Ferrata Ožarjeni kamen in Bohinj
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| VanSims18. 11. 2018 20:46:32 |
I didn't know about the second part either. Why no signpost? Obviously a local secret...
Well nothing, gotta go again in spring. Looks pretty tough though.
That part with C(C/D?), I know exactly which one. It'll be C/D imo. Even in the upper part of the first part you can find some.
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| janezs7319. 11. 2018 09:31:24 |
It's a real shame such a nicely routed path is "hidden". Plus for safety, people should know the difficult spots in it. Deserves a sign or at least a description...
Don't recommend going up when the sun starts baking. I'd be really scared of snakes. Often (esp. up top) the cable goes through bushes and grass, ground and holes... gives me chills thinking it'd be hot there. Can be very early spring... Winter seems best time (if not much snow).
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| 2emeREI23. 11. 2018 11:07:25 |
janezs73 this path was routed and paid by someone alone from his pocket, so we can be happy it exists at all, I helped him a bit on upper part LP
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| janezs7325. 11. 2018 12:53:54 |
2emeREI: I'd rather frame things broader and more ambitiously, otherwise issues can arise. Aware of all difficulties and env protests...
No mistake - very glad path exists. As said - route perfect. Details shame. Maybe next time action on hribih.net to collect contrib for such path. I'd add myself to ditch that dirty cable up top.
Believe best things are those we start ourselves.
Hope my path scheme clearly shows it's sports ferrata and unfit people won't proceed.
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| dred4619. 04. 2019 18:54:13 |
nice via ferrata 
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| Fikret19. 04. 2019 19:31:39 |
Dred46, you wrote that very nicely and clearly. Now everything is clear. Thanks!
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| jax5. 10. 2019 22:55:04 |
On the transition from the first to the second part there are now quite a few marks, so orientation is not that hard. Still a small loop at the top of the ascent or at the start of the traverse - it's marked but the arrow is a bit right of the ridge we walk on, easy to miss if looking ahead. Where the forest ridge nears the wall, look right, you won't miss it. Anyway, the intermediate passage is the least pleasant part. The path is not trodden, steep muddy forest terrain. Climbing steep mud is no fun. To lift it above the "semi-legal" level, this part needs to be worked on at least partly.
The old dirty cable personally - unlike some - is a super idea. Actually, the new thing in the lower ferrata is much worse - so thin it's hard to grip properly. Thin cable hard to hold, often dirty slippery rock from the ground, no foot pegs, the lower part is really tricky. The upper part felt better to me. The dirty cable grips well, hands don't slip, less mud, rough rock, soles hold. Yes, harder but easier to get into the ferrata flow, relying on feet and grip, so the overhang wasn't that bad. The dirty cable that doesn't slip helped. The lower part was much more annoying.
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| Lukito9. 06. 2020 17:25:23 |
Over the weekend I visited this too. Due to rain, the access is a bit more roundabout, but it's just as described. You follow the signs for the climbing area and the trodden path for a while until you see the cables.
All cables are in good condition, though maybe a bit unconventional - with bolts. Still, the whole path is super protected, nicely routed and offers good climbing. And the views? Insane!
Difficulty? I'm no expert, but there are sections where you go quite vertically up and pull on the cable, so the D rating seems appropriate to me. But those parts aren't airy, so the feeling is quite safe. Or you can have a very quality wipeout 
Current state is super, no loose rock, no vegetation either. I recommend bringing a via ferrata set for easier descent on the other side - abseil, rope is already there. Or of course classically along the cable.
Then follows descent over scree, so keep the helmet on your head.
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| VanSims10. 08. 2020 11:49:25 |
Can't believe what arrogant and self-deluded young guys go on this ferrata.
I arrive at the wall, stones are already falling on me. I ask them to be a bit careful. "Put on your helmet!", rude reply. I'd barely arrived.
Later I see that the girl is knocking most of the stones loose, her escorts obviously took her on a ferrata beyond her abilities. It was hard going. I stayed back on purpose.
Somewhere in the middle of the wall, the rude guy obviously senses a moment for his triumphant revenge. "Watch out for the pebble!" First time I was really alert, then I didn't fall for it anymore. He tried another three or four times. I couldn't help laughing. Good that those ahead didn't hear. It wasn't right to mock his brain poverty.
Stones were still flying. Then they rested at the start of the ridge just before the bivouac turnoff. When leaving, I heard: "Pick up the trash." "Ah, it'll decompose anyway!"
Later I watch them descending the scree before going to the second part. Didn't know whether to laugh or cry. It would be funny if they weren't endangering others.
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| Lukito10. 08. 2020 13:17:12 |
Not just this one. Happens everywhere. A couple days ago a hero turned up who climbed onto the roof of Aljaž Tower on Triglav. They photographed him instead of boxing his ears.
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| lynx26. 02. 2021 17:23:36 |
Via ferrata survived winter well. Approach has some more woody obstacles, ferrata dry all the way to descent (didn't go to top this time). Start of descent gully has a few snow patches left, but at 11am already so soft that those few meters easy to kick steps to dry ground.
