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Prisank / Prisojnik - Hanz's Route

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lijaneja6. 09. 2018 21:48:01
Bojan, all huts are tip-top and under the PZS umbrella. You probably meant Tonkina, which is a bit higher — that one is private.
I didn't photograph the snow patch because it's really ugly in the lower part.velik nasmeh. The extreme gaps are practically nonexistent, but there is hard ice at the start, where I carved a couple of steps. I could have gone around (about 20 m descent), but I had to justify carrying the ice axejezik.
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bbugari16. 09. 2018 22:06:22
Bravo for the ice axe velik nasmeh
Sorry if I'm wrong, but the one on the right isn't KNG but Tonkina. KNG is quite a bit lower...
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lijaneja7. 09. 2018 08:00:31
I see you're a real expert, Bojan! Of course the picture shows Tonkina hut. I only glanced superficially, but when zoomed it's clear I was wrong, and I apologise publicly for that.
Yeah, the ice axe is awesome, even if you only need it for five minutes on the whole tour.
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rok.si8. 09. 2018 13:23:25
Hello Lijaneja, my friend and I plan to do the Hanzova route tomorrow — you say you only needed the ice axe on a small section that could be avoided by descending, and everything else is snow-free?
If we need to bring ice axe and crampons we'll take them of course, otherwise the backpack will be lighter...
thanks!
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lijaneja8. 09. 2018 15:24:19
Just take the ice axe — at least at the summit you'll stand out from the crowd of tourists who come up through the meadows!nasmeh Right after the cable, use those few holes I dug in the ice, and let the axe serve for self-belay.
Good luck, guys!
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rok.si8. 09. 2018 21:21:10
Thanks! Ice axe packed — it'll slowly start getting used to mountain air again nasmeh
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lencka10. 09. 2018 10:10:18
We made the most of the wonderful day yesterday and climbed the Hanzova (read: the most beautiful) route to Prisank.
Ahead of us four brave souls tackled climbing the wall above the snow patch, behind us came two younger gentlemen (perhaps rok.si and his friend nasmeh)....then long nothing.
At the summit we did overhear a young girl with three guys commenting that we were overdoing it with the ice axe and probably just showing off gear...who likes carrying an overweight backpack for a full 8 hours eek
Since I'm a safety fanatic, I also put on crampons before the snow patch — or rather ice patch....a bit more excess weight for just a few metres. On top of the ice there's soft mud to make it easier to enter the gully...
With gear there are no problems and no worries. Pure enjoyment, views..........more in the picture...good luck
Start at Koča na Gozdu1
MM already bathed in sunlight2
....and in shadow3
Steel cables......I didn't count them :)4
Descent to the waterfall5
6
Morning shower7
Second waterfall8
entrance to the wall9
10
along the ledges11
Towards the snowfield12
13
Torn cable is no problem14
15
crossing the snowfield16
17
Trail junction18
Through the scree into the gully.19
20
summit register box21
22
23
There is a lot of free climbing.24
25
Who placed it right on the edge?26
last ascent towards the summit27
28
And we are in the crowd at the summit.29
Views...30
Views....31
...and views to nourish the soul.32
33
Does anyone recognize themselves in the photo just before 12 o'clock?34
On Mangart there is also a crowd.35
36
Vršič mountain huts.37
38
Still a long way to the car...39
Along the ridge path.40
...past a window into the valley.41
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coupet10. 09. 2018 16:01:17
Since I'm also interested in climbing the Hanz route at the beginning of next week if the weather holds, are crampons and ice axe mandatory or can you manage without?
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lencka10. 09. 2018 17:16:56
Everything has already been written by those before me. I added pictures...the decision is yours. Without an ice axe you can't go, without crampons you can. You'll carve steps if needed. Good luck nasmeh
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rok.si10. 09. 2018 19:22:56
Hi Lencka, you guessed right, the two of us were “breathing down your neck” nasmeh We were both thrilled with the beautiful, varied and quite solitary route, the crowd at the summit was all the more noticeable. It really was a day fit for the gods!

