Ljubelj - Begunjščica (Zeleniška smer)

Access to starting point:
From the highway Ljubljana - Jesenice, take the Ljubelj exit and follow the road ahead to the border crossing. Just a few meters before the border crossing, signs for Zelenica direct us to the left and after some 10 meters of additional driving the road brings us to the parking lot below the ski center Zelenica.

Route description:
From the parking lot, we head on the footpath in the direction of Zelenica, Vrtača and Stol. The cart track, which runs on the left side of the ski slope, after approximately 15 minutes of moderate ascent through the forest brings us to the before-mentioned slope along which we then ascend. The path, which offers nice views on the extensive screes of Begunjščica on the left and the ridge of Ljubeljščica on the right, then in a gentle ascent brings us to the hut on Vrtača.
From the hut we continue straight on the marked path, which slowly turns slightly to the left and after a shorter traverse ascent brings us into the belt of dwarf pines. Further, the path for a short time ascends more steeply and then brings us to the cart track (transport-rescue road), which we then follow in moderate ascent to the mountain hut Dom na Zelenici. During the operation of the ski slope, walking on the ski slope is forbidden. At that time we use the winter path, which runs along the transport-rescue road.
From Dom na Zelenici we head to the south side towards the north wall of Begunjščica. It is best to follow the circular path, which from Zelenica leads to Roblekov dom under Begunjščica. At a suitable spot, approximately 20 minutes from Dom na Zelenici, we turn steeply upwards towards the north wall of Begunjščica. The route runs through the gully, wedged between two peaks of the NW ridge. Difficulty depends on the amount of fallen snow, so in unfavorable snow conditions at least four shorter rocky jumps await us in the route.
The route starts along some sort of chimney/corner, which divides the route to the first snowfield in the gully. From the first anchor (piton in the rock) in good conditions a direct passage over the jump further into the gully is possible, in case of poor conditions we bypass the jump on the right side and with a traverse continue further into the gully. Above this jump the continuation of the gully brings us to the next anchor (piton in the rock). In good conditions and snow-filled jump there are no special difficulties, but if the jump is bare it is the hardest spot in the route (IV+ 4m) and it must be climbed also on rock. After this jump the main difficulties end and the steep gully brings us in two pitches to the NW ridge of Begunjščica.
From there we have several options—either through the gully to the NW ridge back to the entry and consequently to the valley, or further along the NW ridge to Veliki vrh Begunjščica. From the main summit we can descend via Centralna grapa or Grapa Y back to the start. Although the route is only 200 m long it is not to be underestimated since otherwise relaxed climbing can quickly be spiced up by a bare rocky jump. Anchors are equipped, intermediate protection is recommended. Do not go into the route after snowfall since the route is one big avalanche chute!
Lots of enjoyment in climbing and do not forget about safety!

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