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Circular: Dimniki, Luknja peč, Rjavina, Vrbanove špice

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garmont10. 08. 2020 13:10:52
Bravo!nasmeh
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pinkerton10. 08. 2020 14:26:58
Beautiful, long, demanding, beautiful memories … bravo
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Nejc78710. 08. 2020 16:21:51
Bravo! Good luck!
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mukica11. 08. 2020 07:47:20
Congratulations to all...nasmeh
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j.11. 08. 2020 12:44:24
For the soul! Nice!
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lijaneja16. 09. 2021 17:08:05
Dušan mentions Luknja peč to me, I agree without hesitation to the mentioned tour. On Tuesday at six in the morning in faint dawn we set off from Kota. There are quite a few cars there, but we saw no people. It's been a long time since my first tour with Irena, with Rajko it was six years ago, so I thought I remembered more from the tour in my head. Sadly, far from it. Already the first blunder, which cost us three quarters of an hour and over 200 m altitude, was the tempting path right after the spring, leading towards Macesnovec. Without hesitation we return to the start, as there was no sense in pushing into the unknown cliffs of Dimniki, which we already had right under our noses. The second low blow I give myself at the entry jump in the right direction, since due to wet rock I couldn't climb those two entry meters above the snow. I try too far left and get stuck. A half-meter high little pine saves me, where I enter easier terrain. Interestingly, on my previous two visits this detail was completely easy for me, so I don't remember it, otherwise I wouldn't have pushed towards Macesnovec.velik nasmeh So it went wrong again for some time and strength. Quite good and successful route continuation follows all the way to the first bend behind the brown rock and larch, since we should have gone slightly up before crossing the gully, so we found ourselves in an unpleasant position again. This was the third and luckily last forced stop. It wasn't far to the hole anymore, despite the big time loss, and the sun mercilessly baking on the other side of the window, we stroll to Dimniki, then back under the hole and into the cliffs of Luknja peči. Holds are solid, we hardly correct the direction and we're already on it. A bit of dilemma again on the descent, since we didn't know which gully was the right one, as we couldn't find any cairns at all. We overcome that too and following Dejan's tips we reach the grassy cliffs of Rjavina in easy scrambling quite high. Nevertheless, I needed a good half hour to stand on the mountain top. Due to all the mishaps we skipped Vrbanove špice, I also skipped Staniča, after realizing it was already closed and descended into Pekel a bit behind Dovška vrata. Due to extremely wet rocks (in all-day sun baking) I hurried down a bit, as I wanted to avoid that hazard still in good daylight. At the spring I change, refill water and Dušan is already there, from where together, just before dark we reach the car.
The first sun rays already caress the Lower Vrbanova špica.1
Dovški križ, Škrnatarica, Kukova špica and Vrh nad Mužiči with (wrong path) towards Macesnovec. In front Rušnata Mlinarica.2
Above the (today) difficult entry threshold: Dušan and Luknja peč.3
Below the threshold a snow patch that will overwinter this year.4
One of the few details that remained in my memory from previous trips - the brown wall with larch where the path leads.5
Below along the ledge a path, behind SVŠ and Cmir.6
From Dovški Gamsovec to Vrh nad Mužiči, in front Mlinarica.7
Dušan at the previously mentioned brown wall with larch8
Vrbanove špice, right Cmir with Nad Kuhinjo špica9
Mighty summits of Rjavina10
Dušan right before the window11
In the background Kukova špica and Sleme...12
...on the other side Debela peč13
Luknja peč and Rjavina summit with Dimniki...14
...close-up.15
Kovinarska hut in Krma16
Almost a disaster today - Macesnovec.17
With Dovška Baba and Golica in the background.18
Summit part of Luknja peč19
Vrbanove špice with Cmir...20
...and Julijci from Turn pod Razorjem to Vrh nad Mužiči21
Škrlatica22
Cmir and Nad Kuhinjo špica, behind it Stenar.23
Begunjski vrh and Visoka Vrbanova špica24
Veliki Draški vrh and Tosc, in front Veliki Pršivec.25
Dimniki from the path towards Luknja peč26
Towards Luknja peč27
Detail during ascent to LP.28
Dušan already towards the summit29
Macesnovec and Dimniki from Luknja peči.30
Slightly zoomed in31
Mighty neighbour Rjavina32
From Rakova špica to Mali Oltar33
summit of Rjavina34
Cmir, Nad Kuhinjo peak Prisank...35
...which has quite a few visitors.36
Dolkova and Rakova špica, Ter Škrlatica37
Debela Peč38
After descent from LP...39
...we head towards Rjavina.40
Curiosity above...41
...and below the path.42
Full of towers, but few cairns.43
Western side of LP...44
...is even steeper.45
The summit is still far, far away.46
Stenar, DŠ and Škrlatica, in front Cmir from Rjavina.47
In front Vrbanove špice, behind Begunjski vrh and Rjavčeve glave, Pihavec, Vrh nad Kamnom, Bovški Gamsovec and Stenar, behind double peak Planja Jalovec can be sensed, right Razor.48
Southeast cliffs of Cmir.49
Panorama from Staniča to Škrlatica50
Terrifying. Just over five hours ago at the entrance threshold (right by the snow), horizontally only a couple hundred meters from the viewpoint.51
2m lower western summit of Rjavina.52
Here I still didn't know that the innkeepers no longer feel like working.53
My companion in front of Škrlatica54
Far below, remnants of recent history55
Rjavina - main summit.56
Nice summer sunny day - closed. Here nothing really pays off.57
Visoka Vrbanova špica58
Rjavina59
Larch grove and Luknja peč60
Bottom left: brown rock with larch61
Here I veered too far left...62
...save me little pine sapling (which I can't find on the photo anyway)63
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j.16. 09. 2021 21:45:03
Nice tour, Tone! Congratulations. Did you use rope at all? Probably not on the ledges mežikanje..
