Hiking-trail.net
hiking-trail.net
Login
Login
Username:
Password:
Login
Not registered yet? Registration.
Forgot password?
      

Monte Coglians / Hohe Warte

Print
ljubitelj gora18. 06. 2012 17:38:44
Yesterday with my buddy we climbed the ferrata on Monte Coglians, we started at Untere Valentinalm trailhead, where we climb to the saddle from there to the ferrata, at the start some little snow which could be crossed without winter gear (we had winter gear with us), at the start quite strenuous because few steps (I was the previous day still on Mrzla gora and directly after climbing to Koroška Rinka, return Turski žleb) and it surprised me a bit, higher smooth rock, icing on the cake wet, somewhere mid ferrata path becomes easier, about 2 snowfields, bypass them a bit, otherwise no need for ice axe and crampons, after ferrata with 10kg+ backpack quite strenuous anyway, especially if slept only 3 hours before, summit almost no wind, only occasional hiker there and back, we descended the south path to Italian hut, on the way steep descents, fixed cables, carefully but plenty steps and holds, then past lake back to trailhead. Tour lasted whole day, I left home at 3.30 and arrived home at 21.00, whole tour 10-12 hrs depending on breaks. Definitely worth visiting these parts and I'll gladly return, but rested.
Admin disabled editing posts, so I delete and repost corrected.

https://picasaweb.google.com/114400986607884783562/FerrataMonteCoglians2780mKarnijskeAlpe
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
80
81
82
83
84
85
86
87
88
89
90
91
92
93
94
95
96
97
98
99
100
(+8)like
ljubitelj gora19. 06. 2012 16:29:39
I uploaded a lot more additional photos.
(+2)like
viharnik19. 06. 2012 16:43:25
Lots of photos, but no ljubitelj gora zmedenvelik nasmeh.
(+3)like
VanSims8. 07. 2012 19:15:30
After Triglav (highest in Julian Alps and of course Slovenia) yesterday I tackled the highest peak of the Carnic Alps. Via Korensko sedlo and Ziljska dolina (per Google Maps 15 min shorter than via Tolmezzo) I arrive at Untere Valentinalm where I park. From Obere Valentinalm to the pass the strenuous ascent is livened up by a bunch of marmots. From the pass I descend to Wolayersee where I also meet a group of Slovenes, from there a slight descent and I head to Spinotti path

Start marked Italian style: arrow for direction reversed (someone drew the correct one beside and good that I had the description from hribi.net), someone else (quite justifiably) added with marker "Sentiero Atrezzato". After about 5 min scree I climb the ladder then the ledges, which soon end. What the hribi.net description omits is that from about one third of the path onward it is more or less free climbing, which (thanks to excellent use of natural passages) does not exceed grade I. But quite exposed.

When I reach the top of the 'ferrata' I continue on the path. Here two exposed gullies await me - steps lead over the second. Then soon I reach the junction to Coglians path. A slight ascent, from the junction with the path from Rifugio Marinelli the knee-grinding scree starts. In the upper steeper part even poles don't help anymore, climbing here despite promises from the description is minimal - just one larger rock.

Then I reach two Italians, their little dog starts barking furiously so I pull out pepper spray. The Italian woman just grins and asks: Italiano? Tedesco? Slovenski? I nod to the last question. "Nema problema!", she grins. Of course she knows well what nonchalant connotation this phrase has with us. For her there really is none and she keeps smiling, but her husband, seeing there's no joking with me, just grabs the dog and moves it so I can pass.

Since the summit was in fog I only saw from 'ljubitelj's photos what insane panorama I missed. Up there are also many plaques dedicated to deceased climbers. Having nothing to admire, after a short snack I start descending. That climbing rock was a bit tricky on descent, but the scree thanks to poles very fluid. I simply slid down it. Thus I quickly reached the junction where I headed towards Marinelli. The path becomes very nice, unfortunately due to fog I only guess what nice views I'm missing. At Marinelli I ask for the way to Plockenpass. I descend path 146, also going through that nice natural window. After it the real descent starts and suddenly I see the road at Plockenpass.

