|
| ZKlemen21. 12. 2010 14:50:10 |
I need some advice. My girlfriend and I will enroll next year in the mountaineering school at PD Matica. The school includes the winter part of the mountaineering season as well. We already have most of the summer gear because we do sport climbing. For winter we're still shopping. Would these gojzarji discounted in Kibuba (http://www.kibuba.com/index.php?pID=3577) be suitable for the level of the mountaineering school at Matica? The program includes icefall climbing as well, and I'm not sure if it's better to have automatic rather than semi-automatic crampons. I'll be grateful for advice.
|
|
|
|
| aljazek21. 12. 2010 15:25:32 |
Well, you know what the deal is, it completely depends on how much winter alpinism will pull you in further. I preferred to spend some more € and bought a real winter boot - better insulation, automatic crampons, stiffness, etc. If you need it only for completing the alpin. school (at least that's how you posed the question, as if you need the boot only for the course completion, then end), then they are probably fine.
|
|
|
|
| JusAvgustin21. 12. 2010 15:25:33 |
For icefalls definitely more suitable are automatic crampons and a boot with a stiff sole, which should be as light as possible. Otherwise, one can climb some icefalls and many gullies with semi-automatics. I swear by automatic crampons (climbing and hiking)
lpp
|
|
|
|
| ZKlemen21. 12. 2010 21:12:17 |
Thanks for the advice. We decided on bigger Gojzarje with an adapter for automatic crampons, since we'll probably climb quite a lot after the course. At least for now, we're both enthusiastic about the idea.
|
|
|
|
| aljazek21. 12. 2010 22:58:02 |
On January 4th there are usually footwear sales, where I got my boots 100€ cheaper :-) It's worth waiting.
|
|
|
|
| GričarA1. 01. 2011 21:03:12 |
I'm buying boots for winter hikes in the range up to 250€
for now I've looked at La Sportiva KARAKORUM PRO GTX and TRANGO S EVO GTX, if you know others tell me.
They must have attachment at least for semi-automatic crampons. Use only for walking not for icefalls or climbing.
Thanks for advice.
|
|
|
|
| aljazek1. 01. 2011 21:31:10 |
Now there should be sales, I'd look at Trango Prime... comfortable, softer and quality model.
|
|
|
|
| GričarA1. 01. 2011 21:43:53 |
I know there are sales that's why I'm buying  , otherwise the prospectus for Trango Prime says it's for ice climbing.
Weight doesn't matter to me since I won't use them for climbing.
|
|
|
|
| klm1. 01. 2011 21:51:20 |
GričarA: Trango S Evo is not a winter boot, but a summer one, primarily made for Dolomite ferratas; where sudden weather changes - black ice possibility - and crossing snowfields and glaciers occur, hence the slot for semi-automatic crampons. For not too ambitious winter hikes they are suitable, but note they are not sufficiently thermally insulated, synthetic leather Lorica and Cordura don't provide long-term water resistance (not waterproof as no boot really is!) despite impregnation over time in any sinking snow. In this case Karakorum is much better choice. I'd definitely prefer it over Trango Prime, which is as described by aljazek, but I'd add it's also like Trango S very sensitive to moisture - it absorbs it quickly inside...food for thought. Written from first hand and own experience...
|
|
|
|
| KristinaG1. 01. 2011 22:00:30 |
GričarA: I have La Sportiva Trango S Evo GTX. I use them now too, in winter time. Extremely happy with the boot, comfortable, fit nicely to the foot... They don't soak through, even though I walk a lot in snow. True, it's not a winter boot. I have no problems with cold feet. True, I never have special problems with cold. 
|
|
|
|
| JusAvgustin1. 01. 2011 22:32:29 |
yeah, until one day you get frostbite it's all hihi haha, I've used LS karakorum pro gtx so far, incredible boot, with them I climbed a lot in winter (all kinds of winter alpinism), never cold, true they are 4-season, heavy over 2kg and need breaking in... I'd trust "klm", expert is expert. karakorum served me a year and a half well, extremely satisfied, but it reached end of its climbing career... time for new ones
|
|
|
|
| sodnick1. 01. 2011 23:38:52 |
Since there's debate on boots I have a question. Lately I've been tempted to hike more in mountains also in winter and will get ice axe and crampons. Currently using Scarpa Ladakh (leather/leather) variant.
