Ridge traverse Veliki Oltar-Visoki Rokav-Financarji(Žaga)-Škrlatica
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| jožka15. 08. 2016 14:49:56 |
All respect to the climbers of this ridge. With Mrs. Marči we went yesterday to admire it from V. Dnine and a bit later from V. Oltarja. We saw it even better from V. Rokava; we studied Žaga on site, but the calculation with the ridge towers didn't work out because there was an overhang. Consequently, there were also some extra rappels, descents and abseils, and when we looked back at Škrlatica from the cross, we unanimously decided that we two won't climb this ridge. Jušev's trip report and Tomo's instructions served as a template, thx.
Your Jožka
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| redbull20. 09. 2020 19:50:37 |
V.Oltar-V.R.-Škrlatica(Financarji)- 19.9.20
Just before the week started it didn't look like such a really weather-perfect weekend. Third D went to enjoy with his better half and that's just right. There'll be time, though judging by the temperatures maybe this weekend is even the last good one for ridge traverses ahead. Haven't gone from Krnica to Veliki Oltar yet, so perfect destination. Had all gear, so if no fog and weather stable we'll descend to Žaga. Ridge between Visoki Rokav and Škrlatica. More later. Borrowed 60m rope from David and drove to Kranjska Gora. Foggy in valleys so incredibly warm, had to start without jackets. Around 10°C and same time on Kredarica 9. Unbelievable what's happening today, me with two winter gloves at backpack bottom. Better prepared than surprised on path. I can pat myself on the back; I rarely miss. Few mins before 6 at wooden tub filled with drink (Koča v Krnici). Maybe return there if descent variant, or to Vrata. On such tour forget tired legs, only what's ahead in head. Walked fast, met some headed to Špik, overtook. Up fallen gully slightly right over damp wet path. Scree annoyingly wet. Behind us right of Velika Dnina valley cloud cream. Perfect not cold. Just up up views right inevitable to Financarji ridge. Top difficulty ridge, many say hardest traverse here (VR-Škrlatica). Kugy to Škrlatica behind us too, looks great, live in dry rather not imagine. Tone right, hardest ascent V.Oltar from Dnina this scree under feet. Slid slid had to find biggest stones rocks for steps. Somehow to wall gear up lighter packs for "nice pitch" karabiners ropes reverso. Few mins to saddle left hard route "paradise"(from VMP). Oltar dir II climbing no diff rock good. Summit surprisingly 3h15min. Met hill friends martinčk-ing top beautiful warm morning. Happy so fast here, now traverse Visoki Rokav won't take long. Know path well don't underestimate. Rock steps key cos scree slips. Everywhere life careful anyway. Below under ridge usual but easier var lower we turned ridge early again. Always "spice" else not interesting. Quick rope down rope ready ahead. Visoki Rokav bit over hour from Oltar. After 11 took 10min refuel strip layers. Hot as boiler day forecast prev eve Škrlatica to 5C beach like. No net today head ridge focus. Denis: No normal descent (alpin route) didn't carry gear nothing time super. Lump throat. First peg ropes(kar) last time first abseil. Then right "cigars gendarmes" pointed tips. Not only German Triglav scales here interesting huge crack. Caution scree small desc loose rocks under saw. Lowest ridge part traverse below back crest soonest. Best easiest spot. Hit exact. Ridge rope belay no need yet. Rest top first tower post Žaga. Drago Jovan Juš pics years back handy. Greg tips lift positive. No pics need today weather focus route drawn head tho towers hard believe possible. Mid high boot trusted rubber must. Scarpa rubber holds rock unbeliev. Low like Sportiva no dare. Crumbly rocks fly ankle covered. Alpin summer boot super opp winter (cold winters). On ridge some flat horns soon descent. Good prog careful steps grips crumbly. Half fast last 40% pause. Direct climb no belay risky. Easier right almost poor IV inter peg later another higher. Denis belays first. Rock ok here. Up thick horn loop rope. Better peg but ok. Pull rope kar left arm hurt. Part not easy. Oltar-Rokav ridge walk vs this old cats said. Next desc two 15m. Four today total eight. All Greg 40m enough prefer 60 safe. Fifth rope no down pull strange look. Curses climb higher hard went. Else climb higher right poss. Each m pull small rock down. Right toe hurt hard front. Hard hit 7cm stone top exact toe. No words space elsewhere.
Rope solved, hats off to Denis he quickly packed the rope, attached it and we went on. Almost last third tower desc scree no belay to seventh. Penult no rope. Orient head rock for last abz. Airiest enjoyable bit. Climb direct gully rock excell. Better Via Dogna. III easy vs prev. Top ledge left around notch climb top. Cross 50m Škrlatica top flat. Back view breath-taking last tower no breathe. Yelled joy hardest traverse done. Denis congrats rope super I'd longer. Ridge <5h maybe 4h. Pro screers say lots used. Post break 16.45 opt Vrata bro Kranjska Gora worst pick drive car. Best cos Kriška stena car 9pm maybe. Nice to Vrata pre 7 Laški Aljaž dom. Thx bro 13h tour. Krnica return 14.5h prob. Such Martuljek tours no hurry rock.
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| lijaneja20. 09. 2020 20:58:11 |
The upper part of Dnina in summer conditions is really annoying, only beaten by scree to Rokav ozebnik. Thus I visit Oltar in snow, approach to rocks is a real song.
Anyway hats off. Sometimes regret starting mountains so late missed these treats forever.
This even belongs in alpinistic ascents forum, us scree folk can only drool here...
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| Filip_Culjak20. 09. 2020 22:41:19 |
Hats off guys  feat I still dream of
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| dprapr21. 09. 2020 09:29:33 |
Uh, I barely (again) got through the text.
It's longer than the tour.
It seems that such ridges leave their mark on the visitor. It's really something special, the total opposite of the Trentars, which attract me lately.
Tone, such ridges are done in old age. Youngsters are overtaking.
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| lijaneja21. 09. 2020 11:56:11 |
Oh Drago, you comforted me. So I still have time.
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| JusAvgustin21. 09. 2020 13:25:14 |
Of course you have. And surely you won't "collect" as much as these two did .
Congrats for the tour. Not exactly a walk, right?
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| redbull21. 09. 2020 15:03:31 |
Far from a walk, but if someone asked me whether I'd rather go to Matterhorn from Cervinia next week or this traverse again. I'd choose the Martuljek end immediately. Much better than sailor ropes
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| JusAvgustin21. 09. 2020 16:10:06 |
You surprise me. In the positive sense. Praiseworthy.
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| Nejc78721. 09. 2020 21:57:03 |
Congratulations on the tour! And for, as always, the very documented (useful) description and photos.
Good luck!
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| alyas22. 09. 2020 08:17:24 |
Congratulations D&D, if this was already great work, we don't know, but probably close to it, at least in our mountains. And nice that you added and described the story too, good luck 
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