Ridge traverse Veliki Oltar-Visoki Rokav-Financarji(Žaga)-Škrlatica
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| knap422713. 10. 2014 19:26:23 |
It's Alpina, but don't tell Juš that THEY ARE THE LAW. Light, rubber holds, when change needed I know where to go.
Regards, Matej
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| Macesna13. 10. 2014 20:57:15 |
Awesome ... Congratulations!
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| mailman15. 10. 2014 17:40:40 |
Movie title would be: No room for amateurs!!! Hat's off
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| Berzo15. 10. 2014 18:05:24 |
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| dprapr30. 08. 2015 12:39:58 |
Yesterday my brother Vinko and I enjoyed this ridge. Well, we suffered a bit too, because the ridge is really long and demands full concentration almost the whole time. No easy strolling on grassy carpets like on the ridges of Loška stena, Kanceljne, Pelci, Pihavci... This ridge really deserves the highest rating, as Jovan and Juš already noted.
Since we're getting on in years (together 115 years), we split the tour into two days. On Friday towards evening we approached Bivak1 in Velika Dnina and overnighted there. It was a really nice evening, peace and quiet, no wind. Over beer we sat outside on the bench in front of the bivak for a long time. Maybe I'll change my opinion on bivaks in the end!?
Yesterday morning we started at 5:45 and via the inviting SW ridge reached Veliki Oltar. Truly the nicest approach to this mighty peak. We didn't linger much but continued straight to Visoki Rokav. Over nice but cluttered ledges with help of numerous cairns we quickly stood on the second mighty Martuljek summit.
There the real action began. The ridge to Škrlatica showed itself in full grandeur before us. Right from the start we rappelled down to even get on it.
Then under the so-called finančarji zigzagging here and there until it closed completely and we finally ascended back to the ridge via a steep gully. So we could peek to the other side and greet the younger brother who went to Špik with a group. After numerous traverses, rappels, climbing corners we reached the sharpest third summit, the hardest to access. But the rock there is excellent and that outweighs everything. If the whole ridge was like that and like the slab climbing to Škrlatica, it'd get the highest aesthetic score too. Sadly those are just short highlights of this ridge offering great climbing pleasure.
At 15:10 we stood on Škrlatica summit happy to have experienced such a day up there where we love it most.
Only a long descent via Kriška stena to Krnica and to Vršič road to the car awaited us. But that wasn't important anymore as we did it till dark anyway.
Finally, all these ridges I've published or not yet are my brother's project of "conquering" Slovenian 2000ers (412 on his list). Yesterday's (Vrh Rokavskega grebena) was 411th, so penultimate!
 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35
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| vukovivek30. 08. 2015 13:32:56 |
dprapr congrats on the strenuous tour.:-)
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| Daaam30. 08. 2015 14:13:07 |
Excellent! Which peak will be the last from the list?
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| Jovan Cukut30. 08. 2015 14:19:58 |
Yesterday after exiting Kugy route I thought of you and sent greetings from Strug a bit later. Bravo, Praprotnik brothers.
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| Maemi30. 08. 2015 14:57:13 |
Incursion into fantastic Martuljek wilderness...wicked, congrats from me too! 
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| knap422730. 08. 2015 15:09:06 |
Nice, congrats, but I'd join for 412 since I'm sure I haven't been up there yet.
Best, Matej
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| lijaneja30. 08. 2015 15:19:34 |
Masters of rock they are. No doubt. Congrats on the accomplished feat.
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| Ornitolog30. 08. 2015 15:42:25 |
Yesterday we were on the Altar alone Styrians
@dprapr when I saw in the logbook the record of the continuation of your path, my hairs stood on end. You two are real aces, bravo!
p.s. I caught you two in the camera lens, just before you left Rokav
best regards
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| Viper30. 08. 2015 15:52:47 |
Congratulations on the excellent ascent.
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| bsumrada30. 08. 2015 16:35:20 |
Congratulations! Which Slovenian two-thousanders list is this, where there are 412 of them?
Thanks, best regards
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| dprapr30. 08. 2015 18:05:41 |
Thanks for the congratulations!
Matija, the last peak will be Turn pod Črnim Voglom.
Matej, you'll have to arrange with Vinko, because I probably won't be there.
Ornitolog, I photographed someone on V. Oltarju, don't know if it's you. Attaching photo.
@bsumrada, I think Vinko has the list from M&M, but didn't count the peaks of the Western Julians.
He'll tell you himself!
Best regards everyone!
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| cenc30. 08. 2015 19:03:48 |
Really thanks everyone for the congratulations.
Now, as I'm almost at the end, I must admit that Vrh Rokavskega grebena, at least for me, is the most demanding Slovenian two-thousander. True, there are others among them that are very "salty" (Kanceljni with Prevčev stolp, Turn pod Razorjem), but they don't require from the visitor
such a long and uninterrupted concentration (about 4-5 hours), as the ridge traverse from Visoki Rokav to the last notch below Škrlatica requires.
All lists of Slovenian two-thousanders are very subjective, because there is no uniform criterion. On mine there are 412, but there could easily be at least 50 less and also 50 more. For me, the broader M&M list (including western Julians) served as a base, from which I excluded those peaks across the border, added those whose names appeared on other lists and various sources (Imenoslovje Julijskih Alp).
Even on my list there are some that in my opinion don't belong.
The last on the list is Turn pod Črnim Voglom
in the Kanin range. I plan to "process" it together with Visoka Rosijanska pot, which passes by it. Maybe this year or next.
The descriptions of Marjana and Marko were of great help on many tours. They knew how to highlight the key points.
Best regards to all.
Vinko
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| Wine31. 08. 2015 08:24:49 |
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