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Mountain ranges / Julian Alps / Mala Martuljška Ponca / Gozd Martuljek - Mala Martuljška Ponca

Gozd Martuljek - Mala Martuljška Ponca

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Starting point: Gozd Martuljek (750 m)
Latitude/Longitude: 46,4821°N 13,8378°E
Walking time: 6 h 30 min
Difficulty: very difficult pathless terrain
Elevation gain: 1751 m
Elevation difference along the route: 1800 m
Map: Kranjska Gora 1:30.000
Recommended equipment (summer): helmet, ice axe
Recommended equipment (winter): helmet, ice axe, crampons
Author: matic4
Views: 22.976
 3 people like this post
Number of photos: 58
Number of comments: 15
Access to starting point:
From Mojstrana we drive towards Kranjska Gora or vice versa, but only to the village Gozd Martuljek, where we park on a parking lot near the bridge over the river Sava Dolinka (parking lot is located after the bridge, or before, if we come from Kranjska Gora).
Route description:
From the parking lot, we continue by the main road towards Kranjska Gora, but only to a spot, where cycling road branches off to the left (by the beginning of the cycling path there are also signposts, which point us on the mentioned road). We follow the cycling road to the first crossroad, where we continue straight on a macadam road (cycling road turns right), which quickly brings us to the next crossroad.
We continue right and follow the road closed to traffic to TNP signpost. Further, the path splits into two parts. We continue straight upwards on a steep cart track which is ascending on the right side of Martuljška soteska. Cart track, which is mostly ascending through the forest after 15 minutes brings us on a nice vantage point, where a view opens up towards a valley. The path then goes again in the forest and continues to ascend. A little further from the left joins the path from the waterfall, and a little further, the path towards the bivouac pod Špikom branches off to the right. We continue in the direction of the cottage Ingotova koča. The path ahead brings us to a crossing, where we continue straight, the path left runs to the cottage Ingotova koča to which is two minutes of walking.
The path ahead is at first ascending gently but only for some time. After that, the path crosses a small spring and on the other side steeply ascends. Steepness starts decreasing and the path brings us to a crossing, where we continue slightly right in the direction of bivouac Za Akom (left Zgornji slap 10 minutes). The path ahead is for some time still steeply ascending, and then the path brings us to a more demanding part. First, with the help of steel cables we cross steep grassy slope, and then still with the help of fixed safety gear we walk over an exposed ledge (watch your head, slightly overhanging rock above us). Still secured path (fixed safety gear are here mainly because of wet terrain), then starts ascending steeper and after few minutes of additional walking brings us to the most difficult part. With the help of artificial footholds and steel cables, we cross a smooth and wet rocky plate, and then we also cross a shorter very steep wall, which is also well-secured (because of wet slopes a great caution is needed). The steepness of the slopes then decreases and still wet path after a shorter ascent brings us by the edge of mighty gravel beds. Soon trail blaze on rock points us on the mentioned gravel beds, and right upward leads the path towards the bivouac Za Akom, to which is otherwise only few minutes of a steep ascent.
When we come on gravel beds we continue right where also numerous cairns point us to. Further when we walk on a wide torrential riverbed, we stick to the right side of the torrent. Here also nice views open up on the northern walls of Martuljek mountains where Široka Peč stands out. Below Široka Peč we can already see orientational point Pri treh macesnih. From gravel beds, we then continue slightly left and for a short time ascend on a footpath through dwarf pines. The footpath brings us by a little steeper riverbed of a torrent by which we are then ascending. The path here leads by the right side of the riverbed on an indistinct small ridge past rare larches upwards. Next follows crossing of a smaller stream and then ascent on the scree, which brings us on steeper rocky slopes. From here we continue slightly to the right and on smooth rocky plates on which there is quite a lot of sand we again cross the mentioned stream. The slope is here quite steep and because of sand on rocky plates quite some caution is needed. A short ascent follows on a very crumbly steep slope, which is also dangerous for slipping, and then the path brings us to the vantage point Pri treh macesnih.
From here we continue on the partly grassy small ridge towards the south, where we see the characteristic boulder. Before the boulder we turn right, follows ascending towards the right below the scree of Oltar and Velika Martuljška Ponca. Below the foot of Oltar we ascend over a rocky band. Next follows an ascent on the scree and crossing a groove, which is falling from beneath Velika Martuljška Ponca. Eventually we reach rocky rib in the foot of the already mentioned Ponca. Here we climb some easy spots, and then we descend into a gully, which is falling from the notch between Mala and Velika Ponca. Gully, which has at first angle to 30 degrees, then flattens, and in the upper part just before the notch is angle to 45 degrees. From the notch, we climb right on the ridge to the summit. Rock is crumbly. On the summit, there is a summit book. There isn't much space on the summit.
Times: Gozd Martuljek - Za Akom 2 hours, Za Akom - Trije macesni 1h 30 min, Trije macesni - summit 3 hours.
route map - Mala Martuljška Ponca
The trip can be extended to the following destinations: Veliki Oltar
We recommend: trips from the same starting point, similar trips
Photos:
Gozd Martuljek - Mala Martuljška Ponca1
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Discussion about the trip Gozd Martuljek - Mala Martuljška Ponca
ljubitelj gora28. 07. 2012
Today walked this described path, crampons and ice axe not needed.
ljubitelj gora28. 07. 2012
Forgot to add, there is another path that is easier, at least in terms of rockfall, it apparently goes from the bivouac under Špik.
AnzeKozjek16. 09. 2013
Nice greetings!

