| alyas9. 07. 2023 20:02:16 |
Zeleniške Spires - conditions and view of the tour 8.7.2023
About Zeleniške Spires – the ridge separating Repov kot and Bela valley and joining mighty Planjava at Srebrno sedlo, a lot has been written /e.g. Habjan - Brezpotja, or Mihelič - Slovenske stene, etc., so no need to repeat descriptions and words here. Describing a ridge traverse: up-down over horns, towers and notches also doesn't make much sense, unless we want to add some personal note, adventure and feeling to the event, even difficulty opinions can vary greatly among recreational and amateur climbers, as well as tour timing, since it's mostly dependent on individual's psychophysical condition, experience and knowledge.
Of course one can evoke a general or personal impression for the reader, but even an ordinary hiker or a bit more experienced mountaineer will look at such description and pictures quite differently, for some hard or beyond abilities, for others easy and no rope needed.
Sometimes I even smirked that some posts with a bunch of pictures and no condition descriptions are more suitable for FB or other friendly social networks, lately I see it differently too - every objective description and tour presentation is ultimately subjective. Only if you personally know the author/writer or have been with him somewhere, can you realistically place such contribution and assess tour difficulty.
Finally then to what the author of this note objectively observed and subjectively felt on the tour in question. Repov kot was until last year unmarked but traceable pathless route, now from somewhere in the middle onwards it's almost to Srebrno sedlo "red lined", in between some big red cross painted, in short mess that doesn't belong in such environment and nature, (good that the painter at least hit the direction somewhat right).
Approach via gully, when above pools we turn towards ridge below Stanič, currently nicely traceable and without peculiarities. From Stanič summit down one can abseil, but rope must be long enough, wall is over 40 m. First part of ridge traverse is easier for me, though exclusively along ridge edge, to Debela špica and then in second part, when rock is no longer so solid, need to pay more attention to that fact. Climbing down from Stanič if not hit right and up to Debela špica felt personally most demanding to me, anyway – if you rope up at start, continuing roped is also most suitable and safe.
In first part no bypasses, must stick to ridge, in second part can avoid some horns and towers, mostly on left, only on Debela špica some bypass by climbing too far left – or if you don't believe in heavenly ladder, can become harder (up to III) than normal. Further on some shorter more demanding spots, depending how we tackle them, but towards end width and bypass options at traverse increase significantly.
When descending from Najvišji rob to Srebrno sedlo below Planjava, we have several continuation options: either turn back immediately to Repov kot and return (here we can admire almost the whole traversed ridge downhill, return also shortest time-wise), below Planjava continue on marked path west to Sukalnik and to Kamniško sedlo – and from there comfortable path back to Kamniška Bistrica or Jermanca, only continuation from Srebrno sedlo east to planina Korošica must have real sense or consideration, as descent to Bela valley and Kamniška Bistrica would be much harder and longer to start point.
I hope Triglav practice won't come here in future, if to Kamniška Bistrica (as almost already from Mojstrana to Vrata) they'll drive only "buses" from Kamnik or Lj?!
I'm no prophet, but God forbid that it really happens here someday 
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