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Prisank / Prisojnik - Hanz's Route

darinka418. 08. 2019 13:01:40

Snowfield on the Hanz route to Prisank. 15 Aug 2019.

those two guys had an ice axe. But they turned back because you need both. The snow was hard on 15.8.

I myself wondered if my crampons would grip. The 12 teeth gripped well.

foreigners who followed me with winter gear passed without trouble.

(+4)

lijaneja18. 08. 2019 13:25:22

Yes, Darinka, thanks to you too. I only checked conditions below the Hanz route, instead of Prisojnik in general.

(+1)

lijaneja19. 08. 2019 20:53:41

Thanks again for the warnings, otherwise I would have had to turn back, just like the guy who was right in front of me before the snowfield. I used the gear to the full, going on the snow all the way to the top of the tongue. As usual, I reached the summit ten minutes too late, as the mists overtook me. No big deal, there’ll just be a few less photos velik nasmeh

. I descended via the ridge route, from Vršič pass down to the car a friendly guy from Goričko gave me a lift.

Already from afar it warns - crampons, ice axe!

At the top completely grey, in the shape of some kind of half-shell.

Opposite, mists are already forming. (Mojstrovke)

Koča na Gozdu from the top. The car is still there.

Vršiški koči (Poštarski dom and Erjavčeva koča) on the sunny side. Upper right Vratica 1799.

The ridge is very crowded. Only foreigners.

Plešivec, Trentski Pelc and Srebrnjak from in front of Tičar.

(+9)

turbo19. 08. 2019 21:16:17

lijaneja,
Prisojnik’s Goličica (photo 1) is accessible without harder climbing. It’ll be twenty years since I was up there, maybe a year more, and there was nothing particularly difficult. Right above the saddle (we went up from Koča na Gozdu) between Prednja glava and Goličica there was one awkward jump where I helped myself up and down by pulling on the bushes. Rope, as I recall, my friend and I didn’t need either up or down. Great tour. Here’s a description:
http://www2.arnes.si/~mcuder/vrh/golicica_p.html

(+1)

JusAvgustin19. 08. 2019 21:18:06

Isn’t it obvious that you take crampons and an ice axe on the Hanz route? Better too much gear than too little. This light-and-fast in sneakers and flip-flops has long gone beyond good taste. Besides, a large portion of people rely on: if it doesn’t work out, I’ll just call 112. And that thesis is NOT made up. But think then also about the fact that you endanger not only yourself but everyone involved in the rescue operation. Vršič pass anyway we know is one of the “hot spots” here and is heavily underestimated. A tour is finished when the “tour analysis” is done, not at the summit. Most accidents happen on the descent. So, people, use your head so that the mountains remain a pleasure.

(+17)

lijaneja19. 08. 2019 21:43:29

Bojan, I’ve already studied that description several times, but it just doesn’t add up for me velik nasmeh

I myself doubt I’d be up to it. Maybe someday with Drago or with the young guy you mentioned nasmeh

Yes, Juš, and I was without a helmet, self-belay kit, winter boots... eek

(+2)

Domch21. 08. 2019 15:45:15

Basically Salomon shoes and little crampons don’t cut it jezik

Full kit: mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axe, self-belay kit, helmet and poles.

CAR31. 08. 2019 16:14:27

Hanz route: beautiful and strenuous but without proper gear don’t risk it, it can cost you dearly. A few years ago with only an ice axe I had a partial slip; it never crosses my mind anymore to leave crampons at home. Safe steps and happy return to the valley I wish all hikers.

(+4)

Domch28. 10. 2019 19:48:47

On Saturday I took advantage of ideal autumn weather and a dry gully and climbed the Hanz route to Prisojnik. This time I did the ascent alone and the tour once again thrilled me with all its beauty, passages, length and silence (no herd farting jezik

). Waterfalls are there. Protection ok, except one slightly loose cable when descending into the gully with eternal snow (no major issues). The gully is dry on the entry side, on the other side there’s a remnant snowfield which I avoided on the lower side and went a bit up on smooth rock and back onto the marked path. The helmet came in handy, I banged the wall twice while climbing mežikanje

. I also used the self-belay kit on all harder sections. The hardest part is after the vertical climb up and then over ledges upward into the upper scree, where there’s quite a long climbing section upward that isn’t protected but the rock is compact and holds are good. I guess that’s grade I climbing. In the final part the sun greets me and the perfectly protected last section, protection flawless, and at the summit in homage to the route and the peak I take off the helmet and enjoy the views. Lots of visitors at the top. Descent via the ridge route to the top of Vršič pass and to Erjavčeva koča, where friendly hikers give me a ride down to Koča na Gozdu.