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Monte Coglians / Hohe Warte

Rok28. 07. 2007 16:51:54

Yesterday 27.7. I was on the highest peak of the Carnic Alps - Monte Coglians (2780m). I started at Plockenpass pass from where I went along path 146 to Marinelli hut (2122m) and from there to the summit. Back I went past Wolayer See lake and then along the Austrian side (path 403) back to Plockenpass. The weather was mostly sunny, only at the summit some fog occasionally drifted in.

Best, Rok

Guest29. 07. 2007 23:17:42

This looks nice. How far is it from Ljubljana?

Guest30. 07. 2007 08:06:31

Hello! How much time did you take for this tour? What's the road like to the pass you started from? Is this an ascent for ordinary mortals or do you need to be half an alpinist already? Thanks and good luck!

Guest30. 07. 2007 12:32:39

I recommend reading the book by Andrej and Urška Stritar; Karnijska potepanja.

Rok30. 07. 2007 14:54:46

The road to the pass is wide and asphalted (border crossing between Italy and Austria). From the pass to the summit it's 5 hours according to signs. Back past Wolayer See lake it's at least another 5 hours. The return path drags on, maybe better to choose Tolazzi hut as starting point. The path is not particularly demanding, easier than e.g. Triglav. It seemed very similar to me as to Špik via Kačji graben (some scree and steep final ascent). There is also a path up the north face, which is much more demanding. Map (Tabacco 9): http://hribi.net/slike1/coglians782040.gif

triglavski25. 09. 2009 19:14:03

Although it's the highest peak in the Carnic Alps it's not particularly hard to reach. Yesterday Marjeta and I drove to the nice village of Collina and to the parking lot at the private Tolazzi hut. Since these areas are well known to us we took the already many times walked path towards Lambertenghi Romanin hut and over Wolaya saddle where we reached the idyllic Wolayer See lake. Although there are fish in the lake there are no algae at all, so even nicer motifs. Eduard Pichl Hütte obviously has its septic tanks properly arranged. Of course we don't stay long and continue towards the Gates, still below them we turn right under the north face, where we gear up, then climb the secured path Weg der 26er (26th hunter battalion). First straight up, then traverses left, quite modest steps, then up again, traverses right to the logbook and so on. In between we overtake two younger guys from Udine, one is not doing too well, he secures himself on three clips, which I saw for the first time, the second part is much easier, but we enter a foggy area, rocks wet, but since we have good footwear we don't slip, as we clip along the NW ridge towards the summit it suddenly clears up and at the pyramid on the summit the sun rewards us. We stay up there about an hour, then descend to the south side, turn to Marinelli hut, then back over the already closed Moraret alpine pasture to the parking lot. Since the weather forecast wasn't the best we headed home despite other plans.

two Austrian huts, one on the shore the other in the lake, yet the lake is completely clean

soon after the lake we stepped onto snow

soon it will be possible to ski again in Valentinova valley

here it turns onto the previously selected right path

Marinelli Hut will remain open until October 4.

..the alpine pasture has already been closed...

--the chamois will soon go into hibernation...

but St. Bernard will protect us further, I hope

(+1)

Klin25. 09. 2009 20:43:25

Nice

viharnik25. 09. 2009 21:05:02

I join Klin's opinion, nice tour, even nicer path descriptions that tell the essence, in short the icing on the cake. Such ones like that with triple securing are to be feared on tours and they are not rare in mountains. You never know when due to inverted securing only oneself and fear, one pushes oneself into the abyss.

IgorZlodej16. 03. 2010 19:19:35

I've already visited the highest border mountain of the Carnic Alps twice, from south and north, but never in winter, so the time has come to do that. Snow conditions, weather, avalanche danger, fitness and will, everything fell into place. With Rafko we drive to Forni Avoltri, from there to the nicest villages above the valley, of which especially the highest Collina stands out. From the village the road is plowed to Tolazzi hut, the road is quite icy though, but no problems. At the parking lot we prepare, then with skis along the road towards Moraret pasture. Of course we didn't need to go to the pasture, but could have turned left earlier, but no track was visible, at the pasture we simply overlooked it and went on towards Marinelli hut. I quickly realized the mistake, but since the terrain isn't passable everywhere with skis we climbed to some notch under Pic Chiadin, crossed it (with crampons of course) then continued through the wide valley towards the summit, which took several hours. In between we met two Italians already skiing down. The sun was pleasantly warming, snow releasing nicely and everything pointed to great skiing. Under some wall almost at the summit we dropped skis and geared up with crampons and ice axe, and set off to the summit. The steps or ski poles were well made and held nicely. So that the idyll wouldn't be quite perfect clouds came from the west and a snow shower was inevitable. Slowly we descended from the summit back to skis, skiing wasn't much due to clouds, and the already released snow started to freeze. Lower we caught some fresh powder, under the pasture nice heavy snow, so it won't fly too much on the road. Coglians from Tolazzi hut is not entirely innocent tour, steepness is pronounced in places, so extra careful when turning, to less experienced I recommend taking off skis and putting on crampons, of course they can end the tour below the summit, but then conscience won't be quite clear. Can go also under Cima di Mezzo. Anyway for those who don't like long ascents they can do the tour to Marinelli hut and the day will be almost perfect...,
....as ours was, even if sometimes some "provocator" appears, because of whom I don't worry at all and I ask you dear friends to ignore him, as it's not worth anyone engaging with him. And if I'm not here so often in winter now, you can still find me on the ski touring forum, and promotion up or down.

