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Mountain ranges / Julian Alps / Jalovec / Loška Koritnica - Jalovec (via zavetišče pod Špičkom)

Loška Koritnica - Jalovec (via zavetišče pod Špičkom)

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Starting point: Loška Koritnica (780 m)
Lat/Lon: 46,4147°N 13,6295°E
Destination: Jalovec (2645 m)
Name of path: via zavetišče pod Špičkom
Time of walking: 7 h 30 min
Difficulty: very difficult marked way
Altitude difference: 1865 m
Altitude difference po putu: 2100 m
Map: Julijske Alpe - zahodni del 1:50.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, self belay set
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, self belay set, ice axe, crampons
Views: 19.845
 3 people like this post
Number of pictures: 94
Number of comments: 16
Access to the starting point:
From Bovec, drive towards the Predel border crossing. In the village Log pod Mangartom, just after the bridge over the Predilnica River, turn right in the direction of Koritnica. First an asphalted then a macadam road leads quickly to a parking lot at the beginning of the entrance to the central part of the TNP.
Path description:
Take the road on the right, which is closed with a barrier. The road passes close to the stream at all times and crosses it several times. Towards the end, the road becomes narrower and narrower and leads us past a few houses to a crossroads. Turn slightly to the right onto the footpath marked Jalovec, Pod Špičkom, Mangrt (to the left Mountain pasture Brdo). The path then goes into the forest and soon leads to a marked crossroads. Continue to the right after the Zavetišče pod Špičkom markings, and to the left the path leads to Kotovo sedlo and Mangart.
The path soon leads to a stream, which you must cross, and then climb for a short distance through a sparse forest. There is a climb up a grassy slope and a short climb on scree to enter the climbing part of the route.
When you enter the wall, first climb up to the left along a small rope. The route soon becomes steeper and climbs almost vertically along the steel cable several times with the help of a number of wedges. Continuing up the steep slope with the help of the steel cables, the path then turns slightly to the right and soon leads into the forest, where the steepness eases a little. From the forest, the path leads to a slope covered with shrubs and tall grass. The scrub then ends and the climb up the valley becomes more and more beautiful. The path also opens up beautiful views towards Mangart, Jalovec and the precipitous Plešivec cliffs below which we are climbing. In the last part, the valley turns slightly to the right and there is a climb on scree to the Čez Brežice saddle.
At the saddle, continue left to where the inscription on the rock "Špička" directs you. Initially, we climb up along the steel cable left, and then the path leads us to a grassy slope on which we climb for some time. When you reach the base of the Mali Ozebnik wall, continue to the right and cross the precipitous slopes at a slight incline along the rope. In a few places there is also a lot of rubble on the path, so extra caution is needed. The trail then leads to a short, very difficult part of the trail. With the help of a rope and a few pegs, climb vertically and then cross the vertical slope to the right for a few metres. The path then climbs up a slightly less steep but unprotected slope, followed by a climb up a very rough slope to the stumps behind the Castle. From the stumps, we descend on scree below the walls of Pelc Peak above Klonice (2442m). The path then leads us through a broken world, past numerous rocks and boulders. In the last part, the path turns to the left and after a short descent leads us to the Shelter under Špičko.
From here, continue right slightly down towards Jalovec, past a rock with an interesting inscription to enter the more difficult part of the trail. The path climbs up the initially relatively well protected rock ridge, and then climbs steeply up the wall of the lesser-known Veliki Ozebnik. The steepness then gradually eases and the path turns slightly to the right, where it crosses the steep and slip-prone slopes below Veliki Ozebnik. The path on this part is less well protected and very exposed to falling rocks (helmet is compulsory). The path onwards crosses an even shorter exposed ravine and leads us into a softer world of grasses. The way forward descends gently and leads us to the high mountain plain called Jezerce. There is a short climb and the path from the Jalovška notch joins us from the right. The path then climbs steeply again and, with a some fixed safety gear, leads us along a path that is exposed in places to the main ridge of Jalovec. Next, we climb along a narrow and sometimes very exposed ridge on a path that leads us higher up to a place where the path from Kotov saddle joins us from the left. Continue straight ahead and the scenic ridge path quickly leads to the top of Jalovec.
zemljovid puta - Jalovec
On the way: Čez Brežice (1980m), Škrbina za Gradom (2277m), Zavetišče pod Špičkom mountain hut (2064m)
We recommend: trips from the same starting point, similar trips, panorama, Inscription book
Pictures:
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Discussion about the trail Loška Koritnica - Jalovec (via zavetišče pod Špičkom)
darinka425. 08. 2019
Je kdo hodil letos do Špička? Ali je uporaba samovarovalnega kompleta priporočljiva?
darinka424. 08. 2020
V soboto smo iz Loške Koritnice krenili čez sedlo Brežice in čez Škrbino za Gradom do Špička. Varovala so v redu. Le na enem delu je jeklenica bolj tanka. Plezalni del je kar strm. Vsi štirje smo uporabljali samovarovalni komplet. Na sedlu Brežice so se pričeli zbirati oblaki. V nadaljevanju je veliko grušča na poti . Zatorej pazljivo . In kakšen klin je poškodovan. Sicer je napisal nekdo, ki je lani pomagal obnavljati kline in jeklenice , da jih poškodujejo skale, ki so nastavljene tanm v žlebu. Sicer zelo lepa pot in tura.
trdi26. 08. 2020
A se da mogoče to steno na sliki 59 obhoditi po levi strani po melišču?
padez26. 08. 2020
Ne se na da ker je zgoraj v zlebu aktiven podor. To mesto se da preckati z veliko previdnosti, vzpon cez skok pa je zavarovan z jeklenico ter zelo razclenjen in opremljen z klini.
trdi27. 08. 2020
Hvala za informacije
lojze18251. 08. 2021 14:48:25
V petek, 30.7., na Jalovec po opisani poti. Vse prehodno brez posebnosti, v spodnjem delu obrezano grmičevje, pohvala markacistom/lovcem. Sestop čez kotovo sedlo proti loški koritnici tudi normalno prehoden.
Krt4n10. 08. 2021 04:18:46
Lojze hvala!
kovivo19. 01. 2023 09:16:10
Pozdravljam iz Slovaške. Ten okrog na Jalovec želimo iti z kamaratmi v poletju.
Ali prosim možete priporočiti smer:
Je bolje iti - Loška Koritnica -> Čez Brežice -> Zavetišče pod Špičkom -> Jalovec -> Kotovo sedlo -> Loška Koritnica
ali Loška Koritnica -> Kotovo sedlo -> Jalovec -> Zavetišče pod Špičkom -> Čez Brežice -> Loška Koritnica

