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Viš - NW gully

Tinca512. 08. 2017 21:13:19

Well, if you look at the pics closely, you'll find a woman too velik nasmeh

magacoprnon13. 08. 2017 01:35:55

@ rinča: Can you tell the title of your guidebook? Thanks

rinča13. 08. 2017 11:23:52

Giulie verticali, bought years ago in Tarvisio. Covers 50 routes from Montaz, Vis, Beli Potok, Kanin...

(+1)

redbull9. 09. 2018 21:25:53

NW Ridge (09.09.18)

We went past Bivacco Mazzeni along the S.Alp.C.Chersi path and at the second grassy platform the route starts. The weather was fantastic and for this route good visibility is needed. Almost obligatory to have the route sketch which is Matej's first photo. Had some of his and Drago's pics. Predecessors said enough about the route, otherwise ways are findable. Nowhere do you need to go too far right, the upper towers show the way to the exit window right of them, good to know. Last 150m to the window a bit harder III (a bit crumbly), below that surely no more than II. Above the window along the ledge and ridge to the summit. Went to the cross or monument just placed the day before for Igor. Very nice. Descended via Anita Goitan towards Pellarini. The scree under Trbiška Škrbina and right of it ever more treacherous. Next to magnificent Via Dogne on Montaz can put this NW beside it. Difficulty similar, maybe upper part of NW ridge a bit more crumbly.

Good luck

second grassy platform from the direction of b. Majcna

V. Nabojs and its saddle - there will still be time for it

(+5)

lijaneja9. 09. 2018 21:47:28

Is it possible this is that path? Today I had it in sight several times.

(+1)

redbull9. 09. 2018 22:00:40

If you mean that scree gully, then no. That's the ascent to Mojzesova Škrbina, popular in winter. The route is not visible from here, hidden behind the rock.
For the dashed line behind the rock that you see. Drago, correct me if something is wrong.

(+1)

lijaneja9. 09. 2018 22:06:29

Dejan, in the lower part, in the grass, there is a noticeable path several times. Here I thought you had approached.

redbull9. 09. 2018 22:08:49

no, that's the entry to the scree part and then to Mojzes. Tone, you have to try it and Drago will surely be up for the action to visit it again

lijaneja9. 09. 2018 22:10:52

Ah, I don't know if I can still manage that.

redbull9. 09. 2018 22:12:30

Don't worry, you can do it

redbull17. 08. 2019 22:43:38

Via Nord and NW couloir on Viš (17.08.19)

After Via Nord to Nabois saddle and then on path S.C.A.Chersi to about halfway. Head upwards and with some easy climbing arrive at wide ledge that goes far left. From here upwards, here and there cairns guide us. I know the route, so no problems. Difficulty is of course greater than Via Nord to Nabois. Here everything revolves around II, or III. Rock is good. Exit through beautiful window, caution due to slipperiness. Along ledge to the left to summit, before that long break (read: snack, drinking Red Bull nasmeh

). Descent via North-East, NE debris. This route is quite visited, especially since newly equipped here and there with hanger or new cable. In old times there was "much less". Past Pellarini to Saisera Baths.

(+6)

blue3305. 11. 2019 13:02:41

Northwest couloir - Northwest Face on Viš - Jof Fuart.

Date 21/9/2019 - 22/9/2019

Start from Saisera late afternoon. Night in Mazzeni bivouac in upper Spranja. (door found open and interior untidy).

Second day start early morning to Nabojs saddle, before Studence glacier right into rocks. Crossed wide ledge (belay on two bolts). Followed grooves a few meters right (old peg below). Through natural window belayed with 30-meter rope due to fresh rockfall and very crumbly ground. To summit on ledges.

To valley: ferrata to Mojzes notch, ascent to Cime Castrein, descent to notch of front Spranja (lavinal dell'orso), descent along notch towards Mazzeni bivouac and then to Saisera.

Mihael and Filip

(+3)

bbugari15. 11. 2019 20:36:05

Congratulations on the completed tour!
Would prefer original Slovenian names: Koštrun spires, Notch last Spranja...
LP and stay safe!

palček plezalček5. 11. 2019 20:47:21

Super Mihael and Filip nasmeh

Add some pics so we can feast our eyes mežikanje

blue3305. 11. 2019 22:06:25

It is true that the Slovenian name is Notch of the last Spranja; Gino Buscaini in the extensive ALPI GIULIE (CAI-TCI 1974) cites the toponym Mojzes Notch as by F. Bäder in 1861, since the rock mass at the notch greatly resembles Michelangelo's artwork. Usually you confirm the Slovenian term Koštrun Spires.

A few more pics from the trip.

možič shows the right path along the wide ledge

searching for easy passages in the direction

natural window, exit of the route. Under the window there is a fresh rockfall.

(+7)

dprapr6. 11. 2019 08:08:48

Bivouac is also named after Slovenian-born alpinist Darko Majcen and is no Mazzeni at all.
Otherwise, one of the nicest tours in this area. Congratulations.

(+2)

jaz6. 11. 2019 10:01:57

http://www.sentierinatura.it/easyne2/LYT.aspx?Code=SentieriNatura&IDLYT=1970&ST=SQL&SQL=ID_Documento=2565 Regards!

redbull13. 02. 2022 20:10:40

Nord Ovest Viš (12.02.22)

Haven't seen anything about winter ascent anywhere, but last year I spotted a nice line of this route myself. Photo of NW wall from two weeks ago didn't look bad. Expected more beaten base at least to the crack/basins, but we got more sinking. Basins are quite icy, this year not skiable so far. We turned left to A.S. Carlo Chersi. No sinking all the way, so we put on crampons hoping it'd be hard enough, especially in steeper sections. It was. First pitch over, end of second before Studenci glacier where NW route starts. Nicely snowed. Up to ledge and traverse left all the way to wall. Traverse not short and mixed terrain on that ledge. By wall the gully is really nicely filled, surprisingly good. In summer you climb more to the right of that. We stuck to winter base by wall, which was nicely consolidated all the way. Before barrier to the right, where the original pathless section is. There we geared up with harnesses, above all essential aids are pitons. That jump or two looked completely different than in summer. That's only about 100m before the window. With belaying, which took us some time, we safely climbed and exited through the window. Now there are additional four pitons, which will be useful in summer too, although there's not much traffic here. First sun rays shone on us today. Both happy, we headed to Viš. Some nice easterly wind and first time today we felt it. Descent to Mojzes notch and back to crack. Snow is also well consolidated below, where with smaller snow amount usually problem due to jump. Those two jumps in span of three meters weren't quite easy. I'd say M4 for the whole route.