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Montaž

briner30. 07. 2008 22:05:03

Curious if the path to Montaž is harder or more demanding than Tominšek's path to Triglav. How is the protection? Are there multiple paths? Is it exposed? LP

Rok30. 07. 2008 22:26:34

The easiest path is probably via Pipan's ladder:
http://www.hribi.net/pot.asp?gorovjeid=1&id=629&potid=1128

andrejp4. 08. 2008 09:56:38

With Janez we went to Montaž yesterday. Since it was our first time in that area, I also took a copy of the route description I got from these pages. We had older maps of the western Julians with us, which turned out super. So instead of sharp left at the hut on planina Pecol we went straight ahead and then figured we were obviously heading first to Špik Hude police. Below the summit we noticed a path leading to ferrata Leva, which we then returned from the summit on. We were accompanied by constant whistling of marmots and of course chamois. I've never seen them so close. Ferrata Leva is nicely secured, the protections look new and it really satisfied our needs for more exposed paths. We came out on Via normale, somewhat below Pipan's ladder. Shame, because just then a cloud hung over the summit, so the view of surrounding peaks was limited. Back we headed to bivouac Suringar. The path is exposed, without protections, so we'll do it in the opposite direction next time. One more experience. Below the wall we dashed down the scree and later stopped at the hut on the planina for "Italian express". Fantastic day and even nicer tour.

andrejp4. 08. 2008 12:17:16

The easiest is surely via Pipan's ladder. Past the bivouac it's climbing without protections, the third approach is via ferrata Leva, which is well secured but quite precipitous.

morris8. 08. 2008 17:43:25

Does anyone perhaps know how it is with Via Amalia to Montaž? Are the protections ok?

benjamin720. 08. 2008 16:25:04

I'm wondering if anyone knows what purpose that ore just below the Montaž summit served. We see it along the path over Pipan's ladder, when we reach the ridge and turn left towards the summit itself. There's also some concrete and decaying wood visible... Thanks for the answer.

Otherwise a very nice tour. Recommended loop past bivouac Suringar up (poorly protected "with primal scent of J. Kugy") and down via Pipan's ladder).

triglavski20. 08. 2008 19:34:52

First about that ore. It's of course coal that served the Italian Alpini when they stayed at the high-altitude observatory. In all these years it's of course completely turned to stone. Concrete and beams are remnants of the observatory. The Austrians also had something similar on Viš.
From bivouac Surnigar a climbing path leads through Findenge névé and of course it was never secured and I hope it stays that way. Wire ropes are on Visoka polica in connection with Via Amalio, which comes up from Zajzera gora.

benjamin720. 08. 2008 19:53:33

Thanks for the clarification regarding the ore. Regarding the path through Findenge névé, I also agree that it's not drilled with pitons and riddled with cables, but it would perhaps be appropriate to have a warning (sign) before entering this path in Italian and also in Slovenian, that this is a very demanding path. Often hikers come to Montaž from very far away and see on the map only the circular option to conquer Montaž, nothing is written about its danger. Of course not everyone reads internet messages by far. So to understand each other, it would be right to mention this at the very entrance. It's fair that every (first) approacher has a clear choice which path to choose, of course according to their abilities and also their adrenaline thirst.
Good luck!

triglavski20. 08. 2008 20:44:46

A trifle. Regarding warning signs, of course they would be welcome, but there are simply too many paths and placing signs would be nonsensical. In some places they make an effort and have signs at the entrances, mainly for ferratas where a via ferrata set and helmet are needed. Otherwise, thorough familiarization with the path is part of tour preparation. If we familiarize ourselves well, nothing can surprise us. There are very few paths described on the internet, there are numerous really good guidebooks and of course alpine maps. Italian Tabacco maps are very good and you can already assess from the map what kind of path it is, red lines are normal path-trail, crosses mark secured paths, dotted path with a drawn climber is a clear sign that it's a climbing path or ascent route. Usually in tour preparation we determine the ascent and descent route, up the harder one, down the easier, if there's only one path, we have no choice but to descend the same.

ggombo119. 09. 2008 15:10:03

Maybe someone knows what the conditions on Montaž are like?? I'm interested, on Sunday I'd go from planina Pecol... thanks for info. lp! Gašper

triglavski19. 09. 2008 17:44:02

A small amount of snow might be in Finden's névé, otherwise everything is dry to the top if you go via Pipan, no problem.

ggombo119. 09. 2008 20:13:12

Yes, I meant Pipan ladder. Thanks for info! lp! Gašper

Pujska20. 09. 2008 07:11:44

Gasper, tell how it was. Planning Montaz next weekend. Thanks and cheers!
nasmeh

michael6620. 09. 2008 11:12:46

On Tuesday there was little snow on the neighboring peak, only last 50 m (elevation). But Montaz is 300 m higher.

below the summit of the neighboring spire h.p.

ggombo121. 09. 2008 17:02:49

So, today on Montaz, clear at top, cloudy foggy below. Nice view of Grossglockner too... Started Planina Pecol, right at saddle, over Pipan ladder to summit, back same way. Fixes impeccable. Lots of chamois ibex marmots. I also off track start from hut Brazza straight (Spik steep slabs), turned back soon path too right. In short nice mountaineering day! Best regards! Gasper

triglavski22. 07. 2009 18:13:57

The King of the Western Julians is always nice to visit. This time Maja joined on the path, I know her experience, no dilemma to summit via Findenegg gully. Blooming resinous grass meadows of Planina Pecol quickly done. At Škrbina Vrh Strmali turned left to Velika polica. To bivouac Adriano Suringar cross two snowfields, actually bypassed climbing, no special danger. Of course to bivouac to look into Dunja depths, sign, then back left to Findenegg gully. Easy start climbing goats with kids then shady gully to ridge view to High Turs. Some easier ridge climbing then ringing summit bell. Stayed long then descend normal path Pipan ladder down to snowfield edges above screes. To lower scree nothing special, on scree shortened a lot then grassy plains to hut Brazza, cold Gäser irresistible nor alp with famous Montasio. As always nice ascent some fogs not too bad otherwise too hot.

bos30. 07. 2009 14:01:25

Yesterday did same tour, morning still nice views then clouds gathering around peaks.
What about last pic - at hut Brazza? Better Gäser than 3 euros velik nasmeh

!
Best regards

krasovc30. 07. 2009 23:21:56

Well in Slovenian it goes fine, Italian writes that you pay 3 euros for just the space, if you have your own snack, if you just need to sit... It's almost better to act Slovenian, that way you at least get a beer for those 3 euros. velik nasmeh

triglavski31. 07. 2009 09:12:00

Well beer is a bit more expensive than 3€, but when you get down from Montaž it always feels good to sit on that view terrace and sip it, since it's always earned.

Rok10. 08. 2009 13:16:58

On Thursday I went from Planina Zajzera past bivouac Stuparich and via Via Amalia path to bivouac Suringar. Just before the bivouac there was a snowfield that could be bypassed.
From the bivouac I continued over Findenegg gully to the summit.
From the summit I descended via Pipan ladder and went on to Vrh Brda (2661m).
Continued on Leva path to Špik Hude police and further over Špik nad Nosom and Špik nad Špranjo all the way to Škrbina prednje Špranje from where I descended back to the start at Planina Zajzera.
The fixed aids on the whole route were fine.
LP Rok