Ljubelj - Vertatscha/Vrtača (east groove Y)
Starting point: Ljubelj (1056 m)
| Latitude/Longitude: | 46,4324°N 14,2602°E |
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Route name: east groove Y
Walking time: 3 h 15 min
Difficulty: very difficult pathless terrain
Elevation gain: 1125 m
Elevation difference along the route: 1123 m
Map: Karavanke - osrednji del 1:50.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, ice axe
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, ice axe, crampons, lamp
Views: 50.718
 | 3 people like this post |
Access to starting point:
From the highway Ljubljana - Jesenice, we take the exit Ljubelj and follow the road ahead to the border crossing. Just a few meters before the border crossing, signs for Zelenica direct us to the left and the road brings us, after some 10 meters of additional driving, to the parking lot below the ski center Zelenica.
Route description:
From the parking lot, we head onto the footpath in the direction of Zelenica, Vrtača and Stol. The cart track, which runs along the left side of the ski slope, brings us after approximately 15 minutes of moderate ascent through the forest to the previously mentioned slope, alongside which we then ascend. The path, which offers nice views of the extensive scree fields of Begunjščica on the left and the ridge of Ljubeljščica on the right, then brings us in a gentle ascent to the hut on Vrtača. From the hut, we continue straight on the marked path, which slowly turns slightly to the left and brings us after a shorter traverse ascent into a belt of dwarf pines. Further on, the path ascends more steeply for a short time and then brings us to a cart track (transport rescue road), which we follow in a moderate ascent to the mountain hut on Zelenica.
From the mountain hut on Zelenica, we continue right in the direction of Stol and Vrtača (left Begunjščica) on the path which immediately behind the hut turns left and ascends alongside the children's ski lift. Somewhere halfway up the cableway, we come to a less noticeable junction, where we continue right and traverse up over the ski slope (straight to the hut at the source of Završnica). Further, we cross a short belt of forest and the path brings us to the next ski lift, which we cross in a gentle descent. On the other side of the ski slope, we notice a larger rock and on it a mark, which directs us into the forest. The path ahead first descends slightly, then traverses up over the scree. The path soon flattens and turns somewhat to the left, where we come to a smaller unmarked junction. We continue straight on the even and marked mountain path, which a little further brings us to the place where an unmarked path branches off to the right into the valley of Suhega ruševja (cairn). We continue along it through patches of dwarf pines and sparse forest and past boulders towards the notch Žleb between Zelenjak and Palec. Just below the gully, we turn left and cross the scree of Zelenjak in an arc towards the foot of the eastern wall of Vrtača. The crossing is somewhat unpleasant due to the sliding gravel and rocks. When we step below the outlet of the gully, we must still ascend the steep scree to the wall, which is quite rugged, allowing quick progress. Higher up, the gully narrows considerably and divides into two narrower gullies. We continue on the left one, which is wider. In contrast to the right, it is also much easier, and the wall is not so steep. We ascend over gravel-filled rocky steps until we reach two jammed boulders, under which we must crawl. Then follows the key part of the tour, where we must climb two crumbly stone jumps on the right. Then we ascend through crumbly terrain to a saddle, from which we reach the summit in easier climbing.
More or less we ascended the whole time in the range of I.-II. difficulty grade.

Photos:
Discussion about the trip Ljubelj - Vertatscha/Vrtača (east groove Y)
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| klm25. 09. 2010 |
The author of the photo of Vrtača in winter garb is my friend Bojan Ambrožič!
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| JusAvgustin25. 09. 2010 |
This approach is more recommended for snowy conditions, for the reasons already mentioned. Not suitable for beginners, it already belongs to alpine ascents.
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| klm25. 09. 2010 |
I agree. Quite rough terrain with constant falling rocks. Definitely best to do the tour in winter.
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| skalar5025. 09. 2010 |
I also endorse the above thought... otherwise a beautiful path to Vrtača, and in general a world away from the crowds, like a fairy tale below between Palec and Zelenjak... if a bit more attentive soon after entering over the big rock, kingdom of edelweiss... also the area around Zelenica and there under Vrtača covered with flowers in spring...
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| sebanakis25. 09. 2010 |
yeah really it was pretty messed up better collect yourself somewhere before you go but there are pitons inside too, we were still there when I went through here in summer, but it's typical Slovenian rock, crumbly.... crazy spots
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| Bojan_A25. 09. 2010 |
What about it in winter? Are there any jumps or is everything iced over and the only obstacle the steepness?
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| knap422725. 09. 2010 |
All iced over, just waiting for the conditions
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| klm25. 09. 2010 |
Bojan, nice photos you took that day on Palec. You've whetted people's appetite... really a great tour! We have to go together in winter...
