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Mountain ranges / Julian Alps / Velika Martuljška Ponca / Ruski križ - Velika Martuljška Ponca

Ruski križ - Velika Martuljška Ponca

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Starting point: Ruski križ (1036 m)
Latitude/Longitude: 46,4444°N 13,7746°E
Walking time: 6 h
Difficulty: very difficult pathless terrain
Elevation gain: 1566 m
Elevation difference along the route: 1725 m
Map: TNP 1:50.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, ice axe, crampons
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, ice axe, crampons
Views: 39.150
 5 people like this post
Number of photos: 0
Number of comments: 11
Access to starting point:
First we drive to Kranjska Gora, then we continue driving towards the Vršič pass. Just a little before the 3rd serpentine of the Russian or Vršič road, we will notice the Ruski križ on the right side, and a smaller parking lot on the left, where we park. Because the parking lot is relatively small and fills up quickly, we can also park a bit higher at the larger parking lot a little above the 4th serpentine (in this case we must descend a bit to our starting point at the Ruski križ).
We can also reach the starting point from the Primorska side, namely via the Vršič pass.
Route description:
A little before the 3rd serpentine of the Russian road, along the road we will notice the mountain signs for the Koča v Krnici, which direct us slightly left onto a wide cart track that immediately begins to descend moderately. After a few minutes of descent through the forest, the path levels out and brings us to the bed of Suha Pišnica. Shortly after crossing the mentioned stream, the path turns slightly to the left and leads us out of the forest onto the vast grassy slopes of Planina v Klinu, where on the right we notice an isolated hut, and on the left a smaller memorial park Mali Tamar. The path ahead completely levels out, then joins the forest road coming from the former Hotel Erika or the bridge over Velika Pišnica. Here we continue right and follow the relatively steep forest road all the way to the Koča v Krnici, which we reach after about 20 minutes of further walking.
From the hut we set off towards Špik to the left. Already after a few minutes we reach a torrent gully along which we then ascend. The marked path to Špik, after a good hour's walk from the Koča v Krnici, crosses the mentioned gully and then ascends on the left side of it. When the marked path leading to Špik moves away from the gully, we will notice a less trodden path that ascends along the foot of the scree, moderately upwards along the gully. The path ascending along the gully is full of gravel and due to frequent storms full of unstable rocks. The path, which is partially less visible, leads us further through a somewhat narrower gully that higher up splits into two parts. We continue along and beside the right gully, which a bit higher brings us onto the extensive scree under the north wall of Škrlatica. At first the still quite visible path crosses the mentioned scree slightly to the left and mostly at their foot (traversing ascent towards the north). Further on, soon on a small rise under an indistinct peak we notice the bivouac in Velika Dnina. If it is foggy and if we don't know the path we will have difficulty finding it. Further we can climb to the bivouac, which is slightly off the path but an ideal place for a short or longer rest. If we decide to bypass the bivouac we continue along the barely visible path that ascends through an increasingly narrow scree field upwards. The scree then ends and we continue the ascent along and beside a distinct gully ever steeper upwards. The torrent gully is relatively difficult to pass due to storms that often change its appearance. The climbing taking place in crumbling terrain occasionally exceeds 2nd degree. In the upper part of the torrent gully we turn somewhat to the right and on a quite steep slope with some smaller technical and orientation difficulties we climb under the summit slopes of Velika Martuljška Ponca. In the last part the steepness decreases and the increasingly panoramic "path" brings us to the spacious summit of Velika Martuljška Ponca.

Due to technical difficulties approaching the 3rd difficulty level I recommend the company of a mountain guide. Orientation is very difficult and in fog almost impossible without the help of a compass or GPS.