border mountains usually have more markers on summits

St. Bernard already peeking from under the snow

Dulči8. 07. 2010 19:43:17

Does maybe someone know if the path from Obere Valentinalm hut to Wolayer See is snow-free.
Thanks

IgorZlodej9. 07. 2010 21:00:30

Possible there's still some snow patch, but the valley is quite wide there, so it can be bypassed, otherwise I don't know why snow is a problem, since you're not walking barefoot. Snow is actually so pleasant for walking, anyway much better than on some scree.

(+1)

panda10. 07. 2010 08:00:08

Of course there is some fear of crossing snow, Igor. Is the crossing steep, long, and some other dilemma could be found. I myself am not a fan of crossing steep snowfields with dangerous runouts. What can we do, not everyone is equally fast, bold and uncompromising (crampons on feet, ice axe in hand and off to the snow). I think for us - most, snow means a certain degree of detour for the ascent, if the snowfield is demanding for the average "gravelhead". No offense. Best regards nasmeh

Dulči10. 07. 2010 15:13:01

Wheel

mirank2. 08. 2010 23:34:39

Yesterday we did a nice trip to the king of the Carnics. Ascent from Tolazzi hut along the Spinoti path very nice until junction with path from Marinelli hut and a bit further where the nasty scree starts. Quite a few visitors at the top, so the last hundred meters need to be watched carefully so you don't get something on your head. Descent past Marinelli quick and easy. Looks like it didn't snow in Carnia, as we didn't see fresh snow anywhere.

IgorZlodej23. 02. 2011 19:51:33

Monte Coglians or in German Hohe Warte - Visoka Preža, the highest mountain of the Carnic Alps, a real ski touring jewel is always worth a visit. The Bovec part of the Bovec-Ljubljana group, which however has no genuine Bovec guy, already agreed on this tour on Saturday. So in the windy and cold morning we drive to Tolazzi hut. The road from Colina village onwards to Tolazzi hut is plowed and snowy, but nicely drivable. At the parking lot there's an Italian who says he already finished the tour due to wind. The news causes some doubts, but we don't give up. We dress a bit warmer and already walk along the road towards Moraret pasture, there's a track or better snowshoe trail. Before the pasture we turn left, actually along the road, but only to the next right bend of the road that leads to Marinelli hut, there directly up. Snow mostly dry, powder or soft slush, on steep parts also windpacked. Very little left of the old track, so mostly we make our own. Whoever knows the south slope of Coglians knows that the valleys that flatten out here and there have no end. We persistently grind through almost untouched snowy expanses towards the top, some faster others a bit slower. After the "wall" before the final part we set up a kind of "high camp". Yes, the wind pulled well occasionally lower down, but here right below the summit it was completely calm. As each arrived at the "high camp" so they also headed to the summit and descended. When around 14:30 we all gathered again in the "camp" after successful ascent to the top we skied down together towards the start. Of course due to the length it took and took, 80% powder, the rest soft to hard slush or some light crust. Rating at Tolazzi was of course excellent. Views vast and hard to describe, company excellent (Rafko, Zdenko, Vinko), in short a nicely spent ski touring day.

for warming up along the road, among trees peeks Cima Ombladet

In the Julian Alps it was partly cloudy and apparently very windy

Zdenc and Vinko are returning from the summit and then it begins....

