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Mangart via Via della Vita ferrata

IgorZlodej7. 09. 2011 20:20:30

First freely up some wider gully, then protections follow, almost vertical cable, then over Huda škrbina again some protections and crossing steep exposed grass to junction with Italian path to Mangart summit. If you manage Via della Viti without issues, no problems here either.

freeskies7. 09. 2011 20:29:15

On Saturday we went via Via della Viti to Trbiški bivak. Path is officially closed, protections poor in some places, otherwise ok. Two brackets hidden. One bracket where path goes vertical above ledge (best photo spot) looks ok but wobbles when grabbed and not suitable for foot load.
From exit of vertical ferrata part to junction for Trbiški bivak and on to Vevnica path practically unprotected (rusted piton remains show it was once). Fun slab scrambling, not overly exposed.

CarpeDiem2477. 09. 2011 20:30:46

No problem, hm, already the entry was extremely problematic, or by myself I might not have even managed to enter the route, but my buddy belayed me. Then we did some neck-breaking descent to our side, from the top of Vevnica to Kotovo sedlo, along some abandoned path - weird thing, crumbly like a pig (with twisted ankle even more so)! velik nasmeh

freeskies7. 09. 2011 20:38:58

CarpeDiem, when did you guys do it? Looks like we took the same route nasmeh

. We then went to Vevnica, return to the bivouac and descent to some abandoned gully (marked), where you climb up the gully and then traverse to Kotovo sedlo. Fun path mežikanje

. Ankle ok already?
PS: entry to Via della Viti (first 3 meters) is in my opinion the hardest part of the ferrata nasmeh

CarpeDiem2477. 09. 2011 20:50:27

That was in 2008, September! Ankle is already fine, fairly nasmeh

Actually the entry to Via della Viti is the hardest, then everything else was great, we also got lucky that the chain was lowered, otherwise it can apparently be very interesting.

Later we wanted to descend quickly from Vevnica along some scree (direct to Tamar), but at the end we were surprised by a few hundred meters of almost vertical, followed by re-ascent up the scree and only then across very steep grass to that Pradavni pass towards Kotovo sedlo and that interesting bivouac hidden under a huge rock. nasmeh

At the start we had three planned for Via della Viti, but one chickened out already when he couldn't enter the route and said the mountain gave him a sign not to let him on, hehe velik nasmeh

freeskies7. 09. 2011 20:56:58

Now I get where you went, you bypassed Kotovo špica.

CarpeDiem2477. 09. 2011 21:00:30

Yes, somehow we bypassed it on the eastern side and (in injured state) it wasn't cool walking at all! Especially horrible when you descend very quickly over scree (that's when I drank all the fluid too, because the goal seemed close), then followed re-ascent over scree, crisis cool

freeskies7. 09. 2011 21:06:39

Yes, there at the saddle between Vevnica and V koncu špice it looks apparently passable scree all the way down to Tamaraja. If you look carefully, you see it breaks off at the bottom nasmeh

. Otherwise there would surely be a path and everyone would go down the scree. Well, good that it turned out well for you! That "path" you took to Kotovo sedlo is probably some remnant of the Trent wild hunters' trail who came hunting to Carniola mežikanje

CarpeDiem2477. 09. 2011 21:12:39

If I remember correctly, we even saw some remnants of rusted ancient cables (I'm talking about that part where you say wild hunters' trail), so there used to be a path there, unfortunately abandoned now.

freeskies7. 09. 2011 21:33:16

Only memories of the good old days remain mežikanje

2061alessio10. 09. 2011 14:36:10

Hi, I got unofficial info that FJK mountain guides fixed ferrata "via della vita", please if someone does it up or down let me know and take pics, thanks in advance.

nata2411. 09. 2011 16:32:43

Today was a day for ferratas. From Mangart lakes via Via Italiana to Mangart. On the way all ok. Descent over grass towards Škrbina and towards Mali Koritniški Mangart. Markings are very faded, but plenty of cairns and no problem finding the path. From MKM towards Tarvisio bivouac is very crumbly and you need to be really careful as everything flies. Uphill probably no problem. Then also via Via Della Vita back to the valley. They really fixed this route. At the iron plates now there's a cable, and even at some places where there wasn't before, they added it.

