Passo Pordoi - Piz Boe (Via Ferrata Cesare Piazzetta)
Starting point: Passo Pordoi (2239 m)
| Lat/Lon: | 46,488°N 11,8113°E |
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Name of path: Via Ferrata Cesare Piazzetta
Time of walking: 3 h 30 min
Difficulty: extremely difficult marked way
Ferata: D
Altitude difference: 913 m
Altitude difference po putu: 950 m
Map: Tabacco 7
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, self belay set
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, self belay set, ice axe, crampons
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Access to the starting point:
First, drive to Cortina d'Ampezzo (you can get here via Border crossing Rateče or Predel to Trbiž / Tarvisio and then take the motorway towards Udine to the Tolmezzo exit. From Tolmezzo, follow the road towards Ampezzo and the Passo della Mauria mountain pass. The road then descends and leads to a crossroads where you turn left (possibly right) towards Cortina d'Ampezzo. At all subsequent junctions, follow the signs for Cortina d'Ampezzo.
In Cortina d'Ampezzo, follow the signs for the Passo di Falzarego Alpine pass. At this pass, you reach a crossroads where you follow the road on the left towards Marmolada and the village of Arabba (Alta Badia on the right). The road descends for some time before reaching a crossroads where you continue on the right towards Passo Pordoi (Marmolada on the left). Follow the road, which is relatively wide and ascending, all the way to the pass, where you park in a large parking lot.
Access from Primorska: Take the motorway towards Padua, but only as far as the motorway junction, where you continue towards Veneto and Belluno. Near Belluno, the motorway ends and we follow the road towards Belluno, where we turn right at a major junction towards Agordo. From there, follow the signs for Arabba and the Passo Pordoi Alpine pass, which is also the starting point of our tour.
Path description:
From the parking lot, first cross the road carefully and then take route No 627 (direction Piz Boe). The path first climbs slightly steeper over a grassy slope, then flattens out and leads to a rockier world. The path then turns slightly to the left and starts climbing steeply again. After a few minutes of further walking, we finally leave the grassy slopes and the path turns into a rough world, over which we climb on a fairly wide path. The path once again lies higher up and leads to a marked crossroads.
Continue right along route 626, following the signs for 'Via Ferrata C. Piazzetta', and straight ahead towards the Rifugio Forcella Pordoi. From the crossroads, the path then crosses the slopes below the steep cliffs to the east for some time in gentle ascents and descents. Later, the path joins from the right, passing the monuments to the First and Second World Wars. From the crossroads, it is only a short climb to the climbing section of the route.
When entering the climbing part of the route, be sure to wear a helmet and a self-protection kit, and it is highly recommended to wear climbing gloves. The route becomes extremely difficult from the very beginning and ascends up a vertical wall using only a rope. In a few places, the wall is even slightly overhanging, but there are very few steps and even those are already quite "slick" due to the number of climbers.
We continue climbing up the vertical wall for quite some time, occasionally crossing the wall to the left and right. There is a short overhang where we have the help of iron steps, and a very short ladder later on in the vertical wall. The path then crosses to the left again and then climbs vertically to a slightly wider ledge where you can rest for a while.
From the ledge there is a vertical climb through a slightly awkward narrow passage, and then the route becomes slightly less difficult. The path then crosses a suspension bridge from which there is a nice view of the initial most challenging part of the route. From the bridge onwards, we then start to climb up a slightly less steep slope along the steel cable. This path then leads to the last challenging vertical climb. In front of the last wall there is also a small emergency shelter (a small hole carved in the rock) where you can take refuge in case of a storm. The last vertical wall can also be avoided on the left-hand side, but this route is quite crumbly.
The path becomes less steep, but in some places it is not protected, so considerable caution is still needed.
Later, we join the 638 route and then it is just a climb up the easy slope to the Piz Boe summit.
The Via Ferrata Cesare Piazzetta to Piz Boe is extremely difficult and only suitable for the most skilled mountaineers with sufficient strength in their arms and the obligatory self-belaying. It is described by many as the most difficult protected route in the whole of the Dolomites.
Descend the easy path past the Rifugio Forcella Pordoi hut.
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Discussion about the trail Passo Pordoi - Piz Boe (Via Ferrata Cesare Piazzetta)
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| jedriličar3. 08. 2010 |
Jučer napravili opisanu ferratu (hvala autoru na slikama i opisu, izvrsna priprema uspona). Cepin i dereze nepotrebni, makar smo ih nosili sa sobom. Prilaz ferrati malo predug, oko 1,30 h, s time da smo parkirali auto kod spomenika-groblja, tako da smo uštedili oko pola sata hoda. Ferrata: šta da se kaže, jedna od težih koju sam penjao, uvodni dio do prve police jako zahtjevan, okomit, sa nekoliko previsnih dijelova, stijena uglavnom izlizana i ispolirana, tako da je uz sve moje penjačko iskustvo bilo dosta naporno (recimo da je taj uvodni dio jedna dobra alpska petica po težini), treži dosta snage u rukama. Dalje je ferrata ok, puno lakša, ima par detalja kao recimo jedan kaminčić gdje treba ranac vući ispod sebe, ili mostić koji je malo kllimav, ali ništa posebno. Vrijeme ferrate oko 2 sata i još pola sata za uspon na vrh. Silaz po via normale do koče Forcela di Pordoi pa uspon na Sas Pordoi i silaz sa gondolskom žičarom (cijena 6,70 Eur), cca 1 sat. Od gondole do auta još cca pola sata hoda. Uglavno, fenomenalna tura, nije sa svakoga. Mi smo bili prvi na ferrati ujutro, nakon nas je došlo oko dvadesetak ljudi u ferratu, a na vrhu ih se pojavilo svega nekoliko, što znači da su mnogi odustali na samom ulazu koji je i najzahtjevniji. Preporučam svakome tko se osjeća sposoban i nema problema sa visinom (ferrata je prilično prozračna ...).
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| Kili0231. 07. 2016 |
Opisu ni kaj dodati, vse drzi, spodnji, v nekaterih delih rahlo previsni del vse od vstopa zahteva moc v rokah, tisto malo stopov ki so, so vecinomo mali in precej gladki, v kljucnih delih pa je namescenih ravno dovolj varoval, ocena D, ki se pa v nekaterih delih spogleduje z E.
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| A26. 08. 2020 |
Čez vikend opravili vzpon. Glede na opis in prebrane bloge sem se odpravil z velikim spoštovanjem. Opis drži super, začetnih 100m+ je najtežjih, stope zlizane, potrebno veliko moči v rokah. Po širši polički je zahteven navpičen vzpon potem pa lažje naprej. na zadnjem zahtevnem delu je izpuljen klin.
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| don kihott27. 08. 2020 |
Spogledovanja z oceno E ni nikjer,ferata je po težavnosti primerljiva z Cjajnikom...V opisih nekateri malo pretiravate.. 
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