already quite brittle. So I climbed the last pitch more to the right, where I found some somewhat solid ice.

(+3)

JusAvgustin15. 01. 2017 17:09:17

Today in Martuljek stream gorge past Curek and Matandre lines to 1st Martuljek icefall, past it on path to valley. Curek climbable, Matandre too but latter has bit crumbly exit. Given temps crowd in Lucifer expected. Thanks Bojan for track. Descended normal route to parking.

(+4)

Bojan_A15. 01. 2017 17:24:29

I didn't know the names of those icefalls. I tried to climb them. But they quickly become vertical and so I preferred to turn back. So you're saying if you climb those two icefalls you reach the path? How long are they?

Bojan_A15. 01. 2017 17:33:06

Today I climbed Tominčev icefall:

https://bojanambrozic.com/2017/01/15/tomincev-slap/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CoHlh9QTpjI

(+1)

JusAvgustin15. 01. 2017 18:39:02

Bojan: Icefalls in Martuljek
This winter will be remembered as one of those where nature was especially generous with frozen "icefalls". They even appeared where they usually don't. We've reported on many, now three more in Martuljek.
Matej Meglič and Andrej Zaman climbed on March 27 in the gorge below Martuljek waterfall (left at pension Špik, then gravel road to the gorge, which takes you to the icefalls in a few minutes). Not knowing if anyone climbed them before, they named them: first Curek (III+, 60-70°, 80 m), second Matandre (IV, IV+, 80/60-70°, 110 m). They report conditions were still quite good.

peterr15. 01. 2017 20:39:18

From which year is this report?

(+2)

Bojan_A15. 01. 2017 20:53:24

Looks like 1993: http://www.gore-ljudje.net/novosti/86421/

Bojan_A21. 01. 2017 20:56:47

Today I was in Gamsova gully in Ablanca. But I turned back due to bad snow conditions. Backup tour was then Veliki Draški vrh: https://bojanambrozic.com/2017/01/21/gamsova-grapa-v-ablanci-in-veliki-draski-vrh/

(+4)

JusAvgustin22. 01. 2017 03:37:16

What did you expect? Spring snow? eek

(+2)

Viper22. 01. 2017 16:26:16

Yesterday I went to Logarska valley to see how well the icefalls were formed. I saw they were excellent. For the first one I chose Kaskada, graded 3. Ice was excellent, here and there some mushroom formed. From the top of the icefall a path leads back below.
Since it wasn't much yet, I decided for icefall Avtocesta too, which is a bit easier than Kaskada. Of course ice was excellent here too.
Today I went to Kokre canyon and there climbed Gozdna vila icefall, graded 3. Steepest part in the icefall is around 85 degrees for about 4-5m. Conditions here excellent too.

Kaskada Waterfall - view from the main road

Midway up the waterfall and view of the last part of the waterfall

Second curtain. The most demanding and steep part in the waterfall

View down the hardest part. In the company of three from Kranj

(+10)

Viper28. 01. 2017 21:16:49

Today I climbed with Stane Balant in the Kokre gorges. For the first icefall we chose Kratek slap and climbed it very quickly unroped and descended from the top along the road back below the icefall.
From there we continued towards the gorges all the way to Desna grapa v Koritu. We climbed the lower part of the icefall without protection. For the upper curtain we decided to belay and climbed it without major problems. From the top of the icefall we had to abseil back below the icefall on the rope. This icefall is also excellently formed and the nicest part of the icefall for me was just the last part.
When we both arrive back below this icefall Stane asks me if we go for another icefall or end climbing nasmeh

?
Of course I tell him, let's go for one more icefall. We choose Drugi slap and climb it in one full pitch and descend from the top with the help of the rope. This icefall was also one of the nicer ones in Kokra. The ice is so good it can't be better.

First view towards the rear part of Desna grapa

At the beginning of the Second waterfall

(+8)

Viper29. 01. 2017 21:48:27

With a friend we went today to climb Fortino icefall at Rabeljsko lake. The icefall is really interesting especially the first pitch, which is already completely holed out, so no lack of stances and no need to hammer ice screws much, because you can just place them in the pre-made holes. After the end of the first pitch we reached the gully, where three really easy steps awaited us. After those three steps we thought it was the end. Well a bit higher left we spotted the last part of the icefall. On the steeper part we roped up again and in three pitches reached the top of the icefall. From the top we abseiled on rope 2x 60m and continued descent on the path left of the icefall all the way to the car.