I plan to do this tour soon and wonder if I need to bring a rope, as I heard from a colleague that above the saddle to the right up there a steeper section needs to be climbed... Is that necessary? Thanks for the reply! Best
lynx16. 09. 2013
You won't be able to help yourself much with a rope on the ascent and currently snow and ice should concern you more. The harder section is quite short (I) and shouldn't cause problems for someone used to steep scrambling. But if you belong to that category I can't know, but if I judge from the uploaded photos, you have no business on MMP. The approach to the Three Larches seemed harder to me, but maybe we didn't hit the ideal access.
JusAvgustin17. 09. 2013
I think you missed MMP in dry conditions this year
jedriličar17. 09. 2013
Check out my photos on hribi.net
http://www.hribi.net/trenutnerazmere.asp?slo=1&gorovjeid=1&id=2756&stran=3
There the path through the cauldrons is described, and on photo 13 is the section that needs to be climbed ...
Also at the top of that section (right of the guy in the yellow shirt) there is a piton hammered in which can be used for abseiling if it's slippery for descent (the piton can be found, it's right at the exit from the climbing section of the wall). Cheers and stay safe ....
AnzeKozjek17. 09. 2013
lynx, no need to conclude from photos, because these are impressions of experiences that we did with my girlfriend... I have a buddy with whom I tackle much more demanding tours... maybe not quite alpinistic... besides, I'm not from yesterday and I know that for me alone a rope wouldn't be useful, but I'd secure with a buddy if there's a slightly harder section.... Thanks anyway! Lp
AnzeKozjek17. 09. 2013
Thanks sailor! nasmeh
andrejp20. 10. 2014
this is really a lot of gravel... but so beautiful. Yesterday of course fantastic day, under the larches we made our own spur up the right side (back on the planned normal route on the left). The hardest for us was crossing two couloirs, where the gravel is extremely hard and it's hard to make a step. Just below the saddle some climbing next to the snow, then to the top in the sunshine. Yesterday alone on the summit, but all surrounding peaks were visited. Super.
gregah26. 07. 2021 13:52:17
Today, 26.7.21 I found a red Apple mobile on the middle Kotel. This was already out of the climbing section through the gully towards Na Pečeh. Info Grega, 041 226 886
franc.rozman@adventure.si15. 08. 2022 19:57:28
On Sunday 14.8.2022 three of us were on this tour. By the way, we "pofočkali" at B. III. - crowd of sleeping bagsmežikanje. Judging by the gear, a lot of climbing is happening in these parts again. Just before the Three larches, on the left side a red pillar sent a considerable rockfall into the gully, which needs to be crossed in the gully. In the gully before the ascent to Three larches there is still a lot of sand and scree, but it's not particularly hard to follow the path, the peg with auxiliary rope is still in place. At Three larches /logbook/ two fast alpinists overtook us, who went climbing to Mali oltar. Higher up the path to the right is nicely traceable. From the saddle, where you look into Velika dnina, in nice scrambling /peg/ to the logbook. No snow on the path. At the summit itself, we three met the other three. For such a mountain, quite a lot of visitors I would say. Return through Kotle. Plenty of cairns. Here and there you have to search for them more intensely. I hope these updated info will be useful to someone. Good luck.
matic416. 07. 2023 08:11:12
Recently there was a minor windthrow, further from the junction to the cabin, before the path steeply ascends and crosses the stream (for picture 10). Trees are piled one on top of the other there in a radius of about 100m. Passage is possible but difficult, better to bypass this section on the left side, then steeply up about 50m, when the steepness eases, right to the marked path, further the path is normally passable.
di25. 06. 2024 18:33:05
Are there still consequences from the felled trees?
Will someone fix this, when?
kolpa17. 07. 2024 13:43:56
Hello! In the coming days I plan to conquer MMP, but I have a question for experts of the Martuljek Mountains. Which approach is more suitable, via Velika Dnina - Vrh MMP or the bivak Za Akom-Pri treh macesnih-Vrh MMP approach? Thanks for the answer.
djimuzl17. 07. 2024 15:00:29
The best is via Kotle, see description https://www.hribi.net/izlet/gozd_martuljek_na_peceh_cez_kotle/1/1384/2314
From the top of Kotlov you reach the described path in a good half hour.
The approach from Dnina is a live mess in dry conditions...
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