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| geppo6. 08. 2008 11:45:27 |
Does anyone know ferratas on these two peaks or recommend paths to these two Košuta peaks from the Austrian side?? I found descriptions on the net - personal experiences interest me!!
Lp
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Ferrata on Cjajnik is difficult, on some parts even overhanging. You need lots of arm strength as footholds are rare. If you're used to harder ferratas in Italy, probably no problem. Mainly it's good to be fit condition-wise, because ascent to Užnik, crossing Macesja and descent from Košutnikov Turn isn't easy either.
Lp
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| rant6. 08. 2008 14:58:30 |
I climbed this ferrata a month ago.
It's very nicely routed, especially on Cjajnik. For the tour you need some more strength in your arms, definitely don't forget gloves. Start at Košuta Haus, then new ferrata to Cjajnik, from there to Košuta ridge (Učnik), and along the ridge to K.Turn.
From there back a bit and down OTK Sreig. The ferrata on Cjajnik and descent from it takes about 1.5 hours. From K.Turn a good half hour. Whole tour 7-8 hours.
Since the entry from the screes to Cjajnik ferrata is very hard to find, there is a board before Košuta Haus of the whole route.
Regards
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| geppo7. 08. 2008 20:50:08 |
Thanks for the tips!! (rant-and1)
So today 7.8.2008 we headed towards Košuta. Not early, at 5:45 žemljice and some other goodies in Mozirje - straight into the backpack (see Križ description).
Over Pavličevo sedlo - Eisenkappel - Selo - to the turn-off for Košuta Haus hut. A few km of gravel (cca 15min) and we arrive at the hut.
In front of the hut full of police vehicles and on the parking lot warnings for toll payment - this scares us so much that we immediately rush to pay the 3 euro road use fee. In the hut very friendly - the police are having Frühstück and nicely toast back.
At 8:00 we head towards the climbing (secured) path Košutnikov Turn - 2134m.
We eliminated Cjajnik (1 hiker over 51l, 1 hiker over 60l third angry 20l) You advised right - also here (climbing) arm strength was needed - we veterans don't have that fitness in abundance.
The path from the hut starts through nice deciduous forest, which turns into larch (giant larches). Then we go onto the scree (it was tough) - the scree under Križ I marked as brutal (apologies!!) Košuta is like a bride in a white veil (fog) when it reveals itself for a moment it's already too late for photographing...
When we reach the wall (helmets, self-belaying, tighten gear...) and up into the wall.
Soon our momentum fades - light difficulties already start.. A bloody trail drags along the rock and cable (my injured finger joint) I hadn't noticed yet that I scraped it.
Not for the vertiginous and my long legs and arms come in handy. We reach the real rope salad, so you can hardly study where to clip in - I make a mistake on the way back (at that spot) and clip into the loose cable - it's not fixed and serves for aid in climbing - the carabiner flies into free space (slooowly back and clipping into the right one). We reach the summit a little before 11. At the top cold, windy, foggy - snack which the ravens successfully demand too - no crowds!!
We return the same way - the descent in the upper part is very crumbly - slip!!!
Then back to the pitons, cables... carefully!!!
Fog accompanies us and makes the path even darker. We descend very carefully, no queue up there..
The scree descent is a bit more cheerful and we have full of gravel in our boots. At the hut around 13:00 and with pleasure all three of us treat ourselves to a cold beer (supposedly 2.80 eur). The beer hit the spot, we chat a bit more with the group that was on Cjajnik and we don't regret it (except the 20-year-old who whines he wasn't up there - he still has time..)
In the heat, over Pavlič we return satisfied to Savinjska!
VERY NICE SECURED CLIMBING PATH. MARKINGS ARE FREQUENT AND CROSSROAD SIGNS THAT GUIDE YOU. CLIMBING IS CCA 1 HOUR. MAYBE I WOULD RATE TWO SPOTS AS MORE DIFFICULT - OTHERWISE FOR EXPERIENCED AND EQUIPPED MOUNTAINEER (just safety kit - helmet) MANDATORY!! NO PROBLEMS! IN WET DON'T TRY!!!
