List of forums / Slovenia / Julian Alps / Circular: Dimniki, Luknja peč, Rjavina, Vrbanove špice

Circular: Dimniki, Luknja peč, Rjavina, Vrbanove špice

mailman18. 09. 2021 17:44:22

I would gladly join the group of mountaineers...even from Radovna!!

mukica19. 09. 2021 08:59:28

Congratulations to both, great to see and follow your feats....someday when I'm big maybe I'll peek into this wild and demanding world mežikanje

Heavy_bull15. 08. 2024 18:58:41

Luknja peč (15.8.2024) from Kota
PP (Planica - Pokljuka) path can be followed well to window overlooking Krma, then orientation harder - especially traversing southern slopes of Luknja peč to sandy saddle. Initial ascent from sandy saddle (on PP path) to Luknja peč summit, we spiced it via gully (start of III. grade) probably a bit too left (upward) from transverse ridge running from summit via sandy saddle to Krma. Descent same way. Previous reports helpful (thanks!), adding some pics and comments for orientation.

Here from the marked path (Kot - Staničev dom) to the PP path towards V gubah

Into this gully over a rock jump (marked with PP dot)

View of the jump back (a bit of help also old and quite loose peg)a)

In case of wet rocks in this jump, the two visible pegs at the top of the jump would be useful (in dry, there shouldn't be major difficulties - II degree)

After the jump follows scree, which we cross upwards somewhat to the left (to the edge with scree) and don't push too high straight up to the wall. Behind the scree edge on the left side, this passage will then be visible.

Ledges - all the time the main orientation is the reddish wall with larch.

On the ledges already closer to the reddish wall with larch.

A couple of meters up right before the reddish wall (visible peg).

When we continue traversing behind the reddish wall, we soon spot this window (on the left side) - here we turn right into the gully, up which we climb about 30 m (II degree)

At the top of the gully then across to this ledge to the left

At the saddle at the top of the ledge - we spot Dimnike

Short descent behind the saddle and soon to the right we spot...

From the window short descent and up right along the wide grassy ledge

At the top of the ledge - this part of the traverse on the southern slopes is orientationally the most difficult - steep, crumbly, interspersed with cut-off gullies. First descent along the grassy ledge and then approximately as shown

View back at the descent on the grassy ledge and further crossing

Spicy rock jump over this gully (start of the III-degree jump) probably somewhat too far left of the sandy saddle

Continuation of the rock jump into the gully to the right

Already at the top of the jump, where crossing to the left follows and

then right more or less straight upwards to the top on such a scree-like crumbly slope

View back - first part of the mentioned slope

View back - already a bit higher on the slope. Upon exiting at the top of the slope still a little to the right to the summit.

(+14)

Trobec16. 08. 2024 00:29:56

Heavy bull is more up-to-date...this is still from hot Sunday when tour idea was most northern approach velik nasmeh

From window onwards we went bit differently. Left PP earlier and straight up ridge. Descent to "sandy saddle" - extremely crumbly. Then PP to Temen and Rjavina.

https://trobec.blogspot.com/2024/08/luknja-pec-rjavina-1182024.html

(+4)

dprapr16. 08. 2024 16:00:34

"Killing sloped plain, no climbing, just 300m knee grinding."
Almost within reach though is along ridge to Rjavina one of nicest approaches, compact rock and enjoyable scrambling. nasmeh

Trobec16. 08. 2024 19:10:20

Hehe... yeah, there was a debate about that variant... but according to descriptions half to a whole grade harder - if you don't miss velik nasmeh

We didn't have much gear with us nasmeh

ljubitelj gora16. 08. 2024 19:41:51

This from Temena shows the PP path to Luknja peč. At least it's marked at the start, we didn't go there, but higher up one gully, not so hard

Trobec16. 08. 2024 20:34:00

Yeah, approximately like that we went. Well, left part of the line more direct up the gully.

ljubitelj gora16. 08. 2024 20:56:41

Gully hidden, can't see it on the picture

(+1)

janezs739. 08. 2025 17:07:19

Yesterday royal loop - from Kot (too early forced by circumstances) to Gube and from there via PP8 to the window and on to Luknja peč, then further (almost) to Temen and to the top of Rjavina. Descent via secured path to Pekel and further to Kot.

Of 4 PP parts (1,3,6 and this 8), this seemed the hardest to me. For proper passage from HeavyBull's last year pic 20 to southern shoulder of Luknja peč yesterday I wasn't ready so I diverted to the ridge, where there was "only" climbing without impossible hanging scree that begs to sweep you away.
Of course descent from Luknja peč wasn't far from that either, but it seemed manageable to me anyway zmeden

.
Just before Temen in total enthusiasm I followed the beautiful original PP path a bit too long and thus searched for the ascent gully too late, then turned around and up the previous gully (in my opinion like Trobec and company last year, his pic 22) - this wasn't easy either.

On Rjavina well-deserved rest after long hours of searching, which this time unlike previous PP searches led to the end of the stage on first attempt velik nasmeh