Gulleys, icefalls, winter alpine ascents
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| sebanakis26. 01. 2010 16:45:45 |
otherwise 6 of each total, 16cm, 17cm, 13cm and longer for Abalakova.
That's it
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| Santi26. 01. 2010 17:40:13 |
Juš, you too, and of course Marko and Pavel for company
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| JusAvgustin26. 01. 2010 22:01:06 |
that's why it didn't wet us...
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| JusAvgustin29. 01. 2010 20:09:30 |
Winter climbing ascent on Jalovec
Temperature: Tamar -10, Jalovec -19; windchill factor -29
Conditions: track made from hut to Ozebnik, Ozebnik like groomed (hard base, no slush), further conditions change. Winter chimney ideal, normal winter approach partly crusty. Ridge trodden, traverse hard. Recommend two ice axes and climbing crampons (winter chimney), no need for belay yet. Winter chimney filled, no hooks, icy in places, super fun climb.
Walking time: Planica-Tamar 35 min
Tamar-Ozebnik 3h 30min
Ozebnik-Jalovec summit 50 min
Summit-Tamar 3h 5min
Times for info only.
 1
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| m're 130. 01. 2010 07:52:42 |
On Thursday in Koritarica with Jure. Climbed second icefall and lower part of enjoyable gully - per Kresal guidebook, maybe wrong. Second icefall nice, enjoyable gully less so. Some pics at:
http://www.turni-klub-gora.si/~frances/razmere/
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| sebanakis30. 01. 2010 09:21:51 |
at the end of that gully there's an icefall, but it really drags to h... Before that short icefall nicely formed, climbed yesterday, conditions improving too. Few more days 
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| JusAvgustin30. 01. 2010 10:32:38 |
central icefall formed for almost the whole month, now Rastlinca and right icefall in Tamar also formed, and behind cave, Lucifer looks promising, hope it doesn't collapse... Yesterday noticed some candles returning from Tamar to Planica, right side in Ciprnik slope (anyone know?), also wonder if Kramarca on Storžič formed? Tip: if you want ice climbing in Mlačca, do it morning, afternoon huge crowd... Lp
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| JusAvgustin30. 01. 2010 14:05:40 |
yes, difference is I was actually there when describing conditions, not copied from internet. all descriptions and conditions I experienced on site. thx for kramarca info, gotta try soon, but first the icefall...
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| sebanakis31. 01. 2010 12:02:27 |
alfa and omega for conditions:
www.slo-alp.com, here all action up there, see what they climb, though the smartest keep quiet where best conditions to avoid crowds
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| JusAvgustin2. 02. 2010 20:44:19 |
Today rest day, sledding from Planince, then drive to Gozd Martuljek, admire Spik group, then nice walk to Lucifer, right branch not formed at all, left branch not reached base yet. For entry cross icy slope to start of left Lucifer branch. Hope cold holds, though forecast different, tomorrow to Belca climbing.
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| spetovar9. 02. 2010 10:36:18 |
The weather was just right, but how was the ice?
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| JusAvgustin11. 02. 2010 09:04:01 |
great buttery ice, but at the end it was already running down, so we had to quickly finish climbing. but I have a feeling the candle still stands.
Regards
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| JusAvgustin15. 02. 2010 20:40:08 |
today climbed central icefall in Tamar, no crowds, all icefalls well formed, though ice too hard, great climbing, spindrift aplenty, avalanches too. track to icefalls done, sinking to waist in places, watch out exiting icefalls to ridge, blanket extremely unstable...
enjoyed: juš, anže, robi(thanks to both!)
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| JusAvgustin17. 02. 2010 09:13:33 |
yesterday rest day again, so went once more this year with friends to poke around Mlačca, artificial icefalls. Nice to see so many people ice climbing again. Not too crowded, though 12 ropes "hanging". Climbed 5 routes, then off to beer. Regards to all ice climbing enthusiasts and other forumers.
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| tol17. 02. 2010 23:43:51 |
Could join someone for ice climbing or anyone willing to share experiences?
Gear: two mountaineering axes and crampons, but not really climbing ones (cassin c12).
If someone shares experience, ready to buy beer or as agreed..
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| JusAvgustin18. 02. 2010 16:12:10 |
http://lednoplezanje.com/
Gear can be rented, icefalls artificial, but wait for cooling cuz yesterday when I climbed I was all wet. They just flow. Otherwise Mlačca gorge best for getting into this branch of alpinism.
Regards,
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