Hiking-trail.net
hiking-trail.net
Login
Login
Username:
Password:
Login
Not registered yet? Registration.
Forgot password?
      
List of forums / Slovenia / Julian Alps / Viš - NW gully

Viš - NW gully

Print
zokipoki14. 02. 2022 07:26:08
Bravo! Good luck further!nasmeh
(+2)like
dprapr14. 02. 2022 09:49:16
Great tour, nice pics of conditions.
Don't you use via ferrata sets?
(+7)like
kovakija14. 02. 2022 10:19:45
Hi, looks like you had air support on pic no. 26. Congrats on the nice ascent. best
(+3)like
sneg14. 02. 2022 12:12:07
All congratulations, and safe ahead on various paths.
(+3)like
Dr_Ursic14. 02. 2022 13:27:53
We are dprapr.
From the lower belay over 2 jumps it no longer makes sense.
Thanks.
(+3)like
rozka28. 07. 2022 20:49:20
This time into the gods' lapnasmeh… long ago spotted, then watched, but never dared think that I would ever do it, since when looking at the walls of mighty Viš, it's hard to imagine where and how that seemingly inaccessible approach leads.

Zajzera always enchants and just the view from the last parking lot recharges the batteries. Over scree towards Darko Majcen, path already known, but that day legs heavy, I barely dragged myself to half of Carlo Chersi, where at the second gully, on the inviting green ledge, we left the marked path. We geared up and already "strolled" on the lower Viš ledge, which leads left towards the NW couloir. End obvious and there we turn right along the couloir, searching for the easiest passages all the way to the rock barrier above us, where from the left God's ledges reveal themselves, probably really the work of something-someone bigger than usmežikanje and walking on them is a privilege for me. Since the ledges end abruptly here, you have to make a bit of an effort to climb back onto them. Here we belay for the little jump, catch the continuation, ledge OK followable, just a little doubt gnaws at me when it starts suspiciously dropping down and becoming narrowereek. First tricky passage where you look into the depths of CC below, carefully, but it goes, then we reach the hardest spot where there should be a piton or peg for belaying, well the two of us didn't see/find it, since we were busy with the traverse and improvised floating belay. Phew, got a couple more heart attacks?! The ledge then becomes easier and we follow it to the start of the harder part, where you already see Mojzes, but the two of us head right, 2 cairns, into luscious scrambling along the wall, really incredible passages. Follows a bit of hunting, tricky gully and already huffing under-towards Cima de lis Codis and we reach the shoulder where we cross to the Jezersko side. Ulala, a vast slope opens before us and we're a bit stunned, since we didn't exactly know which ledge to choose. We decide and descend, for me the hardest part of the tour, mix of mini grass patches loaded with plenty of stones, nothing below, really nasty. When we reached the spot where we should continue, it seemed to us that we saw a cairn. I take a photo, zoom in and yes, the little cairn stands and waits for us to notice it, hehe. We traverse that ledge too, then 5 min break, when we realize that above us is the remnant of a war position called Pagoda and a bit further we already spot the marked path below us that comes from Mojzes. Hmm, and just when I had sighed in relief, my climbing partner pulls the next one from his treasure chest of ideasvelik nasmeh, what if the two of us do it a bit differently, and, and, and… I gave in, of coursevelik nasmeh and already we were climbing past Pagoda, among the little towers, approach called Via dei Torrioni and up and down and around and when I spotted Marijica, I didn't know if it was an illusion or realvelik nasmeh. I hug her, then sit and absorb… lunch and plan where we will descend. Well, I don't know if we chose the optimal descentzmeden, but one had to be chosen. Descent towards Mojzes, then over Koštrunove špice and the 2nd nastiest part of the tour, sliding and catching steps across Medvedova dolinamrk pogled. Constant gaze towards the valley which wasn't any closer demotivated us and silence became our guide to the car.

