Rjavina and Vrbanove špice
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| LidijaJesih16. 08. 2012 17:17:17 |
Sjevnika, looks like we posted together. That descent is on pic 15 and additionally on this one I'm attaching. It's a bit special indeed, but you just need to stay focused, nothing else. Janiel, for myself I'd choose the opposite direction. Over Vrbanove peaks to Stanič for a break, then back to the start for Rjavina, up the secured path, over the ridge down and then via scree back to Rjavina start and to Kot. 
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| sjevnika16. 08. 2012 22:24:37 |
Thanks Lidija, I've got at least some idea now, obviously there's quite a lot of space for feet and with some caution there's no special bav bav, or am I wrong?
I've had this tour planned for a long time, of course also the Vrbanove, two years ago I already circled around there, but unfortunately I didn't get further than Cmir and Begunjski vrh.
Be nice to me, Saša
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| LidijaJesih17. 08. 2012 08:09:14 |
Plenty of space for feet, even to switch feet on the pegs, verified. According to Murphy you always step with the wrong foot. It really looks "interesting" when you look down, but the start is protected by a cable, then you can slowly climb down nicely. When you get to the lower staples, the hand peg is around the corner. Go boldly.
You enjoy too, Rjavina is beautiful, you won't regret it.
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| sjevnika17. 08. 2012 11:24:34 |
Lidija, same story as with me, always start on the wrong foot, especially on those slabs or passages that are distinctly smooth. Been planning Vrbanke and Rjavina for a long time, but they always slip away. Hope it works this year. Thanks for the encouragement. I'm one of those people who hikes mostly alone in the hills, so I always check very carefully where I'm heading, thanks for all the info.
best, Saša
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| zvončnica27. 08. 2012 11:11:12 |
On Saturday from Kot to Rjavina, from Rjavina along the ridge to Staničeva koča and descent over Vrbanove spits back to Kot.
The path from Kot to Rjavina is fine, a bit of scrambling to the top of Rjavina, and at the top we were rewarded with beautiful , gorgeous views. I didn't imagine it was such a panoramic mountain, so beautiful, and yet so little visited  , but I have to admit that this time she chose me, not I her (and that's the nicest thing), that's how I felt it and when I reached the top I knew why.
From Rjavina we descended along the ridge path to Staničeva koča, this path is also beautiful and panoramic, then after a short break we climbed to Visoka Vrbanova špica, continued to Spodnja Vrbanova špica and descended back to Kot.
The path over Vrbanove špice is fantastic, quite varied , interesting , nice views here too, but requires a lot of care and safety gear.
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| gorskidecek27. 08. 2012 11:57:22 |
Zvončnica, congratulations to you, or rather to all together for an almost unique day. You had nice weather, good company and you nicely set yourselves this mountain tour. So you had all the essential factors that ensured a wonderful, literally dreamy day. I went this route last year. The path is really very scenic, varied and interesting. I sometimes have that feeling too, like the mountain calls me... That's when I have the best time...
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| pupek6. 08. 2013 20:01:19 |
I plan to visit from Kot valley Rjavina, Begunski vrh with Cmir back via Vrban summits to Kot. Wondering if anyone knows a route description.
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| som696. 08. 2013 20:08:55 |
All these routes are superbly described on this forum.
Look under: "list of mountains".
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| LidijaJesih6. 08. 2013 20:09:19 |
Everything is on this portal under route descriptions.
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| Swiss8. 08. 2013 20:36:13 |
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| jesihar29. 08. 2013 09:09:37 |
I plan to go to Vrbanove Špice and descend via Rjavina (climbing route). I'm interested in which direction the route is "nicer" and which way is easier to descend - or you know what I mean.
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| Daaam29. 08. 2013 09:16:00 |
I'd say it's almost easier to descend from Rjavina.. But both routes are quite demanding, so no simple answer. Opinions will probably be divided.. Depends on your experience and what suits you better..
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| neph29. 08. 2013 09:54:09 |
If you're looking for the optimal option, i.e. as it's usually done (ascend the harder route and descend the easier one), best to go from Kot to Debeleg kamen and above it turn right to the secured path to Vrbanove Špice. From Visoka Vrbanova špica descend back towards Kot to the junction for the "climbing route" to Rjavina, ascend it and descend via the ridge path to Staničev dom. Of course with this route you traverse from Staničev dom to the junction for the climbing route on Rjavina twice and thus extend the tour, but it's certainly the most comfortable option.
Another quite good option in my opinion is ascent to Rjavina via "climbing route", descent via ridge path to Staničev dom and then descent to the valley via Vrbanove špice. Of course everything depends on experience - if you're confident on secured paths you can go in all directions, but all mentioned routes are quite demanding and exposed in places.
Read previous comments in this thread. But at Rjavina I'd point out one thing - the last descent before the summit is secured only with pegs, so self-belaying is out. You have to traverse it up and down.
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| jure197729. 08. 2013 10:17:17 |
I'd also say it's better to first ascend to Vrbanove špice, then to Staničev dom, to the top of Rjavina and down via the climbing route.
At the beginning of the ascent to Vrbanove špice the grass can be quite slippery and the path objectively more dangerous. The secured climbing route from Rjavina is fairly short and well protected, of course caution is needed.
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| julika29. 08. 2013 13:08:11 |
The initial part of the path to Vrbanove špice is very steep and dangerous for slipping. Descending can be very unpleasant for those sensitive on knees and toes. If I went again, I'd probably go first over Vrbanove špice and descend via Rjavina.
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| SunBurned29. 08. 2013 13:23:08 |
Fully agree with neph's post. Neither of these two routes is good to do downwards in climbing direction, mainly due to high slipping risk in unsecured sections.
So: Kot-Debeli Kamen-VVŠ-descent to climbing on Rjavina-summit-ridge back to Staničev dom.
The ridge from Rjavina also has an "emergency exit", via which you can far before Stanič over scree return to Pekel on the path to Kot.
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| cormi29. 08. 2013 13:23:58 |
I went as neph describes and it was great. From Staničeva koča back to the start of the climbing route on Rjavina is half an hour walk (or even less ).
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