Normal Route | MONTE DURANNO

Type: Interesting

Description:
The route starts from Forcella Duranno with an evident trail trace and immediately encounters a tricky passage. It involves overcoming a smooth slab, often wet, made uncomfortable by an overhang. Continue through easy well-stepped gullies and a grassy crestlet leading to the Cengia Alta. Traverse it comfortably to the left with a couple of short 1st degree passages to an evident gully cutting deeply into the mountain. Cross it (we found a snowfield that we bypassed over the underlying scree) and continue along the ledge gaining a nice shoulder. Quickly reach the base of the evident Canale Sartor. From here, leave the ledge to tackle a grippy little wall (faded arrow), leading to an upper ledge. Climb a more vertical but well-gripped wall then turn left along a narrow but not difficult ledge that descends to the bottom of the gully. Climb vertically for 10m of 3rd degree, then easier with exit onto scree. With an easy path to the right, reach below the most demanding gully. Overcome a first short passage with a jammed boulder lacking holds. Then the gully narrows into a chimney and climb 45m of 2nd and 3rd degree. At the exit onto debris, climb right over easy rocks gaining the Ciadin Alto. Ascend it over scree then turn right overcoming the last short rock steps to gain the airy crest. Follow it right and with a final traverse of an exposed little col on friable terrain reach the summit. All belay stations for rappels are equipped with cemented rings and there are other strategic pitons along the route.

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Video length: 10:37