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Mountain ranges / Karawanks / Mittagskogel/Kepa / Untergreuth - Mittagskogel/Kepa (path on NE ridge)

Untergreuth - Mittagskogel/Kepa (path on NE ridge)

Starting point: Untergreuth (650 m)
Name of path: path on NE ridge
Time of walking: 4 h
Difficulty: very difficult unmarked way
Altitude difference: 1493 m
Altitude difference po putu: 1550 m
Map: Julijske Alpe - vzhodni del. 1 : 50.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, ice axe, crampons
Author: klm
Views: 12.535
 2 people like this post
Number of pictures: 0
Number of comments: 5
Access to the starting point:
We go through the Karavanke tunnel and from there along the regional road to Bexstein / Finkenstein. A few 100 m before Ločany / Latschach, 639 m turn left onto the local road leading to the village of Ratenče, the local road leading to Lower Ruth / Untergreuth branches off on the left.
Path description:
From Spodnje Rut, signpost numbers 681 and 680 direct you south-west past the Martinihof guesthouse (marked on Slovenian maps with the Slovenian name Hoja) and from there along route 681 past the Kobvar homestead to a steep woded rise, descending into the gorge of the Borovnica stream. Here, the forest road leading to the hut is joined from the right, but it is closed to traffic by a gate. This area is called Iljčev rut. From here on, you can either follow the road or the path marked No 680 (also KWW - No 603), which runs along the road to the hut, with a parallel path running a little to the left of it. This avoids the many bends in the road and is much more pleasant and at the same time a shorter access. After a 2 h walk, you reach Berta's hut / Bertahütte, 1527 m, and in the immediate vicinity is the Hut under the Kepa / Mittagskogelhütte.
From the hut, descend to the Borovščica saddle. There, leave the marked trail and turn right onto an unmarked path which climbs quite steeply through the forest to a narrow ridge of rocks. This is quite exposed at the start (grade II), but three rungs help us to belaying. Once the key part is climbed, the slope flattens out for a while and the problems are over for the moment. The ascent continues on a path that winds between the dwarf pines, which is quickly passed through, and then! followed by a steep climb over scoriaceous boulders until you reach a rockier world. The rock is more or less solid and quite broken, with red arrows and red dots to help you find the easiest passages. We quickly progress to the summit, where the second cross stands. From there, we climb to the main summit along a clearly visible path on the left side of the ridge (on map Julian Alps - eastern part, the path is marked as marked, although it is considered unmarked, despite the above-mentioned markings, which make it easier to find the crossing points. The error has been corrected in Sidarte's map Julian Alps, where it is correctly marked).
zemljovid puta - Mittagskogel/Kepa
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Discussion about the trail Untergreuth - Mittagskogel/Kepa (path on NE ridge)
Matjaz_6515. 08. 2013
seveda gre za severovzhodni greben oz. raz mežikanje

še nekaj mojih fotk nasmeh
klm17. 07. 2014
Tako je. Upam, da administrator popravi naslov.
Behemot26. 07. 2015
Ta teden sem sam plezal SV greben. Na najtežjem mestu (2 kratka raztežaja) je sedaj že 9 klinov od tega 3 svedrovci na varovališčih in 6 navadnih klinov. Lokacije klinov. Na začetku strme stene je navadni klin, nato v najstrmejšem delu tik nad najtežjim prestopom v levo navadni klin in 2 m višje na polici svedrovec (možno varovališče). Sledi prehod po desni strani mimo luske, kjer je zabit obročkar. V škrbini 5 m za lusko spet urejeno varovališče iz dveh svedrovcev. Sledi 15 metrska prečka v levo (3 navadni klini) in bistvenih težav je konec. V sami smeri v zgornji tretjini sem še našel eden navadni klin.
Behemot28. 10. 2019
Še nekaj bi poudaril glede zahtevnosti. SV greben Kepe spada bolj v kategorijo lažjih alpinističnih smeri kot pa zelo zahtevnih neoznačenih poti. Zgoraj opisano najtežje mesto v grebenu namreč v alpinistični literaturi nosi UIAA oceno II+ ker ni ravno mačji kašelj za nevešče plezanja po odprti steni brez varovanja z vrvjo.
dprapr6. 08. 2022 16:05:19
Zagotovo je tam II+.
Prečka v levo pa tudi ni za vsakogar brez varovanja.
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