Description:
03-09-2006: Ascent of Pelmo from my 2006 video archive.
Monte Pelmo is an imposing massif that closes Val di Zoldo to the north and rises astride Val Fiorentina and Boite valley. It is 3,168 m high (recently remeasured at 3,159 m) and flanked to the west by a lower but no less imposing core (Pelmetto, 2,990 m), separated by the Fisura gullies. Its peculiar appearance, represented by two monoliths, is a distinctive feature of this mountain, known locally as “al caregon de’l Padreterno”, “God's throne”, due to the wide glacial cirque depression visible from its eastern side, resembling a chair. The only articulation of the mountain is given by the branching of Crode di Forca Rossa (2,784 m) and Cime di Val d’Arcia (2,626 m), descending towards Boite valley and Cadore. Many do not know that Monte Pelmo was the first Dolomite peak to be climbed: on September 19, 1857, Englishman John Ball reached the summit, passing through what was later called Ball ledge. He was accompanied by a local guide who did not reach the top. Ball later wrote that he chose Pelmo for his first climb because it seemed the most beautiful among all the Dolomite mountains he had seen. Pelmetto was instead reached in 1896 by guides Clemente Callegari (aka Battistrada) and Angelo Panciera (aka Mago). Alpine access to the summit is possible from Rifugio Venezia along Ball ledge and the steep scree, following the demanding and exciting normal route. From its summit, most of the Dolomite arc mountains are visible, among the most famous Antelao (3,264 m), Lastoi de Formin (2,657 m), Cernera group (2,657 m), Tofane (3,244 m), Croda da Lago (2,701 m), Marmolada (3,343 m) and Civetta (3,220 m), as well as Sorapis (1,085 m) and Cristallo (3,221 m). Also visible is the Cortina basin, Zoldo and Selva di Cadore valleys, as well as the Mondeval and Giau plateaus.
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Video length: 35:06