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| Janez Kastrevc4. 10. 2011 20:04:42 |
Hello!!!
This year I plan to do some winter tours (stol,kredarca,..) Next year maybe triglav, GG,..
I looked at Petzl crampons! I have climbing harness and self-belay kit from petzl so I'd like crampons and ice axe from petzl too, I'm satisfied with what I already have!
I'm interested what crampons you recommend, and what ice axe?? I have gojzarje for automatic crampons!! umm... I looked at some mountaineering ice axes, what's ideal ice axe length?? Do I need 2 ice axes or is one enough??
LP, janez
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| matejn4. 10. 2011 21:29:55 |
Hi!
Regarding crampons I'd recommend Petzl Sarken model. Really refined crampons.
As for ice axe, Aztarex or Sum´tec models would do, also from Petzl. Ice axe length depends a bit on height too, personally I wouldn't buy longer than 60cm.
LP
Matej
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| tol4. 10. 2011 21:55:59 |
crampons and ice axe aren't enough if you don't have the knowledge how to handle them. I suggest you attend a winter mountaineering course, where you'll learn everything you need for nice winter tours.
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| DarjaZaplotnik4. 10. 2011 22:31:02 |
I'd advise you to rent the gear first and as previous @tol wrote attend a winter technique course, where you'll get familiar not only with its use but also dangers in mountains in winter, movement in winter conditions, orientation, tour planning.
Then do some technically easier, undemanding tour in winter conditions. Best with more experienced mountaineer. And then decide about purchase.
If your purpose is walking (not climbing) definitely more recommendable ice axe with straight shaft (and adze), which is longer and thus more comfortable for walking. One is enough for start.
And maybe sensible to look at somewhat lighter models. Both ice axe and crampons. Latter maybe best to choose automatic ones, with rubber against snow buildup. Handling them is extremely easy, especially if putting on at uncomfortable place.
Regarding models you'll have to decide yourself. Depends a bit what fits your hands and feet.
lp d
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| žerovsk gams5. 10. 2011 20:35:45 |
I'm in dilemma too. I have LS trango shoes with evo gtx and plan to buy crampons. but since I'll soon start doing more alpinism it doesn't make sense to buy semi-automatic crampons. can you advise a bit. also how much do these boots hold in winter conditions
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| turbo6. 10. 2011 09:10:42 |
@Janez
crampons definitely automatic, with rubber against snow buildup. Ice axe around 60cm or 65cm, depending how tall you are.
Based on own experience I recommend buying crampons and ice axe thinking you'll with practice and mileage probably eventually want more demanding peaks, maybe some easier gully . . . so quality enough to last and suffice  possible more demanding needs. More or less in every mountaineering shop they'll advise you, and browse net a bit . . .
What about avalanche transceiver? Not only for ski tourers as many think. I always have transceiver and shovel with me, whether skiing or climbing some gully to a peak. Even when going to Kofce, Kriško or Ratitovec, I don't take them out of backpack.
Definitely agree that some course for movement in winter conditions would be more than excellent (if not necessary) base for winter mountaineering.
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| mancar6. 10. 2011 10:15:20 |
Hi,
maybe someone knows when/where some winter mountaineering course will be, route LJ-Kamnik-Kranj? Last year all were more in spring, I'd like to attend earlier..Thanks.
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| JusAvgustin6. 10. 2011 14:53:15 |
turbotu 100% right, to all who want to do alpinism I urgently recommend AŠ, it's worth spending a few "finčinkov" more on gear than you have, instead of being stingy and buying "scrap"
manca, I think there'll be before February Day of safer movement in mountains in winter conditions... again at Igu, best contact Jani personally... On GRZS website contact: Jani Bele
Lp, Juš
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| Zebdi6. 10. 2011 17:28:15 |
Here's what I'll say: classic crampons more than do their job, but once you tighten straps in cold, you'll really wish for automatic ones  But as written above; gear alone isn't a condition for safety, you need to know how to use it too. If all who wander in mountains in winter had avalanche triplet (transceiver, probe, shovel) and of course knew how to use it, many lives could be saved.