janez95812. 09. 2011 09:35:49

Hi, 10-11 Sept I went through Via della vita, which is nicely renovated. Still attached drilling remnants. Everything holds like glued. Maybe need to add some cable in the lower part, towards Vevnica summit.

freeskies12. 09. 2011 20:23:07

Yesterday we climbed Via della vita to Vevnica, traversed Ponc ridge and descended via ferrata back to Laghi di Fusine. Via della vita is renovated in some spots, especially under the viewpoint ledge - new cable added next to the old one up to halfway, higher up old cable still OK. Cable added also at two spots on the "plates" under the chimney. Overall protections are solid, but one peg is still loose as I wrote before.
On Ponc ridge there's secured descent from Vevnica to notch towards Strug and descent down slope to Srednja Ponca. These are the only spots on the ridge where protections are needed IMHO. Elsewhere rusted and torn. Of course speaking for those who like to climb and enjoy relatively solitary exposed paths. If fully renovated, it'd probably get mass tourism...

Descent into the notch from Vevnica towards Strug

ksena3. 10. 2011 12:06:37

From parking at Laghi di Fusine, my friend and I aimed for ridge traverse from Vevnica to Mangart. After Via della vita ferrata which is open as announced, new cable installed at the problematic belly wall spot easing the ascent. After short break at Bivacco Tarvisio, up poorly marked path to entry of secured climbing section to Koritniški Mangart, which by our estimate maybe even a bit harder than the ferrata itself or requires more skill. Route continuation on scree guided by sparse cairns, sometimes decide independently. In fog orientation hard and walking not recommended. During traverse descend deep into notch and reclimb steep grass to saddle in last quarter to Mangart. Summit crowded as expected for easiest 2000er (if driving to saddle at 2000+), but we sat for a while anyway. Worth it, views magnificent. Descended Italian path to turnoff for Bivacco Nogara and past it to start.
Timetable... just for orientation:
Parking - ferrata entry - 2h
ferrata to Bivacco Tarvisio - 1.5h
bivouac - Mangart summit - 2.5h
Mangart - start - 2.5h.
Hiking and all stops from car to car 10h.

Možic and road to Mangart in the background

Passage over the fence to the path towards Bivak Nogara

ogo15. 10. 2011 15:26:21

Hi!

Can someone tell me if the path is dry or where there might be problems?

Best

ogo19. 10. 2011 14:21:24

Yesterday we managed the mentioned route. As for the path, it's very very poorly marked IMHO. Had to really search for it. At the rock with memorial we climbed straight under the wall, which was completely wrong as we found out later. From Bivacco Busettini, easiest to find the path with cairns. Thanks to predecessors. We added some stones ourselves to make it more visible. Only issue was icy descent to wall entry where chain is. The rope is torn there. Otherwise nice autumn day spent.

behind us is the entrance to the wall, but we kept to the right - next time it will be better

(+1)

ljubitelj gora26. 10. 2011 21:42:43

@ogo
So you finally managed the most demanding tour, only then do I know which icing you were talking about.

zvončnica31. 08. 2012 14:25:16

This time we wanted Via della Vita ferrata (path of life), once Via della Morte (path of death). For me it's as beautiful as life is velik nasmeh

. For some time my friend and climbing partner and I had been thinking about it, agreed and started at 6am from Mangart saddle.
When approaching Mangart saddle in morning, we spotted lights quite high on Mangart, almost under the summit, flashed them, they winked back with headlamp, oh nice jezik

, lucky them we said, just about to see sunrise so high jezik

. The day start was positive, simply awesome velik nasmeh

From Mangart saddle left down to Bivacco Nogara, crossed two scree fields and down left through forest to junction for Via della Vita ferrata. There it meets path from Laghi di Fusine start. Then up to ferrata entry.
Via della Vita ferrata is varied, scenic, airy and well equipped/protected, in one word gorgeous.
In ferrata we shrieked several times because of the echo velik nasmeh

.
At Bivacco Tarvisio we rested, refueled, admired surroundings and continued over Koritniški Mali Mangart (path very poorly marked, took time and effort). At Koritniški Mali Mangart lit candle for late Tamara Likar and Pavel Podgornik who sadly died in 1982 in north face of Mangart. Continued to Huda Škrbina, over Strme Trave needing care and descended where path joins Italian path from Mangart back to saddle.
It was D-day as they say, nice sunny flawless, saw all we wanted from each summit, climbing just right for one day velik nasmeh