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Gulleys, icefalls, winter alpine ascents

garmont8. 04. 2015 21:20:19

Congrats, Andrej!
Even dry it's a real tour, now though...

(+1)

Volk8. 04. 2015 21:30:08

Andrej and company, congrats from me too!
Last year on dry ascent also thought about winter feat. Undoubtedly will grab me sooner or later. Thanks for the show. mežikanje

P.s. Macesnovec from Krma? Between, felt possible passages! Of course as easy as possible ... velik nasmeh

Nice greetings to all.

(+1)

jedriličar8. 04. 2015 21:33:03

No gully, but winter alpine ascent, so belongs here ... mežikanje

congrats on tour ... I goofed velik nasmeh

(+2)

mpolo10. 04. 2015 14:22:22

TRIPLE IN LITTLE MOJSTROVKA!! jezik

Start 6.30am from Vršič..(depending on goal and weather/snow conditions at least 1h too late!!!! +3 degrees at start!!!) jezen

Ascent to MM via Župančičeva, descent via Pripravniška, repeat ascent via Butinarjeva (partly) and descent thru Vratca back to car....

Conditions to entry of Župančičeva ideal (hard, crampons on halfway to entry)
First 150m of couloir ideal but once in sun zone already softened. Especially turning left up from mid open gentle part to MM summit there slush after 8am already flowing lots and pretty sun-soft (small rock step at start of last part..for now no big deal-stretch over slush ice axe in moss ice and go)...WARNING big serac at couloir exit right above it...so it might (see pic) with spring temps soon crash over couloir to valley....

Summit no wind.. cool

slush drunk and down thru Pripravniška.Couloir still good..Upper part small step STILL NOT problematic...since sun not direct on worst parts yet snow good for descent (better for ascent sure)... mežikanje

Repeat ascent--- Butinarjeva.From parking saw couloir not filled step in last third bare..so at start and entry decided bypass and climb left...Conditions worst of three couloirs..sun hits right after sunrise so by 9am very soft...To rock step normal (snow sun-soft not much)..15m before step left to small couloir that ends quick then steep exposed. Ice axes only in moss,bushes or greenery available or dig out (MIX) zmeden

..only greenery still frozen EXCELLENT holds now..out of hard part or 15m above step lots new drifted snow punches thru to knees some to waist so snow exit (like us) good leg workout cool

...from step normal up lots greenery inside prob better...As said we bypassed step 5m left exposed..But still possible bypass right by step in small couloir (less exposed than ours still mix not full)) BUT WITH WEATHER NO VARIANT LONG.... mrk pogled

Then descent thru Vratca to parking...under 4hrs enjoyment nice morning used.. nasmeh

Župančičeva exit WATCH OUT trap right !!!

Župančičeva - entry - photographed from Pripravniška

Butinarjeva - rock jump is right - we two go left with pickaxes

left below is jump, next to mini grapca (better variant for bypass) and our tracks far right on exposed part

Butinarjeva - exit about 20m further left from normal route

path track (not quite accurate and mav jumps ke but sm-GPS watch)

(+6)

Planinec410. 04. 2015 15:13:17

Great pics! Well now nights warmer too :/ jezen

mpolo10. 04. 2015 19:44:18

Night still decently freezes conditions good only til first sun rays..then changes super fast... eek

and ice axes into nothing velik nasmeh

...yeah spring coming....early hour golden hour!!!! mrk pogled

(+4)

Janez Seliškar13. 04. 2015 08:02:52

Start at 6:00 at +3 on Vršič, route Župančičeva couloir in Little Mojstrovka. Snow just soft enough to go to couloir entry without crampons. Here first sun rays greet us and at entry to last third of route everything wet and soft. Some scratching on rocks unavoidable, then just walking up couloir (under threatening serac) to its edge.
Too warm!!

