Rifugio Tolazzi - Monte Coglians (Hohe Warte) (Weg der 26er)
Starting point: Rifugio Tolazzi (1350 m)
| Latitude/Longitude: | 46,59199°N 12,8678°E |
| |
Route name: Weg der 26er
Walking time: 5 h 30 min
Difficulty: extremely difficult marked way
Via ferrata: D
Elevation gain: 1430 m
Elevation difference along the route: 1430 m
Map: Tabacco 01
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, self belay set
Recommended equipment (winter):
Views: 19.703
 | 4 people like this post |
Access to starting point:
From Ljubljana on the Gorenjska motorway, exit Hrušica, continuation over the border crossing Rateče to Trbiž. There we turn onto the motorway, which we leave at the exit Tolmezzo. We continue to Villa Santina and ahead on the good road in the direction of Ovaro, Comeglians, Rigolato to the place Forni Avoltri. Here we turn right onto a narrower road towards the villages Sigilletto, Collinetta and Colina to our starting point, the mountain hut Tolazzi. For the entire route from Ljubljana to the parking lot, we need 2 hours and 40 minutes.
Route description:
From the parking lot, we continue left by the mountain hut Tolazzi on the road that leads to the cheese dairy Morareet. We don't go there, but signs for path 144 soon direct us left onto another macadam road, from which after three hairpins we branch off onto a forest path. Along it we come to the mountain hut Lamberthengi, which is located a few minutes below the pass Passo Volaia. Above it, we spot the little lake Wolayer see with the Austrian hut Eduard Pichl Hutte on the opposite shore. Along the right shore of the lake, we slightly descend on path 403, which turns in the direction of the high-alpine cirque towards the next pass Valentin Torl. We must overcome 270 meters of elevation to reach the rocky summit just before the pass. We bypass it below on the right side and rejoin the marked path at the pass.
From here on, we ascend in zigzags towards the wall of Hohe Warte. After a good 20 minutes, pay attention to the branch-off of the path to the right, which leads to the ferrata Weg der 26er and has marking 427-1. Since several paths are worn on the slope, we can easily miss the signs in fog. Likewise, extensive snowfields are possible here in early summer. Along the path we come to the entrance to the ferrata, which is marked with a sign. Equip yourselves with a helmet, self-belaying kit and climbing gloves (essential).
The initial part of the route is practically vertical. The wall is well structured, the rock compact, the safety cables continuous. There are enough footholds, but they are quite distant from each other, so we need a lot of energy to progress. Soon we see substantial depth below our boots :) The vertical part transitions into traversing smooth, wet rock without rest options. Foot support is practically absent, or there are very shallow natural pockets in the rock. It will help if we look at and memorize the key points and traverse the rock in one go. Space for rest is on the other side, where the path again overhangs into a vertical section. The continuation of the path is still demanding, but the key points are behind us. When we reach the box with the logbook, the path gradually turns into the ridge section. With easy climbing and wide views we reach the summit, where we can congratulate ourselves :)
Descent:
The easiest is to return along the normal approach route to Hohe Warte, namely on the south path 143. We descend on loose scree terrain, where caution is needed regarding slipping and dislodging stones. The path runs in zigzags and is accordingly exposed, as most approaches to Hohe Warte go right here. The helmet also belongs on the head here and not in the backpack :) Lower down we come to a junction, where we choose the upper path 145. This leads over the grassy summit Pic Chiadin to the Marinelli hut with a fine view. We continue in the direction of our path 143 to the cheese dairy Morareet and past it to our starting point at the mountain hut Tolazzi.

Photos:
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
Discussion about the trip Rifugio Tolazzi - Monte Coglians (Hohe Warte) (Weg der 26er)
|
| ljubitelj gora20. 06. 2012 |
I climbed this ferrata with someone last Sunday, we started on the Austrian side, the route is passable without winter gear, there was still a little snow, the first part of the route is really difficult, namely we had wet rocks, smooth rock, a few steps later the route gets easier, the protections are fine, descent via the southern side, careful due to rockfall.
|
|
|
|
| Darxta4. 10. 2013 |
N46.591867 E12.867576 You can check on Google Maps, there's even Street View to the hut. Good luck! 
Best, Dare
|
|
|
|
| darinka423. 05. 2015 |
We climbed this ferrata Monte Coglians a few years ago. I remember the initial vertical wall, it was summer, four of us, nice ferrata. We returned via the south side. The ascent is demanding, and you need to be well prepared.
|
|
|
|
| B.Smart10. 07. 2017 |
On Saturday we climbed this via ferrata. Right at the beginning there is still a small snowfield that ends with a fairly wide rock crack, so the entry into the wall is even a bit harder. In addition, wet shoes are not much help in overcoming the initial pillar. The via ferrata is otherwise interesting, nicely routed and full of challenges. The cables are more taut in some places, less in others, with some steps and rock carvings to help. In this via ferrata, proper via ferrata climbing technique and arm strength are really important. I recommend having, in addition to the self-belay kit, also a via ferrata lanyard, as it especially in the first part allows rest for the hands. The path is suitable for people with good psychophysical condition, as steep walls and any small slip quickly get on your nerves.
|
|
|
To post a comment you must log in:
If you do not yet have a username, you must first
register.