When I reach the road, on the Austrian side I ask how to get to Untere Valentinalm. Luckily someone was there who was just heading there by car. He says drink a beer then we'll go. So I do. During the drive he shows me the program of some mountaineering meeting next week in Mojstrana with trips to Luknja and Dovška Baba. When talking about Coglians he says Weg 26 isn't even that hard... zmeden Surely he's climbed it many times. mežikanje At Plockenshaus he shows me where the forest path to Untere Valentinalm branches off. With that path I would walk one hour from the top of the pass. But since dusk was falling I would have had to trudge along the road which would take another half hour or so. I thank him nicely when he drives me to the car, then I drive back this time via Italy and stop in Tarvisio for the obligatory ice cream.
like
mirank9. 09. 2012 20:17:25
The day didn't start the best as after about 15 min I realize I forgot sunglasses. I console myself that the path to Lambertenghi Romanin hut will be in shade, and to the summit sun on north side won't be much. Worse is when at the hut for tea I can't feel the wallet in my pocket, the better half, who prepared change for the toll, left it on the seat in the car!! Well, on the right side of Volaja pass we cross 50m above the lake to the main trail and quite quickly find ourselves at Valentin pass and shortly after in the ferrata, which is demanding at the bottom, from the junction with the old Koban Prunner path the wire except for a few passages is mostly for marking. At the top in clear weather the bell often rings and announces ever new satisfied climbers. We descended on the usual path to the junction with the Spinotti path, from there on the poorer marked path which runs approximately along the route of Igor's winter ascents to Moraretto pasture and to the starting point at Tolazzi hut.
The nice day was occasionally spoiled for me by the thought of a broken window or lock, but nothing of that, the wallet was where it was forgotten - on the front seat visible from the plane. I don't know what; whether full parking or the frequency of people moving there, everything can influence so that it stayed there. I only know that this is not to be tested.
(+3)like
IgorZlodej24. 04. 2013 15:43:53
Sadly, from the photo I can't make out anything, Maja. If at least the valley down to the Moraretto pasture were visible, anyway I've been up there this year already, more interested in Valentin valley behind Coglians mežikanje.
(+2)like
bohincm28. 05. 2013 19:13:52
Hello

Please for information from anyone who has hiked Monte Coglians from the Austrian side (Plocken Haus) past Untere Valentialm and Lambertenghi Romanin (past ferrata) to the summit and back via the Italian side past Marinelli to the saddle Passo Croce Carnico. Interested in how much walking there still is from the Italian side back to the Austrian side.
Anyway, I have a summer scouting tour ahead before the guided hike of the mountaineering club.

Thanks to all and mountaineering greetings
Matjaž Bohinc
(+1)like
IgorZlodej28. 05. 2013 19:41:22
This is quite confused. Plockenhaus is not the start for Valentin valley, Lambertenghi Romanin is the Italian hut from which it is possible via Spinotti path on the Italian side to Coglians summit. If guided trip, you will probably also have transport, so I don't know why you would walk on foot from the pass back to the start at lower Valentin pasture. Really need scouting tour to have at least some idea of those areas.
(+1)like
VanSims28. 05. 2013 19:59:00
If I understand correctly, the group that bohincm will lead will do exactly the same tour as I did (see above). 'Past ferrata', I understand as they will climb to Valentintorl and down to Wolayersee then Spinotti to summit. Description of this path is also on this portal. And from summit to Marinelli. If I'm not mistaken, from there to Plockenpass then another 2 hours.

And yes, from Plockenpass (passo Croce Carnico is the Italian name for the same pass) it is good to have transport back to Untere Valentinalm (see also my description above). So with car (also van, probably not bus) to Untere Valentinalm, on the return the same vehicle picks you up at Plockenpass. Or of course with two vehicles.
(+5)like
ljubitelj gora28. 05. 2013 22:01:55
Map in slightly larger size, start of the trail was on Austrian side.

http://shrani.si/f/1m/iW/2P9jTOnh/1/dsc02989.jpg

http://shrani.si/f/1/Bu/1za5LZjl/1.jpg

(+3)like
bohincm29. 05. 2013 19:00:43
Hello

Thanks "ljubitelj gora", because on the link http://shrani.si/f/1/Bu/1za5LZjl/1.jpg it's very nicely marked what I was looking for.
Since I haven't been there yet my previous description is probably really confusingly written. That's exactly why I'm going on reconnaissance. We'll use personal vehicles, so best to return to the same starting point. Thanks.
like
IgorZlodej29. 05. 2013 19:43:40
I suggest Tolazzi hut as starting point, because it's not exactly a short hike, but a long high alpine tour. LG did it without issues, but a group could have concrete problems - overnight in one of the huts.
(+3)like
bohincm1. 06. 2013 20:00:24
Overnight will be anyway. Time reserve must always be, group progresses slower than individual or small group anyway.
Thanks for your advice. In August reconnaissance for better picture and easier presentation to hikers.
Best Matjaž
like
DarjaZaplotnik1. 06. 2013 21:53:16
Well, we did the described tour in one go with a very well-seasoned group. In between climbed Rauchkofel too.

From Marinelli good two hours to Plockenpass, in between another ascent through huge window, nicely secured.

Tour really quite long, sleeping definitely recommended. Especially at some very romantic Marinelli to me.

best d nasmeh
(+3)like
tulipan20. 09. 2013 18:37:35

Summer without snow needs to be exploited.
To Colline from Medvode 195 km. From Colline to Marinelli hut two hours, same to summit. Back faster. Today alone with summit, tomorrow surely different.