Lp
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| ogo8. 08. 2008 06:25:45 |
Hi Geppo!
I'm wondering what those cables strung in the air from one wall to the other are for? Is the self-belay set essential - for now I don't have one?
Lp
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| aljazek8. 08. 2008 07:42:21 |
To clip onto the cable and pull to the other side with a rope, if you want of course. But the path is not routed there. Self-belay set needed if you like your life, for suicide not. So YES, needed!
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| geppo8. 08. 2008 07:51:29 |
The answer is the same - you need self-securing!!!
With rope technique cross the gap and climb up the rock tower!
Lp
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| Rok19. 08. 2008 18:31:11 |
Today I went to Cjajnik. The ferrata seemed a bit harder to me than Via Italiana on Mangart. The difference is that on Cjajnik there are quite fewer footholds and you need more arm strength.
From the summit I continued to the Košuta ridge and then to Košutnikov Turn from where I descended via ferrata back to Koča pod Košuto (Koschutahaus).
The protections are impeccable.
LP Rok
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| geppo19. 08. 2008 18:54:11 |
Rok!
how much time cca. did you spend from wall entry to summit??
I see now they've made hanging bridge - imagined ropes for pulley ride!!
How, what does it look like for crossing??
Lp
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| Rok19. 08. 2008 19:30:36 |
From wall entry to summit needed good hour.
On bridge only few steps to test it a bit. Sways a bit. You can hold only to overhead steel cable for protection.
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| ogo24. 08. 2008 20:48:01 |
Hello!
I'm from Velenje, interested in what the shortest path to the Koschutahaus tour start is?
LP
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| aljazek24. 08. 2008 21:19:11 |
Not sure, but via Pavlič then to Železna Kapla we went...from Polzela.
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| geppo25. 08. 2008 05:49:50 |
That way we made to the hut exactly 101km.
Lp
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| andrejp28. 08. 2008 09:31:47 |
With this debate you made us with Janez crave and yesterday we jumped to see what hides in walls of Cjajnik and Košutnikov Turn.
What to say, adrenaline. Really demanding path, we haven't climbed such a hard one yet. Did same loop as Rok. Ferrata to Cjajnik, descent to notch, then ridge to Košutnikov Turn and back ferrata to hut. Took good 4 hours and full of impressions sped back to Lj.
Andrej
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| Gorazd G26. 07. 2009 20:19:29 |
geppo wrote: "The path is impeccable - only sorry we didn't cross the hanging bridge and return by the other path. Remains for next time!! That's a new addition from last year."
For me this is not a new acquisition, but a "new acquisition" that reminds me of a luna park and I have no desire to visit it. But to each his own, since we have democracy ...
I must praise the first picture in the profile. Very nice shot of the home church 
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| geppo26. 07. 2009 20:44:51 |
A lot of talk about the sensibility of building paths - ferratas (e.g. Cjajnik).
They started building this bridge last year to the neighbouring rock peak. It now connects this wall to the ridge and the rock peak cca 40m high. I didn't get the feeling that it's all a luna park. Now you can choose which path to use. Anyway, it's all in "Austria" and the decision is theirs - like equipping Cjajnik (very visited...)
Lp
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| geppo27. 07. 2009 08:16:56 |
Thanks for the links
http://www.gore-ljudje.net/novosti/41966/#19700101010000
I've already read this before and agree with what's described. I'm not a fan of steel paths at any cost either. Both times I felt that more morning visitors chose the iron variant and went right at the fork. But I think awareness among us is such that it would be hard to come to such iron violence over any of our mountains. Even in case of an idea, the opposition would be such that it would be hard for anyone to realize it.
LP and many beautiful moments in the mountains
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| ALENA14. 08. 2009 09:48:46 |
Is a circular variant to Košutnikov Turn possible (via climbing up and...)?
Thanks for the answer and LP.
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