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Mountain ranges / Karawanks / Vertatscha/Vrtača / Tinčkova koča - Vertatscha/Vrtača (on NE ridge)

Tinčkova koča - Vertatscha/Vrtača (on NE ridge)

Starting point: Tinčkova koča (1070 m)
Lat/Lon: 46,4228°N 14,1991°E
Name of path: on NE ridge
Time of walking: 4 h
Difficulty: rock climbing ascent
Altitude difference: 1111 m
Altitude difference po putu: 1111 m
Map: Stol in Begunjščica 1:25000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, lamp
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, ice axe, crampons, lamp
Author: JusAvgustin
Views: 12.717
 4 people like this post
Number of pictures: 13
Number of comments: 1
Access to the starting point:
From the Ljubljana - Jesenice motorway, take the Lesce exit and follow the road towards Žirovnica and Jesenice. After a few km of driving, you will come to a crossroads where the road to Žirovnica and Moste turns right (from Jesenice, left). Just a few metres further, at the next crossroads, turn left into Moste (right into Žirovnica). Continue past the memorial to the fallen fighters, where the road starts to climb uphill under the railway line. At the top of the hill, turn right (at the Vila Karin sign) and we continue towards Završniškem jezero and Valvasor's home. The road then bends and leads to a crossroads where the road to Valvasor's home branches off to the left, and we continue straight ahead on the initially still asphalted road. The road soon becomes macadam, and we follow it for about 5 km to a parking area near Tinčko's hut. The road is often in quite bad condition in the upper part, so we can park earlier, say at the end of mountain pasture at Žaga, where the road turns into the woods again, which extends our journey by 15 minutes.
Path description:
From Tinček's hut, follow the marked trail to Dom pri izviru Završnice, and from there continue along the marked trail to Zelenica. When 5 minutes from Dom pri izviru Završnice the valley widens and flattens, turn left and through the forest and dwarf pines you will reach the marked trail Zelenica - Stol. Follow it in the direction of Stol to the right fork of the path up through dwarf pines into cirque Dry dwarf pines. Continue along the path past the boulders to the cirque pinch. At the saddle Žleb, head left and cross under the wall Pautz to the notch between Pautz and Vrtača. After some initial scrambling, retreat a little to the left, then follow the ridge to reach the base of the wall. Climb a distinct ridge/crack to the right up to the barrier. Here the most difficult part awaits us, we climb straight up from the beam along the larger rock block on our right (no good holds for the left hand anyway) and above it we reach the ridge edge upwards to the left on some easier scrambling. (manic) Upwards we have a few difficult metres of very steep and crumbly climbing (never too far to the right), and above the threshold the main problems are over.
In the less steep world to the right upwards, we reach more compact rock and after a short steep jump we climb to the edge. On the edge (harder, retreat a little to the left at the bottom) or to the right of it (more undercut), you soon reach the summit shoulder. There is an easier but crumbly ridge finish to the top of Vertatscha.
Difficulties are grade II(-III)
The route is NOT equipped.
zemljovid puta - Vertatscha/Vrtača
On the way: Dom pri izviru Završnice (1425m), Pautz/Zelenjak (2024m), Selenitza/Palec (2026m)
We recommend: trips from the same starting point, similar trips, panorama, Inscription book
Tinčkova koča  - Vertatscha/Vrtača1
Tinčkova koča  - Vertatscha/Vrtača2
Tinčkova koča  - Vertatscha/Vrtača3
Tinčkova koča  - Vertatscha/Vrtača4
Tinčkova koča  - Vertatscha/Vrtača5
Tinčkova koča  - Vertatscha/Vrtača6
Tinčkova koča  - Vertatscha/Vrtača7
Tinčkova koča  - Vertatscha/Vrtača8
Tinčkova koča  - Vertatscha/Vrtača9
Tinčkova koča  - Vertatscha/Vrtača10
Tinčkova koča  - Vertatscha/Vrtača11
Tinčkova koča  - Vertatscha/Vrtača12
Tinčkova koča  - Vertatscha/Vrtača13
Discussion about the trail Tinčkova koča - Vertatscha/Vrtača (on NE ridge)
JusAvgustin24. 08. 2013
se opravičujem za kvaliteto slik, kmalu naredim spet to turo, tokrat z boljšim fotoaparatom!

LP, Jušmežikanje
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