Gulleys, icefalls, winter alpine ascents
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| tompa8515. 03. 2013 17:34:46 |
Thanks! You just confirmed what I thought myself.
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| tompa8515. 03. 2013 17:35:40 |
I'll wait for better conditions, but it's not easy 
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| jedriličar15. 03. 2013 17:51:34 |
We're all waiting already two months like cocked rifles, but when it can't, it can't ... it's not said without reason: patience - salvation ... better to wait a little more, than for some avalanche to take you, and they find you when the snow melts ...
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| 1mitjas3. 12. 2013 21:17:02 |
This year's winter is so far very generous. Already in November it gave us enough snow for proper touring skiing, and at the end of the month it sent frost too.
In recent years I've traditionally opened the ice climbing season in Logar Valley, and this year was the same. Today Sašo and I drove there to check the condition of the icefalls. Despite the severe frost (it was still -8 at 10 a.m. when we were heading home), most icefalls still lack a bit.
We climbed Palenk and the Waterfall above the path. Both are climbable provided you don't need ice screws for climbing icefalls of this difficulty. If you can't without them, I recommend another week of patience.
The other icefalls aren't ready yet; Skušnjava looks the best. For those heading there in the coming days, a tip: take climbing shoes with you; climbing in Peče is still quite nice. Pictures at: http://gorski.vodnik.alpinizem.net/blog/
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| ljubitelj gora1. 03. 2014 20:53:37 |
I'm interested in pros and cons for these couloirs now filled but temps are a bit high. Igor Z. mentioned couloirs are dangerous in spring, no doubt as everything is more unstable than in winter, but in winter snow transformation takes longer.
Is there any literature on couloirs, dangers...? tnx
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| JusAvgustin27. 01. 2015 06:57:32 |
Yesterday with Dr. Ejči (for friends Andro  ) in Teranova route at Jezersko. After previous consultation it was a top choice. Fresh snow did its thing but the route is nicely climbable all the way, just at two places the ice is a bit thinner and you need to get over without banging. New snowfall on Saturday did its thing as we literally drilled the exit gully and cauldron. The traverse was a bit to look at due to new snow, but still over without major problems. We also drilled the whole descent through Žrelo. Recommend having ice screws, all stances except the last one (before the cauldron) are within arm's reach. It lacks a shipment of snow. No doubt. But it was nice, especially at Kanonirju...
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| meti5727. 01. 2015 07:13:39 |
Bravo Juši my,,, take care of us!
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| skalaš7027. 01. 2015 07:21:17 |
Looks nice and all congrats!
Safe step further...
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| ms_primoz27. 01. 2015 07:33:57 |
You're good to climb after that... just safe further.
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| BT8827. 01. 2015 08:23:27 |
Nice nice Jus such nice mix it is
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| Berzo27. 01. 2015 10:25:38 |
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| mailman27. 01. 2015 18:38:04 |
Very good!!! At Kanonir they probably used pendulum technique, huh??? 
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| gj27. 01. 2015 18:54:24 |
Thanks for the report. As for Kanonir, maybe they used the conquering technique too . Lp. Good luck
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| _d_28. 01. 2015 08:14:30 |
More such pics. I admire. Me too someday, one day, when I'm big. 
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| knap42277. 02. 2015 23:29:54 |
Today Tamar offered very good conditions for first ice tour. Climbed Centralec - via curtain left or right as desired, only upper part a bit hollow. Still in very good condition: Slap nad votlino, right one and Sveča, the latter in similar condition (at least from afar) I haven't seen yet. No pics sorry.
Lp Matej
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