Question is: should I buy new boots and at least semi-auto crampons or get universal ones and keep current boots? Very happy with them, never blistered, never soaked (regularly impregnate). No intention to climb, but would like winter trips to Stol, Storžič and similar where crampons and axe often mandatory.
Smart advice from experienced?
|
|
|
|
| klm2. 01. 2011 07:48:52 |
Sodnick, my answer is simple: why complicate things and spend money if it's not needed and you're happy with your current footwear. Three decades ago only classic crampons were known, no one complained (well, almost  ). Today there are very good classic crampons with embracing plastic both front and rear and a single strap like the semi/auto version. True, your boots are primarily summer ones, but reasonably well thermally insulated due to leather inside (at least older models, now they combine with Gore-Tex), so more attention to wax impregnation, especially tongue and toe bend area. There the leather cracks if not maintained, especially drying too close to heat.
In short, I'd first look at Grivel classic G10 crampons, then Black Diamond, Stubai... Here I attached a product review I'd take if I were in your place...
[English review text translated/adapted similarly but kept structure as is for product spec]
|
|
|
|
| sodnick2. 01. 2011 08:58:55 |
What about CAMP crampons? I looked at the Stalker model.
|
|
|
|
| GričarA2. 01. 2011 11:02:10 |
Two weeks ago I was on a safe movement course at IGU, where they said classic crampons are a bad buy and discourage them, because you spend a lot of time attaching them to the boot (in winter when it's cold problem). You also need a stiff boot sole for crampons so it doesn't twist. But since this is a topic about boots I'll ask if it's worth adding those 50€ and buying NEPAL EXTREME or Garmont MOUNTAIN GUIDE GTX
|
|
|
|
| klm2. 01. 2011 11:42:50 |
Regarding attachment it's like this: with new models with the mentioned plastic every user will spend 3 to 5 seconds more than with semi-automatics or the time will be equivalent to automatics. They also have just one tubular or strap - like semi/autos, which also needs to be threaded through the front hole or second and that's it. I don't know why they would be softer, unless we talk about Grivel G10 Wide which are for touring skiers, otherwise stiffness is similar, the plastic itself sticks to the boot in cold.
if classic crampons weren't suitable producers would have removed them from production... if we talk serious winter ascents, mixed routes I'd definitely go for semi/automatic crampons. For classic winter mountaineering they are OK; if they slip it'll happen both with classic and semi/autos when tying in.
Camp Stalker crampons lack nothing: they lose glaze quickly, then oxidize, rust which is ultimately good; If they weren't OK they wouldn't have so many buyers here and abroad. But personally I put Grivel products first.
GričarA: First try the boots. Between the mentioned models I'd definitely choose Extreme, otherwise try both, maybe Garmont last would suit you better though such cases are extremely rare. But the mentioned Karakorum is also excellent choice.
|
|
|
|
| aljazek2. 01. 2011 11:51:49 |
@GričarA: when I bought boots, I tried both Nepal Extreme and Karakorum, the difference is really unbelievable. Now I use Nepal Extreme and they are really incredible - comfortable, warm, precise, just right stiff. True though, I use them for everything: winter approaches, couloirs, ice climbing...
|
|
|
|
| sodnick2. 01. 2011 12:24:43 |
I also thought about stiffer boots, but talked to some guys and most said for mixed hikes where you need crampons only last third of the way, the first two thirds you walk in forest in too stiff boots which usually aren't comfortable.
Advantage of universal crampons is of course compatibility with all boots, so you can use same crampons on summer trips with lighter boots for crossing some snowfield.
Anyway thanks a lot for advice.
|
|
|
|
| climber732. 01. 2011 12:45:03 |
Try Bestard boots, proven. They have all models (winter and summer). Might seem like advertising but I haven't had better boots.
|
|
|
|
| capin3. 01. 2011 09:26:26 |
For Planika which is no more, Millet are best at least for me. Since no fittings for automatic crampons, I just use classic CAMP Stalker. As klm said mounting takes 3 seconds longer, size you adjust at home. Milletbouthain boots are just right stiff, at the same time warm and comfy. Anyway try how they fit your foot. Best regards.
|
|
|
You must log in to post a comment:
If you do not yet have a username, you must first
register.