all the way to the car doors at Rifugio Tolazzi

IgorZlodej5. 08. 2011 20:24:17

Trilogy Grossglockner - Montaž - Coglians, three kings of their areas High Tauern - Western Julian Alps - Carnic Alps, in three days. Excellent company, what more could one want. In the morning at Tolazzi hut it's a washed sunny day. At Lambertenghi Romanin hut short chat with the warden who complains about no summer at all and even worse attendance. Follows continuation past Volaja lake to the entry of secured path 26 mountain hunter battalion. Start steep, almost vertical, higher up the path eases a bit, all progress nicely and soon we're at the top. Break, snack, views rather poor, feelings still great. Follows descent to south side and to Marinelli hut. Liquid refreshment and on across Moraret pasture to the start at Tolazzi hut. For those for whom the summit is too high I recommend path Tolazzi - Lambertenghi hut - Spinotti path - Marinelli hut and back to Tolazzi.

descent to the south side is not difficult

here below in winter there is one of the most beautiful touring ski descents

rozka5. 08. 2011 22:19:04

And we were on the same path today velik nasmeh

...well, this tour was...from a real green walk straight into a vertical wall, especially in the initial part, well, later I could even look around a bit jezik

But since today everything was about the ascent, it outweighed the fog and not the best view, not to mention the fun company velik nasmeh

from Polinik to Creta di Timau with Monte Paularo and Dimon at the end

mimohar16. 08. 2011 09:53:16

Highest peak of the Carnic Alps? Why not. On Sunday, 14.08, Andrej and I among all others also did the ascent via the 26er via ferrata. Nice via ferrata, magnificent views, only a bit annoying was the crowd in the via ferrata. We descended to the south side towards Marinelli hut, but already before turned right on the secured path back to Wolaya saddle and so back to coffee at Tolazzi.

IgorZlodej8. 12. 2011 18:52:14

When driving past Tolmezzo the first sun rays caressed the Carnic mountains, what a beautiful sight. Cappuccino at Villa Santini was as always excellent, the barmaid wishes me a nice day. Road from Forni Avoltri towards Colina was a bit icy and sprinkled with snow. Wind ruled over the mountains. Parking at Tolazzi hut was empty. I'll go, I say to myself and first along the road, then trail, right below Moraretto pasture back on the road, but not far as soon as I turn left onto unmarked path that brings me to one of the wide valleys on the south side of Coglians. Ahead of me at least three who made the trail, snow dry, in drifts up to 40 cm, otherwise not much. Wind roared and carried gritty snow, it was smoking. One would say here it's winter, but when the wind occasionally died down and December sun still pleasantly warms, but I wasn't hot, although I didn't walk slowly. Somewhere in the middle of these beautiful valleys I catch up with the three, just then they went somewhere right, but quickly return. I thank them for the trail and go on. Below the summit steeper part I put on crampons, take ice axe in hand and go to the top. Much easier in winter when everything is snowed over, now occasionally scratching on rock. From NW side on summit it blows honestly and especially coldly. I ring, take pictures and go a bit lower. In that time Italians arrive at summit, of course we congratulate. They say from Belluno. I didn't stay up long, as the valley is far. Descent in steep part quick, lower also good, meet one more. Below turn left and step onto Cima Armando (Pic Chiadin), then down to Marinelli hut and on past Moraretto pasture to start. Coglians is the king of Carnic Alps and at year end once more looking from highest over this beautiful range is really pleasant.

Charming villages at almost 1300 m above sea level

To the south one could see all the way to the sea

Even after 12:00 it is still quite windy.

the Marinelli hut has a wonderful panoramic location

(+5)

rinča8. 12. 2011 19:12:58

What a nice path you chose, looking at the photos I relived some memories... That part from Moraretto pasture along the unmarked trail is exceptionally beautiful.

(+2)

IgorZlodej25. 02. 2012 18:06:02

This time we drove to the Carnic Alps. I knew snow conditions were a disaster, but I didn't expect it to look so bad (at least from afar).

We left Val Fleons as quickly as we arrived. Then we drove to Tolazzi hut. Some snow was visible, the road was snowy, so we said let's go, if not higher at least to Marinelli hut.

Sunny day indeed, although quite overmelted, snow on the road trodden by skiers and snowshoers. Above Moraretto pasture almost bare slopes. At Marinelli hut we snacked, then traversed trail 145 to a small saddle. Valley below Coglians looked snow-poor from afar, but we descended into it anyway and went up through it, reaching below Coglians wall. There we donned crampons, ice axe in hands and after 20 min already ringing at the pyramid. View as always from the highest of the Carnic Alps very nice, this time mountain only ours nasmeh

. Descent to skis followed, then skiing initially quite solid, of course rotten snow, lower a bit of everything, only no powder which last year was in abundance, this time none. Skied to car. Given current snow conditions do not recommend.