Triglav - Slovenian Route
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| garmont28. 08. 2017 10:37:50 |
LG, congrats on ascent.
Still remember when years ago you hesitated on Kepa via marked path....
Bravo again. 
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| rinča28. 08. 2017 13:22:53 |
LG, gotta smile at you. Interesting way of finding rope team 
Congrats on ascent.
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| redbull12. 08. 2018 21:03:51 |
Slovenian route - via north ridge to Triglav summit (12.08.18)
Slovenian nothing special, some snow in gully bypassed on the right. Instead of Frelih exit we took Prevc and continued to Kugy ledge. Above German exit headed up to north ridge on crumbly grade 2. Found grade 3 too. From left climbed to ridge and in extremely nice scrambling while watching procession from Kredarica direction conquered our Očak. Descent to Kredarica and via Prag to valley. At the end a bit on ferrata Mojstrana.
Good luck
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| ljubitelj gora12. 08. 2018 22:47:19 |
Morning nothing promising, light drizzle, mists over summits. We said go check entry, I climbed last year and the route remained in good memory. Already at entry some of us and weather improved every minute, determined for Slovenian route. Past larches and onwards along the route. Rock dry, some places a bit wet. In Slovenian gully still some snow, no trouble if climbing right. Chose Frelih ledge, onwards up gully then a bit left under window to the left past pegs. Above window right upwards. Soon on Frelih ledge. Climbed on and continued to exit. Descended via Prag to valley.
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| sonny41. 09. 2018 17:46:16 |
30.8. first time on Slovenian Route. I wanted to climb it completely solo for the first time, but after what I saw I can say it would be a big challenge. With a buddy we belayed three times, though it could be done without. Orientation is demanding, it helped a lot that two weeks earlier we climbed the short German Route with a guide. There are cairns at some spots, classic variants are also well-trodden. Good orientation points are Macesni, then Bele plate, Bučarjeva stena, Slovenian gully, end of which is quite varied. Transition to Frelih ledge is on scree. After the ledge continuation is fairly simple. In short, mostly without special issues, for me most demanding was passage over boulder in gully, most exposed is Frelih ledge. Super tour, for connoisseurs, worth repeating.
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| sAleska19. 10. 2018 15:44:01 |
Funnyboy that was me with the group. Nice to read that blog, but I think no III in Bučarjeva and nowhere else we went. Anyway thanks for pleasant company.
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| funnyboy19. 10. 2018 19:33:26 |
sAleska
I saw your post right after the tour. Nice thanks to you too for the recommended bypasses.
Regarding the grade (III): I gave it where it seemed harder to me, I also helped myself a bit with the description. But there are so many variants in the route, perhaps you can stay within II the whole time if you know where to go. We "pushed" a bit around, maybe we found a harder passage than the one you two chose. Especially those slabs over the jammed rock were surely III (easier, of course, beside the rock)
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| sAleska21. 10. 2018 22:08:24 |
Funnyboy, there are really many variants. Every year I go solo through it. We saw only the last one, who went over the rock. Once I climbed the slabs over that rock too, because the snow bridge over the rock was very thin. Over the slabs it is really harder, especially without a rope.
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| funnyboy22. 10. 2018 08:26:11 |
Yes, it is.
I think we made a good decision to take the rope with us, especially since most of us went for the first time. It came in handy at two spots. Definitely possible without it by choosing passages. Over those jumps probably easier if there is more snow
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| John24. 10. 2018 11:47:07 |
Hi.
Interesting "debates" and opinions on the Wall, Slovenian route. I must admit that it fascinates me quite a bit. Somehow I am firmly decided to conquer it next August or September or when basically no "winter gear" is needed. But I am in a dilemma whether with a guide or with someone skilled in belaying and rope technique etc., or just with a group of fairly experienced hikers.
From some forum posts, this route can be climbed quite safely without belaying if you choose the right variants, which apparently is not the easiest (orientation). From the pictures and videos seen, what worries me most is Frelih's traverse. It seems really narrow to me.
In short, I would be very glad for some more opinion, without bigmouth and unnecessary "scaring" but rather some realistic opinion as much as possible.
I am a relatively experienced hiker, many very demanding secured paths, sports via ferratas etc., in short, I have some experience in rock.
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| sAleska24. 10. 2018 13:30:27 |
It really depends on experience, orientation ability and conditions. First time the great Štremfelj took me through and belayed me. Since then I go alone every year. But I go out on the Prevčev exit, which is easier. This year I took one who went here for the first time. I had the chance to observe how she climbs before and knew she could manage.
So I think for the first time go with someone who knows the route and knows how to belay.
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| dprapr24. 10. 2018 18:34:57 |
Secured paths, sports via ferratas have nothing in common with wall climbing, even if the route difficulty is "only" III/II.
The Slovenian route additionally requires a good sense of orientation because the route is not short. In it one can easily stray into harder terrain. Essential is knowledge of climbing and belaying with a rope and reading descriptions, even if it may not be needed.
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| funnyboy24. 10. 2018 19:06:54 |
I agree with the predecessors.
For the first time, in my opinion it's good to go with someone who knows the route well, and it's not silly to have some rope with you - it can come in handy.
Anyway, everyone decides for themselves. If you're set up with someone who knows the route well, he'll tell you what and how himself...
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| ljubitelj gora24. 10. 2018 20:15:29 |
100 or 200 euros+ you give to a mountain guide and he'll take you through the Slovenian Route yet this year. When you climb it you'll be the happiest, you'll be in the right hands, roped and safety will be taken care of to the max.
Mountain guide: https://www.facebook.com/grega.kofler
tel: 041 608 297
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| John25. 10. 2018 06:11:09 |
Thanks everyone for your comments or opinions.
#sAleska I assume you "master" it, you exit at Prevca, how come not via Frelih traverse?
#dprapar absolutely agree that secured paths and sport via ferratas are "another song" than wall climbing, I just wanted to say I have some basics in strength and rock movement.
#ljubitelj gora tnx for link or contact. Don't understand the price 100 or 200+, depends on what or is it more like price by agreement?
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| sonny425. 10. 2018 11:25:04 |
@John, last two years I've done about 50 ascents on the most difficult via ferratas, winter ascents in gullies and mountains, "alpine ascent" off-trail, some sport climbing and protected routes. I can say that Slovenian Route, if I did it first time alone, I'd rank it right at the top for difficulty. I went with a better climber, both first time in Slovenian. One thing is route protection, which are anyway made so any city shirt climbs them, another is being unroped on rock, grade II, below you few 100m drop. Technically not that hard, more need calm head all 4-5 hours. It's long. Can't get lost, can't go back. Weather must be good. It goes, but not easy, for us non-climbers.
By the way, as I hear, in winter usually to Prevca, in summer Frelih is used.
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