https://plus.google.com/photos/113334581701584163856/albums/5925738021254753745
1
(+4)like
LidijaJesih23. 09. 2013 18:26:58
The Wolayersee hut wakes up at 7:00 in the morning, well, that's when you can get coffee and breakfast. Washbasin, new sanitary facilities, hot water and shower... used to our standards, you almost don't know what to do with all this comfort. http://www.wolayerseehuette-lesachtal.at/
Yesterday we climbed Rauchkofel (post there), today the champion of the Karnics awaits us. We start at the lakeshore towards the valley between both peaks, where we hiked yesterday. We follow the signs for Rauchkofel and Valetintörl; at the gate there is also a tablet-marked branch for Hohe Warte. But the branch is also earlier, just less noticeable. Before ascending to the saddle, there is a branch to the right to the north face; you need to look a bit right down, on a big boulder there is a sign. Follows the ascent to the scree, where the two paths split. Left, a bit traverse the scree is our today's path, named Prunner-Koban, the older, original path via the north face; straight up goes the 26iger (26th hunter battalion) path, newer, more equipped; I don't know how much it differs in difficulty, since we didn't go on it. Both are marked with a black dot on the signs. On the scree under the summit wall, they join into one. The Prunner-Koban path is characterized by quite a few free climbs, although cables appear on some sections too. It's hard to compare it to any of our paths. It's more demanding than Mrzla gora, longer than it, though much less crumbly. The route is marked with yellow arrows, it's followable, it's possible to find your own passage too; I think it never exceeds I, perhaps on the edge II. It requires care, as especially before stepping onto the upper scree it's occasionally sprinkled with scree; for us, the path was additionally enlivened by a few cm of snow on the path, which wasn't frozen. There was plenty for slippery rock. The crossing over the scree to the junction with the 26iger path was also snowy. When the paths join, the cable soon starts continuously. The path there still requires some thinking and searching for holds or steps here and there, but it's not very difficult. Despite the cold wind on the north side, it was warm on the south side, and the views from the summit beautiful. Peaks that I know poorly, some familiar in between, far back also Očak, then Viš and Montaž; closer only Peralba known among the famous ones. No opportunity for more yet... After recharging the soul and calves, we descend the south screes and cross to the Marinelli hut, which didn't rest at all but was fully occupied in the sunny afternoon; then along the path past the Morareeti dairy directly down the steps to the waiting bus. Beautiful two-day tour of PD Medvode, there were 13 of us, places where the heart has been and will be pulled.
morning greeting to the hut, where it is really very nice1
towards Valentintorl, we turn a little earlier2
towards the starting scree3
entrance wall, without protections4
we advance carefully5
here and there is a cable6
on the upper scree7
careful traverse8
path after both vias ferratas join9
glimpse from the ridge10
view down to the path we took yesterday11
just below the summit12
summit and bell13
the whole Očak was visible14
such views remind one of many things15
descent on the south side across the large scree16
back on green terrain, traverse towards Marinelli hut17
across steep meadow to the hut18
protective sign of Marinelli hut19
in about a month the picture will probably be even nicer when larches turn yellow20
mleka up to the ground21
enchanted, clean...22
(+2)like
VanSims23. 09. 2013 19:09:45
Well, I was waiting for a concrete experience from this path also on this portal because it tempts me too. You say 'harder than Mrzla gora'. I haven't been there yet, but what they say about it, hmmmm. I heard that on Koban-Prunner you need to climb a very long section II-. That it's less crumbly is of course to be expected, since those are Karnics and that is KSA.

Can it perhaps be compared to the SW ridge of Gartnerkofel? I climbed that and it's a similar route, unprotected and all in first grade, perhaps key spot II. Was the snow new or from the old winter (it often remains even in summer on that route, and now there was an abundant winter).

Thanks for the answers!
like
LidijaJesih23. 09. 2013 19:34:26
I can't give you a comparison with Gartnerkofel, because I wasn't there. But this Pruner has no II anywhere, at least it didn't seem so to me. Some slightly awkward passage, or sometimes you're awkward yourself. It does require attention, including for orientation. Mrzla gora isn't any pipsqueak either. As everywhere, you need to watch your feet and it's not exactly the first mountain you go to when you start. I really looked for a comparison, but I can't find one among ours. Everything ours is somewhat more dissected or crumblier. No fear, where the path goes, the legs go. The snow on the path was from the last snowfall.
like
IgorZlodej23. 09. 2013 20:26:25
The SW ridge of Krniške stene is a short stroll, but Coglians has a north wall in which you spend 2.5 to 3 hours, which is a substantial difference. Otherwise, there is an excellently secured climbing path of the 26th hunter regiment, which has been described many times, so there shouldn't be any major difficulties; of course, it's a path for appropriately prepared people, and in the lower part you also need arm strength. The ascent via the north wall can easily be done in one day from the starting point at the private Tolazzi hut.
(+1)like
VanSims24. 09. 2013 12:45:19
Just so no one is misled: the SW ridge of Krniške skale (Gartnerkofel) might be a stroll for Igor, otherwise it's climbing around I+, key spot II-. It's completely unprotected (sometimes there used to be some protections, allegedly), but nicely marked. It's indeed shorter (1.5 hours, of which walking is barely 15-20 min.).

Whoever wants to stroll to Krniške skale should go via the normal route from the upper cable car station.
like
Page:1234
You must log in to post a comment:
Username:
Password:
Login
If you do not yet have a username, you must first register.
         
Copyright © 2026 Hiking-trail.net, Terms of use, Privacy and cookies