Hvala lepa!
djimuzl19. 01. 2023 15:02:24
Mogoče raje 1. smer - pri sedlu Čez Brežice se mi zdi vzpon primernejši od spusta.
darinka419. 01. 2023 16:38:45
Ja sam od sedla Brežice do Škrbine za Gradom je kar zahteven vzpon. Nekaj zajl manjka. Tam je potrebna previdnost.
jax19. 01. 2023 17:46:28
Prva smer je primernejša, je več zahtevnejšega sveta v vzponu, pa odpade vzpon od Špičke na Škrbino za gradom. Je pa treba paziti tudi v sestopu, jasno.
B219. 01. 2023 23:38:36
Mislim, da je tisti vzpon iz Loske koritnice proti sedlu Cez Brezice v delu cez steno najbolj zahteven. Od sedla do Skrbine pa ne manjka nobena jeklenica, je pa zahteven tisti dostop tik pred skokom in sam skok ter spust po meliscu na drugi strani skrbine. Je pa ta smer primernejsa za vzpon kot za sestop.
kovivo20. 01. 2023 13:21:15

Hvala vsem za priporočila!
darinka420. 01. 2023 20:31:57
Kar se spomnim smo tam hodili z Loškre Koritnice svgusta 2020. Do škrbine za Gradom. Spomnim se , da smo v enem delu imeli težave . Čez en prehod , kjer je manjkal kos zajle in klin. Ne spomnim se točno. Mogoče so potem popravili. Tudi krušljivo je bilo do škrbine.
B220. 01. 2023 20:57:48
Darinka,o tem si ze pisala in jaz sem ti napisal, da je tisto mesto(skok) bilo sanirano in jeklenica in klin na svojem mestu. Sicer se je tisti skok dal preplezati tudi brez sanacije kljub poskodbi.Je pa tik pred tistim skokom kakih pet metrov dolga gladka plosca posuta z drobirjem in tam je kar nekaj, sicer zvitih klinov, ki pa so uporabni za prehod te kriticne zadeve. Tako je in tako bo tudi ostalo. Pot je uporabna, je zelo zahtevna, ne manjkajo nobene jeklenice niti klini. Sicer pa pocakajmo, ko sneg skopni bomo videli. Jeseni je bilo vse v redu. Letos je leto 2023 ti pa pises o letu 2020... Naj dodam se to, da je bilo po tvojem obisku dodanih poleg obstojecih se kar nekaj metrov jeklenice. Kar veselo na pot, seveda z ustrezno opremo...
darinka423. 01. 2023 08:49:30
Ha ha ko prideš v leta marsikaj pozabiš. nasmeh Bom pa letos preverila to pot. Če mi bo dano.
     
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