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| janezs731. 03. 2021 10:19:12 |
On Saturday full via Ožarjeni kamen. Approach via shortcut over scree closest to Govec. Lower part of ferrata dry of course, as previous said. Middle part dry to top of intermediate steep forest. Before upper climbing section need to cross large steep snowfield (avalanche deposit), already at 11am soaked to nearly half meter deep. With buddy we belayed the crossing with rope. Upper ferrata to start of ledge dry, all protections intact. Start of exit ledge to ~1250m dry, then after 2 small snow patches snow height jumps to over meter. Despite shade behind spruces and cloudy weather Saturday morning snow was deeply soaked. Made deep enough steps for safety. Tricky part at top in forest, lots of snow, low spruces, still steep, hard to move.
Descent via Vogar. On path over 1.5m snow, occasionally sink a meter. Lots of holes in snow, lots of broken trees.
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| VanSims31. 05. 2021 16:44:21 |
Was up there again these days.
Someone already warned about ticks. Warning not superfluous to repeat, I got one too! 
As for the cable, lower part really poorly grippy, upper very good, greasy up or down. Pity that if they didn't have proper cable for whole route, they could swap lower one to both easier (A/B) and longer exit sections, upper one to the rest.
Just because of better grip upper part (except D/E overhang) roughly same difficulty as lower or (without traverse before it) even easier. Maybe even downgrade that traverse difficulty - C/D would be plenty.
Vogar closed these days - so no one gets ideas after a beer right after the tour. 
Besides fantastic views from ferrata, on descent via Vogar at least two more, both marked: first at Vogar hut or side of path some 3 min, second bit further toward Stara Fužina at monument.
Parking same as always. Savica parking now permanently 8 EUR, old price not stickered over but new sign. Around 7 when I left, not collecting yet. Ukanc all paid, now also at ruined Hotel Zlatorog. Somewhere can cheat but won't say where, no rush or suspicion. 
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| exwannabe4. 07. 2021 20:00:29 |
Not specified which ferrata or exactly what happened but anyway, adding link here. Often wondered, given ferratas popping up like mushrooms after rain, when some accident would happen.
https://www.rtvslo.si/crna-kronika/v-bohinju-po-odlomu-skal-v-ferati-umrla-planinka/586592
Don't know if area regulated at all, sometimes feel ferratas done a bit haphazardly, dunno. Given how some hang on cables, question when more happens. And who maintains all these new ferratas. Often maintenance bigger issue than building.
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| jax4. 07. 2021 22:33:55 |
I think it was really Ožarjeni kamen.
Anyway, I don't think it's because ferratas grow like "mushrooms after rain" (actually, except for both Bohinj ones, Zelenice and Češka koča, there are no new mountain ones; the others are really valley ones), but precisely because their legal status is quite unclear and especially these two Bohinj ones arose in some semi-illegal way. I'm not saying it happened because of that, but surely the check of the wall condition and protections would be easier if the legal status were sorted.
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| Lukito5. 07. 2021 13:06:59 |
What difference would it make? I mean, what exactly would they regulate?
Or rather, is the matter really so different from climbing routes elsewhere? There are bolted ones, there are unbolted ones, and there too someone sometimes gets hurt.
What basis should there be here then?
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| mizakaši5. 07. 2021 14:13:01 |
I don't know why there's need for some dramatizing here. If we looked at it that way, everyone would just stay home. Approaches to summits are also secured with cables, so everyone who goes there must know what they're getting into and accept a certain risk. If they're not capable of accepting that, they should just stay home. No one forces anyone anywhere. Everyone decides for themselves. Here, only the equipment, which should at least be legally regulated and which everyone really should use. Roads and highways are legally and maintenance-wise very well regulated, also car equipment and rules, but there are also huge numbers of victims there. All ages. Good luck and safe steps to you.
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| jernejm5. 07. 2021 16:06:49 |
I think the problem is partly also that ferratas are heavily promoted here so that various clubs can conduct courses and guided tours. The fact is that our rock is quite a bit more crumbly than, say, in Austria. Personally, in ferratas I have often experienced that with larger crowds, lots of stones fly down. For alpine sections, I know they regularly organize work actions where they clean walls in crags. How much the alpine associations or whoever installs them care for ferratas, I don't know.
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| jax5. 07. 2021 18:04:26 |
There is plenty of loose rock in Austria too, no worries. Already Košutnikov turn is an excellent example that can compete without shame with the biggest scree slopes in our hills. Say Uiberlacher in Creti di Aip and similar. Higher up in granite there is of course less of it, but that's really only a smaller part of Austrian hills.
I don't know, maybe I just pick my targets well, but to me our hills have never seemed generally so much crumblier than those in our immediate surroundings. Even in the Dolomites, which are so praised for good rock, I have walked routes where my hair still stands on end today.
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