coupet, I’d take the ice axe again too!
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lencka11. 09. 2018 12:52:20
Yes, it was really nice... you two just save picture 16 nasmeh and I wish you many more successful adventures! best regards
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Peter Pehani14. 09. 2018 16:07:41
Ice axe and crampons are not essential. I carried them with me but didn’t use them. On the spot I assessed that for me passing under the snowfield (or around it) is considerably faster and safer than over it. The descent is about 15 vertical metres (as lijaneja already wrote). There is enough space between the extreme fissure and the rock face. At two places (crossing polished rocks) I “cheated” a little. If needed, you can help yourself there (if in pair) with a shoulder stand or a 3 m rope. The snowfield, however, looks very hard, hellishly hard ice. This condition will probably last until the first major snowfall.

I went via Hanz’s route on Wednesday, 12.9.2018. Really beautiful passages through the incredibly articulated wall of Prisank! I descended via the Jubilee route. On both routes I met no one. At the summit there were quite a few people (including the group of darinke4, who described it on hribi.net)
Every 100 m there is an altitude marker.1
View along the edge of the large, notorious snowfield, which is certainly a key point of the lower half of the path.2
The path crosses incredibly beautiful, seemingly impassable ledges at several points.3
A family of chamois.4
The last steep detail below the summit.5
View of the other leading peaks of the Julian Alps from Prisank summit.6
Martuljški Ponci, Oltar and Škrlatica as seen from the shady Jubilejna pot.7
The last window.8
Razor.9
Mlinarica, view towards the peaks above Zadnja Trento.10
Mlinarica, view of the serrated ridge from Turn to Razor.11
Last rays on the articulated wall of Prisank.12
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redbull15. 06. 2019 21:52:18
Hanz’s route (15.06.19)

In the initial wall you soon have to cross a waterfall. At the well-known eternal snowfield I only touched the snow and already put on crampons. I climb as high as possible and take them off. The ledges are partially snow-covered, but can be bypassed in places. Where that’s not possible, an ice axe is of course mandatory for traversing – the snow allowed it. The snowfield towards the Devil’s Pillar is naturally very snowy and will remain so for a long time. The right traverse is also partially snow-covered. To the summit without issues, the snowfield is as always in the same place. Descent via the Slovenian route, both gullies are heavily snow-covered and will definitely need another 2 to 3 weeks to clear. At Vršič pass I then take another Hanz’s route towards Mala Mojstrovka.
greeting to the waterfall1
2
3
4
Traverse5
6
view downwards7
traverses to the right8
upwards9
snowfield before the summit10
11
12
first gully, view from below upwards13
second gully14
Bad weather15
16
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Nejc78715. 06. 2019 23:04:38
Awesome!
Good luck!
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vstarc1618. 07. 2019 22:43:57
On Sunday 14.7. I climbed via Hanz’s route. The crossing over the extreme fissure onto the snowfield at the foot of the Devil’s Pillar is very difficult, there is still about 5 m of snow. You have to climb down a few metres on the cable, make a ledge in the snow with the ice axe and step across the fissure. To the edge of the snowfield it’s 3 m at 70 degrees and you have to pull up twice on the ice axe, standing on the front points of the crampons.

The ledge leading below the summit of the Devil’s Pillar is snow-covered in the upper half. A bypass left on the rocks is possible (quite smooth, I-II), I went right, between snow and rock, which didn’t work out – no exit. I had to put the crampons on again and climb onto the snowfield (45 degrees). Further on there is no more snow. I descended via the ridge route.
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redbull19. 07. 2019 08:12:38
This year it will be hard to pass without winter gear,
good luck
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lijaneja18. 08. 2019 11:44:41
No fresh info about the snow (and passing over it, under it...)?
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turbo18. 08. 2019 11:52:43
lijaneja,

Darinka was on this route a few days ago:

http://www.hribi.net/trenutnerazmere.asp?slo=1&id=691

Fresh mežikanje
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lijaneja18. 08. 2019 12:55:45
Bojan and Drago, thanks for checking in.
That would blow him away...eek
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