Agree with turbo's post, would just add that transceiver belongs on body not in backpack. No doubt it's obvious to author, but maybe awkwardly written and could mislead someone...
Lp,
P.
P.S. Knew I forgot something - GRZS for symbolic price on Pokljuka every year organizes Days of protection against snow avalanches. Definitely recommend!
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| turbo6. 10. 2011 17:53:47 |
@Zebdi, thanks
Of course transceiver is attached to body, under jacket, when on tour. Just wanted to emphasize that once snow is outside, without shovel and transceiver I go nowhere. Not on foot, not on skis. Knowledge how to use gear is precondition to tackle anything
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| JusAvgustin7. 10. 2011 16:38:25 |
if anyone is interested, Petzl Nomic ice tools, only until October 15th heavily discounted at Kibuba! Mine are still warm!
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| MatejaP3. 12. 2012 08:42:21 |
Above you mentioned the avalanche triplet which I myself have no experience using yet. What should I watch out for when buying? Maybe some useful advice from practice.
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| Zebdi3. 12. 2012 09:08:20 |
@MatejaP, maybe it wouldn't be bad if you attended the Avalanche Awareness Days, which GRZS organizes every year. There you have a great opportunity to familiarize yourself with the equipment and its use, and rescuers are happy to answer all questions
Otherwise quickly:
Among probes in my opinion there are no big differences; with the shovel it's very useful that it folds 90° (like a mattock), which comes in handy when determining snowpack stability (a dynamometer built into the handle of some shovels can help additionally).
For the beacon, the range and graphical display of direction/distance to the buried person (and ability to display multiple buried, though it's a question how often useful in practice) were most important to me personally. When I was buying, I chose between Pieps DSP, Ortovox S1 and Barryvox (Mammut) Pulse - I chose the latter, and it's great.
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| Janez Seliškar3. 12. 2012 10:59:42 |
MatejaP, buy as a set, for serious digging I recommend aluminum shovel. The shovel must have the option to switch to mattock!
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| DD3. 12. 2012 12:53:53 |
Hi. One experience buying avalanche triplet:
namely in Hervis they have avalanche triplets too, wait for 40% sale which you get as voucher only it came 350 euros and then I got voucher with certain amount and went back right away, of course you have to spend it fully and so multiple times same day I left with tons of gear, some of which sold online and got those 350 euros back, avalanche triplet is this:
http://www.kibuba.com/index.php?&cID=5&scID=188&pID=5554
lp
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| MatejaP4. 12. 2012 20:00:21 |
Thanks to everyone for the answers. I've already chosen them as a set, as instructor Andrej advised me. If the snow doesn't scare us, I'll test it in practice on Saturday, what do you say, Janez? I also plan to attend the training at Igu, since I'm more of a beginner in winter conditions and all the information will be welcome.
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| Janez Seliškar4. 12. 2012 20:24:47 |
MatejaP, definitely every training is useful.
I assume that on Saturday, given the forecasted snow amounts, we'll easily test the avalanche triplet in practice.
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| jezičnik6. 12. 2012 09:09:09 |
I have one question. For the first time in life my wife and I will go on a tour also in winter, but we don't plan high mountains and climbing not our thing, more hiking. Still wanted to buy crampons. Problem is I have mountaineering boots size 51. Interested how it is with crampons for such boots, if anyone has experience. Saw that with automatic crampons no size choice, so universal for all sizes? Up to which size usable? Do boots for these crampons need to be special?
What about those more ordinary crampons that just allow walking on frozen surface (e.g. Ice track or Mount track or Snowline spikes)? Max size 48, can they stretch to 51 or not?
Happy for any experience and opinion.
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| Janez Seliškar6. 12. 2012 09:44:40 |
Given that you have really large boot size, you'll have to order sufficiently long connecting plate between front and rear part of crampon. Any locksmith can make you that longer plate.
Applies to classic and semi-automatic crampons.
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