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Spike above the Nose (Fornon del Buinz)

IgorZlodej22. 12. 2015 16:17:41

From Pecol past the barn eastwards and up pathless grass above Fontana del Pradon, followed by traverse under the south walls of the Nose and along SE slopes to C-M path, and in a few minutes at the bivouac.

We descended by the approach route.

(+5)

bagi28. 12. 2015 11:09:23

Approach via classic past Špik nasty ledge. Snow just a sample, but hard in the morning so Veriga's teeth come in handy. No point taking serious crampons, ice axe nowhere to put. Rock dry at all scrambles. Helmet useful because of flying projectiles from slope heating. Ibex contribute some too. Road to Pecol or Montaževa planina icy in upper flat section.

The notch is only slightly snowy. In shaded areas there is even less snow

Pleasant surprise. Good souls have provided stone salt for the chamois

Whole flocks are basking in the *summer* sun at the end of December 2015

Evening shadows are already licking the slopes

The rocks glowed in wonderful red-yellow color

Montaževa group just before the sun departed

(+11)

IgorZlodej23. 01. 2016 21:03:18

Today from Pecol past Rifugio Brazza, then a bit towards Luca Vuerich bivouac, then more right and direct up the central part of west slopes of Špik above the Nose.

Some steeper sections, some barely snowed ledges, then long uniform steep snowy slopes to the west "shoulder". There junction with Ceria-Merlone path and along it to West summit.

Descent partly by ascent route, partly a bit around, consequently also to check passages for ski descent.

Conditions ideal, afternoon due to warm sun started to loosen a bit, but night will fix it again. At least morning will be frozen again wink

It was clearing from the west already in the morning.

icy in places, but with experience and appropriate equipment fully manageable

left Špik nad Špranjo, in the middle Main peak of Špik nad Nosom with bivouac L. V., right Lopa

neighbor Viš and neighboring Koštrunove špice

(+7)

Pankrt9. 07. 2016 10:41:10

Yesterday from Planina Pecol to saddle above Tratica and to summit Špik above Nose... Bivouac on summit was a nice positive surprise (nice, clean, tidied, stocked with survival stuff)...
You can see, in these wonderful corners there are no Czechs... wink

velkavrh16. 07. 2017 06:19:30

It seems there have been no later posts for this beautiful peak of the Poliški Špiki. On the summit there's a wonderful bivouac that I admired a couple years ago. Back then I descended into the Krni Dol area along the old abandoned mulatiera. This time we planned a short loop too, but during recon they found too many torn cables down to Krni Dol, so we returned the same way. To Škrbina nad Tratico is a nice stroll. The path is wide enough but somewhat exposed in places and needs careful steps. Below the vast Planina Pekol is clearly visible with numerous large barns and a dairy on its right edge. Livestock except at one barn wasn't out yet so early on pasture. Shepherds are always present here, driving animals into barns or pens at night. This preserves pastures better. At Škrbina nad Tratico short scree then first cables await. At the cavern we donned helmets and gear and off to the cables. First cable climb test this year for most in group. Cables flawless. Many pitches not tensioned of course. Rock dry, pleasure to climb. Squeeze through narrow chimney then some easy free climbing on rock, not demanding. Careful descending there. Path then levels on nice ledges nearing summit. Spot twin summit of Špik nad Nosom with beautiful bivouac dedicated to late alpinist Luka. Sadly sky closed right after arrival at this for me nicest bivouac around, no views. No herd of male ibex today. Just two fighting up in rocks. Saw many females with young and lots of juveniles. Even marmot at Planina Pekol fence. Flower time of course. Triglav gentian and rose blooming on Špik pod Nosom rocks. Planina Pekol smells chocolate or vanilla however you sniff from rhelikanija murks. Worth visiting neighbor Špik nad Nosom - Špik Hude Police easiest peak. King of Poliški Špiki undoubtedly Montaž only for brave.

Start at Planina Pekol with PD Škofja Loka, to do a little advertising for the society.

The right summit will be our goal, it seems far away – about four hours up there. For these fast three hours.

The notch above Tratica was clearly visible.

Attraction already on the pasture at Planina Pekol – we're looking at the rock face.

From Planina Pekol there is a beautiful view of the Kanin range.

Here the path turns right onto the Ceria-Merlon path.

At the junction of this path they invite bivouac at Špik nad Nosom.

The weather turns bad - over the only snow before the climbing.

At the chimney - somehow you have to squeeze through and climb it.