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| JusAvgustin25. 09. 2010 |
ha, winter... Seba wrote crazy ends. Couldn't hit it better! Especially in winter, when you're practically alone in silence. Yes, all iced up, just crampons, ice tools and most important: good conditions. The Karavanke [are a] paradise for climbing ascents in winter... not even that steep
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| Bojan_A25. 09. 2010 |
@ Klemen - I'll hold you to your word. 
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| jusuf28. 09. 2010 |
Bojan, great picture of this Vrtača. Probably taken from Palec. Can someone roughly draw the described route on this picture?! Best regards, P.P.
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| JusAvgustin14. 12. 2010 |
Y is filled with ice, not even a jump before you reach the ridge, but it was freezing cold... We went up Y, but the middle variant , full winter gear for the middle variant of Y recommended, ice tools, because it's steep!
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| klm15. 12. 2010 |
little mouse, I'd love to be upright too, but I'm horizontal with nearly 40 degrees. Geolog, you and your buddy did a super tour. I had this variant planned for the future. Keep exploiting the ideal conditions for such ascents, good luck!
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| JusAvgustin25. 01. 2011 |
Congratulations, you finally made it! But the weather probably wasn't exactly great, right?
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| Bojan_A26. 01. 2011 |
The weather was good, no fog. But due to high cloud cover it was dark all day - bad conditions for photography.
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| Steve Blaz 3. 02. 2011 |
Yesterday through Y to the top, conditions excellent with almost slightly annoying wind.
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| ljubitelj gora13. 01. 2014 |
Yesterday up the gully to Vrtača, because it was warm during the day and cold nights in previous days, I had hard snow all the time through the scree which made the ascent to the gully easier. The gully was completely filled, mostly dry snow with crust, harder in the smoother spot, at the top of the gully then to the right to the summit. I descended back down the gully and then decided for Palec and Zelenjak too. I had two regular hiking ice axes with me, but one is enough too https://plus.google.com/photos/114400986607884783562/albums/5968022228100446337?banner=pwa&sort=1
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| journeyman22. 03. 2014 |
yesterday via Y to Vrtača. great weather, good conditions in the gully, elsewhere the snow was already windblown in the morning. photos at: http://graheljsblog.blogspot.com/2014/03/po-grapi-y-na-vrtaco.html
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| JusAvgustin18. 02. 2017 |
Today up the Southern gully via the central one with two rappels. On the south side the probe showed rotten layer to a depth completely opposite to expected. Snow not settled at all, hard only along the avalanche track. At the top mists raced for a while but cleared quickly. Descent via central nothing special except pure powder. Below the gully another probe showed very stable snowpack. Probably only ones on Vrtača today, met three hikers in Suho ruševje. Walking through Suho ruševje on foot not recommended or really for those with lots of nerves and patience. In places sinking up to the butt. Nice day with good team.
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| jaka137. 08. 2019 |
So it's not recommended to use this path for ascent without snow for hikers experienced in ferrata?
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| jaka137. 08. 2019 |
Is it the same path as via Mala glava?
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| garmont7. 08. 2019 |
No. The path via Mala glava to Vrtača goes along the SE ridge, up here it's the ascent via the gully described.
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| jaka138. 08. 2019 |
Is the path too difficult for someone used to via ferratas (e.g. Plemenice, Hanzova on Mojstrovka)?
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| Rizi Bizi15. 08. 2019 |
This path in question (Y) is really dogged in summer - first hand. With a friend we went down from Vrtača on 9.8.2019 and said we'd go down another path and he found this one (that it's an acceptable option). Already at the beginning it's steep and slippery and you involuntarily start dislodging stones and rocks, which then roll down for a long time (which is not good for anyone below). We were luckily alone. Then for descending first a smaller jump that you can climb down, then comes about 6 m high jump, which is a bit harder to climb down, you have to think how to tackle it - I did it on the right side, if looking from top down. We didn't have any rope or protection, just somehow got down, but without that equipment, you have nothing to do here. Protection (rope and pitons) and helmet are mandatory equipment here, which means you have to know what you're doing, i.e. have done an alpine course. Without that I would never go here again - and even if I had all that, there's still predominant danger of dislodged rocks from potential hikers who would still want to go up or down here. In winter there's no such problem, because rocks are safely under snow. Otherwise it's not very similar to a via ferrata, only that if you climb ferratas, you have more imagination when you're in the jump and how to proceed.
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| mihael1018. 12. 2019 |
Has anyone been on the Y on Vrtača in the last few days? What are the conditions like?
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