Towards the entrance to the initial part of the route

(+4)

jedriličar13. 04. 2015 09:07:28

Janez, nice ... but add to text you climbed Župančičeva... who doesn't know the couloir won't know where you were ... cheers Marijan mežikanje

(+1)

Janez Seliškar13. 04. 2015 09:41:58

Thanks for the tip, will be added!

ljubitelj gora13. 04. 2015 12:33:12

Today up Župančičeva couloir to Mala Mojstrovka, descent Pripravniška couloir, early start and still decent conditions in Žup.couloir, at Pripravniška soft at start, better lower, even lower punching thru.

at the beginning around 8-9 already quite soft

(+1)

Jovan Cukut13. 04. 2015 20:52:05

Couloirs in wall of Little Mojstrovka not to underestimate, not for everyone even in good conditions, advise against next days. Why not, bit in comments on link below. After yesterday's slip (fall) of unknown hiker in upper part of couloir.

https://picasaweb.google.com/113805105178377351223/ZupancicevaGrapaVMaliMojstrovki1204201502#

(+5)

ljubitelj gora13. 04. 2015 22:37:58

...someone really descended via Župančičeva.

Macesna25. 04. 2015 22:13:37

We went to Repov kot and from there up to the couloir Za vratam in Planjava. Conditions in it so-so: first promising up firm snow (crampons, ice axe), higher snow scarce and some nasty scree in between. Exited onto Movzina saddle, which is really interesting, after climbing through ragged terrain suddenly in totally different, softer environment – on grassy carpets guarded by four rocky figures. We were only sorry for the fog, which after promising sunny morning hindered orientation. Descended same way. Really beautiful spots on such vast mountain as Planjava.

Picturesque rock formations of the Za vratam gully

The upper part is more modest with snow.

On Movzina. Finally the fog cleared a bit and the ledges we had crossed became visible.

Movzina in the sun, taken about a week ago from Staničev vrh opposite.

(+2)

onsight25. 01. 2016 22:24:14

Today through Sestopna gully in Križ, then to the saddle and to Ledinski vrh and back via Savinjsko sedlo to Okrešelj. The gully is nicely filled, but high temperatures already noticeable, in my opinion won't be this fun much longer.

(+5)

Viper7. 02. 2016 18:51:20

Yesterday with friend climbed Grapa in Skuta. Right after entering gully first steeper 5m pitch with excellent ice/snow awaited us, brought us to slanting ledge leading left to gully. Up to here sinking to knees in places. In gully soon to first pitch really well formed and two higher similarly, to upper snowfield. On snowfield upper wall part decided left to pillar not right over snowfield to wall top. Just below pillar another quite tough pitch with rock climbing and one overhang. After that terrain improved bit and soon direct to top of Skuta.

Wall, entry to the route approximately in the middle of the picture

First jump that leads to the inclined ledge

Alternatively right across the snowfield, then where the wall is lowest over it to the top

(+16)

Tadej Bolta7. 02. 2016 19:02:22

Super, this. I went two weeks ago, but on the snowfield I chose the right variant...

Dr.ejči12. 02. 2016 21:32:57

Not some excess, but anyway... Yesterday on Staničev vrh... from Planjava edge, the snow height rose quickly, but in dry snow to the knees it wasn't hard to trample... approach gully to ridge offered some ass sliding and some "poking"... ridge itself more or less with "dry tool work"...

(+17)

ločanka13. 02. 2016 07:08:26

To me the achievement doesn't seem so modest, the photos are gorgeous anyway. Don't know exactly why, but really admired pic 4!

(+3)

Viper19. 03. 2016 18:37:55

This morning I started at 5.00 from Ljubelj to Zelenica and all the way to Rožičeva gully. From Zelenica hut to gully entrance I went over the upper slide, which was luckily somewhat trampled.
When I arrived at the gully entrance, I saw it was trampled further, then I geared up and started climbing. The initial chimney at the entrance is gone due to lots of snow, so just a walk, but not long, as soon a single steep short pitch awaits in the gully. The pitch is short but demanding with some ice/snow that is brittle and thin in places, so climb carefully.
From top of the pitch to NW ridge no more difficulties, just more or less walking up the gully.
From Begunjščica summit I descended via Central gully back to Zelenica hut.
Today Lenuhova gully was also quite climbed, as I saw.