Flower of Škofja Loka mountaineers, but there are also people from Kranj among them.

The weather was deteriorating and we quickly had a snack and headed down. We met giants who were struggling up the path.

Goodbye until next time - we will return!

(+4)

iskalec16. 07. 2017 07:11:23

Is descent possible via Škrbina pod Tratico to Planina Pecol or is it necessary to go back towards Špik, Hude police?

Mrki16. 07. 2017 09:00:59

The notch is called Škrbina nad Tratico, not pod; from it there is an unmarked path to koča Brazza.

(+2)

ločanka16. 07. 2017 09:45:32

Beautiful was yesterday's trip to Špik nad Nosom, which calls for a repeat, though open views from the top were not favorable. Maybe it was enough for the first visit, as otherwise the beauty of the views would probably hinder catching breath, plus we relieved the guides who had no need to explain the surrounding mountains.

Even the ibex below the summit tiredly lay down and curled into a ball. Probably waiting for a better view.

V. Nabojs, Viš, Koštrun špice from the path, at the summit we could only sense them

forgotten on the summit, there were many various guesses

he was tired, there were no proper views

Amariana and Monte Pisimoni from the summit, under the fog

from around the bend on Škrbina nad Tratico

The sympathetic pyramid in the background is Amariana, which I managed to identify from Igor Z.'s records.

(+8)

miri16. 07. 2017 11:24:12

No. 12, quite a nice number.

velkavrh16. 07. 2017 16:00:18

Explanation to pic no. 18 from ločanka. Left lower peak is Zabuš-Monte Zabus-2244m. Then we see saddle. Left starts Strma Peč. Poorly visible forepeak of Strme Peči-Pizzo Vienne-2037m. Behind it rises 300m higher Strma Peč.

With colleague waited here nearby two hours for better weather for Montaž and somehow climbed to saddle Forca Bassa before Zabuš. Before saddle right are Klovni noži-Curtissons, over them one climbs to smaller peak Jof dei Diesteis-2230m. Below it saddle-Škrbina Vrh Strmali-Forca Deisteis-2201m. To here from Pekol parking two hours-it drags.

Zabuš from Klovnih nožev. In between is Forca Bassa-2070m. Here vertical walls drop far into the depths.

Here my colleague and I experienced glory for the first time.

View across Klovnih nožev to the saddle - to Škrbina Vrh Strmali.

Mrki16. 07. 2017 21:30:56

Branko, explain where the taverna is, where you put on your helmets. (taverna = tavern, inn)

(+5)

velkavrh17. 07. 2017 13:23:35

Indeed, a typing lapsus happens to me often. Correct is cavern. It is an artificial cave usually carved in rock and served in WWI as shelter from artillery or air attack. Could serve as ammo storage. E.g., on Sabotin they had a mechanical workshop with bunks for mechanics in one cavern. Even saw a super-equipped cavern for officers.

lijaneja17. 07. 2017 15:00:35

(+4)

Todi12. 08. 2017 16:52:22

In these parts it is really nice and peaceful, today Mih and I headed out. Start Nevejski preval direction Planina Krni Dol and further where Mulatiera takes us right under 2351 m Vrh Krnega Dola.
Here the saddles continue where the path joins Ceria Merlone. And from there onwards along the ledges to our goal for today. From the top descent direction Planina Pecol to Koča Brazza for coffee and back to start Nevejski preval.

(+9)

malimiha12. 08. 2017 17:28:09

Today with Metod I did a nice route. Really nice in these parts especially peace and no crowds. Todi's pictures say it all smile

(+2)

Todi13. 08. 2017 05:36:42

Yesterday it was really awesome,
https://youtu.be/iNCfargq4B8

(+2)

panda13. 08. 2017 08:42:12

Metod: congrats and praise from my side for the complete "technical" documentation and the completed tour. smile

(+1)

Todi13. 08. 2017 18:50:48

@panda, thanks smile

julya28. 08. 2017 20:08:26

Oh! Has anyone from this path gone to Špik nad Špranjo too? Where did you go - is it possible perhaps along the ridge or from the south side? I'll be glad for any experience.

julya1. 09. 2017 17:54:54

We checked it all ourselves on site: to Špik nad Špranjo we went from Buinz saddle (does it really have no Slovenian name??) eastwards until we circled a large grassy promontory which is followed by a scree ledge. Above it opens a nice passable slope to the summit - nothing harder, summit nicely solitary.

(+3)

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Spike above the Nose (Fornon del Buinz)