Starting point - Planina v Klinu 0:20, Planina v Klinu - Koča v Krnici 0:25, Koča v Krnici - branch from the marked path 0:50, branch from the marked path - bivouac 2:10, bivouac - Velika Martuljška Ponca 2:15.
route map - Velika Martuljška Ponca
Along the route: Mali Tamar (996m), Planina v Klinu (980m), Koča v Krnici (1113m), Odcep z markirane poti (1425m), Bivak v Veliki Dnini (2180m)
The trip can be extended to the following destinations: Veliki Oltar
We recommend: trips from the same starting point, similar trips
Photos:
Discussion about the trip Ruski križ - Velika Martuljška Ponca
Gost19. 08. 2007
nasmehnasmehnasmehsuper super
mre25. 12. 2007
Comment on descriptions of required gear for winter season. For Velika Martuljška Ponca in winter, a rope for descent/abseil down the last chimney before the summit is highly recommended.
Otherwise a tour worth a solid ten.nasmeh
432. 07. 2013
maybe some tips: the scree in Velika Dnina is extremely strenuous uphill, that gully for approach under the summit structure is unmistakable and really crumbly, whatever you grab breaks off ... also the chimney or better said chute is unmistakable and not so crumbly and difficult ... but someone explain to me where on Ponca is the 3rd grade, because there isn't any ... also this "chimney" is easy, lots of pegs and stances, the most unpleasant is this gully downhill, because it is really crumbly and no stances for abseil ... take a rope with you (30m is enough) because it's definitely better to abseil than to look for rare solid holds downhill ...
JusAvgustin3. 07. 2013
doesn't hold
Branee4. 07. 2013
ahahahahh
DarjaZaplotnik5. 07. 2013
@Jus is quite right mežikanje

best regards d nasmeh
alyas28. 07. 2013
Krnica - Velika Dnina - Velika Martuljška Ponca (conditions 28.7.2013)

Already in the head of Krnica below Velika Dnina you encounter a large snow slide, which due to its flatness doesn't cause problems, the right turnoff - the path uphill through scree and larch needs to be found still from the snowfield, a cairn helps too, which we placed quite a few today. A bit below Bivak I and further to the end of Velika Dnina the snowfields are still continuous, but we crossed them all today without crampons.
For access to the first level below VMP we chose the last option looking uphill, the "red gully" (from Stritar description: 111 tours), which is crumbly but normally passable with easy climbing. For the final access to VMP the shortest, far right gully, which requires some more reaches and climbing, for descent - through this section securing is highly recommended - about 60 m of rope will be more than enough for the hardest part and abseiling. But since there are few existing pegs (saw 2 usable), it's good to have a prusik extra, we also used (and left there) one from previous visitors.
More details in the pictures.
ljubitelj gora18. 10. 2014
ljubitelj gora26. 05. 2015
Last year I was taciturn, more snow in autumn was really tough. The last part when it was bare went on all fours, but short section. Therefore it's better to go when there's still snow. Such an ascent imprints in memory for a long time, return without gear is extremely difficult. I had a 30m rope myself, there were 3 belay points for descent in the gully, (first gully has no major climbing difficulties except it seemed crumbly to me) the rock in the second gully (at least to me) didn't seem crumbly and holds are good, summit part is II+ (some write II others III), but above the gully there's still some crumbly terrain to cross to the top. Return to the gully in fog can be extremely hard to find, as the gully is not visible from the top. It looks like this (a bit lower boulder): http://shrani.si/f/1H/Y/lgBLZex/106590279404372459696293.jpg Will have to repeat sometime.
PostojnskiGams25. 08. 2020
On Sunday 23.8.2020 I went with a friend to Velika Martuljška Ponca, in the morning I had a bad feeling as bad weather was forecast. We took the most accessible path. From the hut in Krnica towards Velika Dnina there is a broken stream bed, progress is very slow there, later it climbs more through pines and elevation meters accumulate quickly. In Velika Dnina after 400 elevation meters of scree (usually snow persists here) we turn left above the snowfield. The first technical part is very broken, keep to the left, just before the top turn right. There is a cairn. From there a small path is well visible. Following the path you will reach the second technical part, in this part there are many hammered bolts for later descent with rope *Rope not necessary* (Everyone knows for themselves) we helped each other but could have done without. When you reach the top of this part then turn right onto the traverse, belay point also well visible. Then just towards the top and cross to the left once more but nothing difficult anymore. For descent rope is not necessary, but it's good to have at least 20m at hand as bolts are often hammered. Good luck!!
janezs7320. 08. 2023 18:34:12
Yesterday on this beauty, from which I gazed with pleasure for a whole hour at all the neighboring and distant giants of the Julians. So many stories experienced in their slopes, they almost burst before my eyes...

The hut keeper said that two turned back a few days ago (didn't know where), but the approach is normally passable - we all know what "normal" means for Martuljek: A quarry where almost anything you grab or pull in the wrong direction collapses velik nasmeh (yes, there are exceptions, even here).

In the south ravine, the middle part (before crossing Lipni scree) is quite loaded (seems new to me). Crossing the torrent is fine, at several places you can comfortably reach the right bend (towards the larches). No problems further on.

Not much snow left in V. Dnina, the gullies and chimneys above are to the taste of everyone who goes there.
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