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redbull16. 09. 2021 21:47:54
Great tour, photos as always top-notch
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bos17. 09. 2021 06:43:25
Gorgeous tour.nasmeh
Tone, you forgot about me ... we'll have to repeat it, now that you know exactly where to go.jezik
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lijaneja17. 09. 2021 08:07:08
Thanks, Jure! We didn't use the rope anywhere, but it would have come in handy at the entry ledge where I got a bit tangled, however my buddy was already high above me with it.eek
It was really great, Dejan, despite some hitches. I was glad to have a well-conditioned young guy with me and we solved all problems with a smile. Your advice to keep height from Luknja (2117) as much as possible was welcome, since we thus reached the Rjavina meadows high above Temen.
Deal, Boštjan. Next year a month earlier, so more daylight, even lighter backpack, visit Begunjski vrh along the way and descend over Vrbanove špice. For confirming your last sentence though I wouldn't put my hand in the firezmeden
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ppegan17. 09. 2021 11:54:08
I remember when we went to Luknja peč via PP ledges about 8-9 years ago, the tour was mentally and physically demanding. We walked around 10 hours, returning the same way. Of course without experienced guides I wouldn't have made it or I was with two who used to go around here with Zupančič sometimes, but they had also forgotten a bit. But the PP marks let us know we were on the right path. Tone, that ledge on your last picture we climbed left of the snow, there are some old pitons hammered in the rock, if I remember right. Otherwise useless, but at least you know you're in the right rock mežikanje
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turbo17. 09. 2021 12:10:10
Tone,
is there still a "summit log" in the stone cairn a bit before the window zmeden It's been a long time since I did this tour, and I remember I think a bottle and paper in it. Great tour. With my buddy we had double rope and rappelled from Luknja saddle, anchors are there and it goes super comfortably with double rope nasmeh
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dprapr17. 09. 2021 12:35:07
Tone.
If you take me along with Boštjan, we'll go via that shorter path to Rjavina. That's the nicest part of this ridge.
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JusAvgustin17. 09. 2021 13:24:02
So we start in Radovna...mežikanje
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lijaneja17. 09. 2021 13:52:33
Polonca, with two guides, and mentally demanding?nasmeh
PP marks help in the initial part, then there are no more. Ha, also the hidden piton that I saw from below would certainly have helped me, but I didn't dare because of the greasy rock. From where and why did you return the same way? Here descent is substantially more demanding than ascent.
Bojan, I have to admit I wasn't attentive enough, and didn't notice anything like that. But I'll ask Dušan, who's more of a curious typejezik Rappelled from the saddle towards Gube - but didn't you continue to Rjavina? At my old age I trust rappelling only to Juš and Dragot, true that so far I haven't had many opportunities. And carrying a long rope -- brrrr.
Of course, Drago. You two are too fast for me. But of course I'm much happier with nice ridge climbing than endless steep grass.
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dprapr17. 09. 2021 14:06:16
Tone, we'll give the rope to Juš and wait for him at Luknja peč. By then he'll just warm up.nasmeh
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turbo17. 09. 2021 14:07:09
Something before the window there's something cave-like, some overhang (roof), inside a big cairn, bottle in it. I've been to Luknja peč twice, first via Temen, then descent via Rjavina back to Krma, second via PP from Kot, then to Dimniki. Since with my buddy we found the first belay at Luknja saddle successfully the first time, we purposely took two ropes to rappel the upper part of the gully in the air. It was a super tour, rappels the real deal when legs dangle in empty velik nasmeh
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ppegan17. 09. 2021 15:15:34
Yes it was, because you really had to watch every step on the descent full of scree. Wouldn't be cool to fly off some ledge or on descent from top of LK. And back then I was total beginner at such a bit more adrenalized and partly climbing tours or that was my first such tour velik nasmeh From Luknja peč we returned via ascent path, so through the window and PP ledges over the ledge to Kot mežikanje
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LISAC17. 09. 2021 21:32:38
Congrats lijaneja mežikanjeThis one still awaits me, looks really super varied tour nasmeh
Kot-Gube-PP ledges-window-chimneys-L.P.-ledges-Rjavina-hell-Gube-Kot.
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lijaneja18. 09. 2021 11:22:28
@LISAC, thanks to you too, although this 'Peč' is no bogeyman, 'Široka' is worse, where I wouldn't dare without protection anymore. Main thing is we don't become zaPEČkarjijezik and since we have three 'Peči', something for everyone.
Really glad the debate didn't turn into some 'bashing' again and from names I see you're all with mountaineering soul.
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