Solitary, wild, extremely long, strenuous tour, but the awareness that it succeeded, that you walk on the "legacy" of the greats and the bests, is truly a priceless feeling and overcomes even such a long day and tired bodies.
Morning above Zajzero1
bivouac at Darko's2
deer at breakfast :)3
I'd just wait on the meadow :)4
View back5
lower Viš shelf6
above us7
prusik for the severed section from the Božje police8
Božje police from the left9
transition to the upper storey where BP continues10
wilderness and ledges are fewer and fewer...11
over the hardest part, you fall into the abyss12
narrow, inclined, rocky and drafty13
on the other side14
if the whole Božja polica were like this...15
views towards the neighbours16
koštrun looking at Koštrunke, hehe17
Špranja is visible and here the polica becomes harder and narrower18
caught on the ridge :)19
grass under Cima de lis Codis20
Peeked out on the right21
Another close neighbor22
ledge23
Descent from left grasses and our descent ledge visible24
Manual work, but...25
Mighty walls of Viš26
Pagoda27
Approach Via dei Torrioni28
towards the summit29
Dizzying little bench?!30
a little more31
In the back on grasses, crossing to Jezersko side visible32
Corsi33
And yesss, summit, and another visit as reward34
She was very curious :)35
snapshot36
Chamois mom, Wild goat...37
snapshot38
And 2nd part of the tour has begun39
Views40
Excellent view of approach over grasses, ledge then between pillars to summit41
steep grass of Koštrun towers42
towards Scalini saddle43
Oh oh oh, scree and no path44
Ledge course well visible45
Mighty pyramid46
Last breaths of the day47
(+17)like
andraja28. 07. 2022 21:49:16
Wonderful tour and nice report. On the 3rd photo there is a deer.
(+1)like
redbull28. 07. 2022 21:53:27
Very nice, interesting tour. You could already publish it under some new topic. Interesting approach along God's ledge around ("around the ass"). There, where there was one peg which I thought you mentioned, now there are three new ones (from this year's more or less winter ascent). With the original approach through the window you save some strength, since you're already quite close to the top.
Great tour, good luck
like
rozka28. 07. 2022 22:01:08
andraja, thanks, I'll fix it right away.mežikanje
I've already seen one but much bigger, this one seemed too small for a deer to me, hahavelik nasmeh
like
rozka28. 07. 2022 22:06:54
redbull, thanksnasmeh
you're right, around the ass to the top, but it's worth it.
About the pegs... not one, let alone three, we didn't seejezik, it was quite tense across that traverse, ufff...
like
ločanka29. 07. 2022 07:35:26
Rozka super and congrats of course! But I'm interested in your descent via Medvedova dolina, you say, is that Škrbina Prednje Špranje? There's apparently a landslide now, or did you mean another descent?
(+1)like
rozka29. 07. 2022 07:45:19
ločanka, thanksnasmeh
yes, yes, ŠPŠ... it was very nasty for me, nothing holds, everything rolls, such really nasty terrain.
But lower you can see a fairly new slide under the walls of Špika nad Nosom, but the path is not obstructed.
(+2)like
dprapr29. 07. 2022 07:55:58
Rozka, next time also left part of God's ledges. I think they go in the same direction as you two went that part from NW deber.
Must be really good tour, whole circle.
You do interesting "paths". nasmeh
(+1)like
rozka29. 07. 2022 08:01:46
Thanksmežikanje
When I first heard of God's ledges, then swingeek and at least four, I'll for now stick to what's done, hehe... won't say the thought isn't temptingjezik
Next day from Nabojs looked at start under Divja koza (if not mistakenzadrega) and part of ledges we walked, really prominently visible.
(+2)like
geppo29. 07. 2022 09:28:11
Congratulations to both!!!!
regards
(+1)like
rozka29. 07. 2022 10:31:31
Zlatko, thanksnasmeh
(+1)like
nenap29. 07. 2022 18:29:16
Very nice demanding tour velik nasmeh
God's ledges around Viš, Nabojsa... "The north face of Viš is so close from the top that you could almost pick up a climber who might just then be swinging in the famous swing."
Big congrats to both velik nasmeh
Nevenka
(+1)like
Page:123
You must log in to post a comment:
Username:
Password:
Login
If you do not yet have a username, you must first register.
         
Copyright © 2026 Hiking-trail.net, Terms of use, Privacy and cookies