Franz-Josefs-Hohe - Großglockner

Access to the starting point:
Pass through the Karavanke Tunnel past Spittal and on to Lienz, but only as far as Molbrucke. Continue following the signs for the Alpine road to Grossglockner. When you reach the mountain village of Heiligenblut (holy blod), 1336 m high, you only have 17 km of the Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse, the most famous Alpine panorama road. The toll for this road is €26 per car (except at night until 5 a. m. ). The road is open from May to October or depending on snow conditions.
More information at:http://www. grossglockner. at/en/hochalpenstrasse

Path description:
Park in the garages at the edge of the Pastirica/Pasterze glacier at the best viewpoint Franz-Josefs-Höhe 2369 m high, from where you can see your way all the way to Kleine Grossglockner. If you get there at night or the day before, it's a good idea to bring a sleeping bag and an armaflex, as you can sleep in the garages for emergency sleeping. The Grossglockner Gletscherbahn has been running to the Pastiritz/Pasterze glacier since 1963. From a height of 2356m, the 212m-long conduit leads 144m down to the edge of the glacier.
Our ascent starts directly from the garages through one of the five tunnels to the Hofmannhutte hut 2444m high. The tunnels were built because the old trail-way was carried away by an avalanche in several places and the trail was closed for several years. The tunnels are a lot of fun. It is reminiscent of Gardaland. Once through the last tunnel, we soon see the Hofmannhutte hut on the left, which we pass. The hut is in a bad state of repair and has therefore been closed and occupied by marmots for several years. Passing the hut, we descend about 200 m to the Pastirica/Pasterze glacier. Cross the glacier at right angles to the slope you came down. When crossing the glacier, it is necessary to watch out for cracks in the glacier, as they can be quite wide and of unknown depth. The glacier is up to 160 m thick. In the event of fog, orientation on the glacier is very difficult. If, on the other hand, you do not see coloured markings on the rocks or marked stakes, go down a little at first, because when crossing the glacier you usually go a little to the right. If there are no markings after 100 metres, repeat the process upwards and you will certainly find the markings. The path then climbs steeply up the ridge to a place called Fruhstuchsplatz, where you take a few steps down the ridge to the left. Here begins the long climb over the Hofmannskess glacier to the Erzherzog-Johann-Hutte (Adlersruhe-Eagle's Rest) hut at 3454 m. The lower part of the trail goes to the left, the upper part up and to the right to the hut. To the right you can go: 1. on the glacier below the intermediate rock ridge. 2. continue up the glacier as far as the edge of the upper ridge, where the path joins the path from the Salmhütte hut on the south side. Continue right along the steel cable. Soon we have to cross a rocky intermediate ridge. Whereupon the paths merge and the hut is within easy reach. Orientation is easy on the Hofmannskess glacier in fine weather, but very difficult or impossible in fog. From the Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte hut (open from May to the end of September), continue along the snow slope immediately after the hut. After a steep snow slope you climb up to the Sattele (saddle) 3680 m high, where the snow slope ends. There is usually not much snow further on in the summer months, so this part of the climb is more on rock than on snow. First, climb the steep exposed ridge to Kleine Grossglockner 3783 m high and descend a little lower over it to the very narrow Glockner-scharte. There is only rom for one person to pass, so there are often long jams at this point. There is only a steep climb of about 50 m via the Steila Platten to the top of the Grossglockner. We are rewarded with views of the French and Swiss Alps, the Italian Dolomites, the Julian Alps and the High Tauern.
The belays over Kleine Grossglockner and to the summit are steel bars and rings with rungs, so with the right equipment there is no problem at belaying. We also need equipment for walking in a harness. The climb requires some mountaineering skills and experience. If you don't have any, it is best to climb with a guide or an experienced climber.
We descend following the route of ascent. Once you have descended to the Pastirica/Pasterze glacier, you can go straight down the glacier to the bottom station of the cog railway, take it to the garages or climb on foot.

On the way: Koča Hofmannshütte (2444m), Koča Erzherzog-Johann-Hutte (3454m), Kleine Grossglockner (3783m)

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