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Skuta

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Tadej Bolta2. 02. 2016 23:14:35
Today I went to Skuta via Gamsov skret, then to the ridge via the south couloir of Štruca. Snow a bit south-facing. It sinks in rarely. On the descent past Štruca on the marked path the snow compared to last week is already quite gone and therefore the descent very demanding.
Kamniška Bistrica1
view at the bench2
view from the southern couloir of Štruca3
under the roof of Štruca4
view towards Grintovec5
descent and view of the very barren wall...6
during descent the view at the bench was no longer there7
chamois!8
in the fog9
(+11)like
redbull20. 03. 2016 17:07:35
On Saturday my buddy and I set off via Žmavčarje to Skuta. A few warm days and night frosts were enough for the morning ascent. Until nine o'clock it still goes somehow, later it's all too hot. It was all untouched, probably from early February in that part. We continued to Pode and up the gully between Mlinarsko sedlo and Grintovec to the north side below it. From there of course to it. We descended over the roof to the hut, where there were quite a few visitors. We continued to the saddle between Kalska gora and the fork for K.greben. It wasn't safe to the mentioned first summit, so we climbed only a few meters to the first bump and went back down the ascent path. There's a huge amount of snow under Kokrsko sedlo, in the afternoon it sinks in from knees to ass. Best to take a children's shovel for faster descentnasmeh.

Report:
http://deyangrm.blogspot.si/2016/03/deviska-skuta-in-grintovec-19316.html

Good luck

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Two skutas.6
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Towards Kalška gora (or the saddle).11
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alpin20. 03. 2016 18:17:57
Who else, if not you! Super tour, congratulations!!
(+5)like
svetilnik25. 03. 2016 06:20:05
redbull, bravo guys, wonderful tour and photos! This is also my wish, but as inexperienced I'll try to join some experienced group in the future and achieve the goal... then everything will be easier nasmeh
(+3)like
skymark25. 03. 2016 12:22:01
No doubt, redbull is top. Unfortunately I can't join you, because I'm too slow for youmrk pogled.
Maybe sometime....mežikanje
(+2)like
Tadej Bolta27. 04. 2016 01:38:24
Yesterday climbed with brother in the gully between Skuta and Štruca. Tour 13 hours long. Good 4 hours for the route. Followed long traverse of Dolgega hrbta, then descent from Mlinarskega to Jezersko. Last part of descent to Češka we abseiled, approx 130m.

Conditions in the route mixed. Bottom all iced up, snow frozen. Problem are the steps, which are already quite bare. Some are still ice-formed, but a lot of scratching on rocks. We looked for optimal passages, so there were quite a few traverses. The higher you go, the less snow - some melted by sun, some blown away by wind.

Weather rather sour. In the morning it still promised a bit, then fog came, which somewhat complicated finding optimal passages. On the summit it was really windy. On descent already nicely snowing.
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(+29)like
Viper27. 04. 2016 09:56:09
Bravo
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Guest27. 04. 2016 12:47:34
Bravo, luck accompanies the brave.
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lino27. 04. 2016 13:50:40
Tadej, you and your brother had the will, knowledge, courage, fitness and also a bit of luck for such a long and demanding tour. Lots more luck and enjoyment on such demanding tours. This tour isn't easy even in dry and nice weather.
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mihajlovich11227. 04. 2016 14:33:31
Superb! Bravo guys! nasmehnasmeh

Good luck
(+3)like
Tadej Bolta28. 04. 2016 11:04:17
lino, for summer I'm not sure, but I think you don't go directly to Skuta from Ledine at least, unless you're climbing... we had a bit of luck though. first with snow conditions, then a bit with the weather, which ultimately wasn't so bad...
(+5)like
lino28. 04. 2016 11:27:14
Tadej, I meant the summer tour on the marked path from Jezersko, Ledine, Križ, Skuta, Dolgi hrbet, Mlinarsko sedlo, Češka koča, Jezersko. Regards!
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SamoK28. 04. 2016 11:29:06
lino, you're shooting blanks, as always!
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redbull28. 04. 2016 12:03:14
Ahh Lino, here you completely missed the tour. Surely you don't know the entry and exit of Tadej's tour.
Congratulations

Good luck
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lino28. 04. 2016 13:46:03
Redbull, I admit, if I said I know, I'd be lying. I hope that's half forgiven. I wrote that because I walked it a few years ago in dry conditions.
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Tadej Bolta28. 04. 2016 14:04:32
No, no, don't attack linota right away. In summer you just go a bit around, if I got him right, past Rink. In winter due to snow you can go direct to the top. There are lots of options. Some depend on snow conditions. My brother and I went direct up from the hut. I'm attaching a picture. Our route is 37.17

PS: these are alpinistic ascents, so don't think anyone can tackle this without knowledge, experience, etc.
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(+11)like
ločanka28. 04. 2016 14:13:27
Great, Tadej, so we'll guess less stupidly where you climbed
(+5)like
esque29. 04. 2016 18:46:46
That booklet by Kresal is top! One of my best buys velik nasmeh Super route. With my girlfriend we wanted to climb this left variant completely a while ago, but conditions were too poor. Teranova nice for climbing and also access to this gully, so no need to go through Žrelo all the time to Ledine. When you see Saša Kamenjev's memorial from below, you're not surprised why it has such a rating nasmeh
(+3)like
SiKT29. 05. 2016 12:52:45
Yesterday on Skuta via Turski žleb, from below Turski žleb all the way to Skuta summit there's still quite some snow. Crampons and ice axe needed in the gully and then before entering Skuta and to the top. Intermediate flatter areas can be crossed without crampons. Snow in the morning not too south-exposed yet, later very much. Recommended...

Skuta in late winter conditions
(+7)like
vstarc1630. 05. 2016 08:36:30
On Saturday 21.5. we ascended from the cable car to Kokrško sedlo via Žmavčarje to the new bivouac below Skuta. Continuous snow starts at 1850 m.

Bivouac is nice, architecturally integrated into the space, bothers me that there are no blankets in it. Bivouac is a climbing base and now besides climbing gear you need to carry a sleeping bag. It's also a shelter on the way between Okrešelj and Cojzova koča and a blanket can come in handy for a soaked mountaineer. Lack of blankets won't stop those who want to stay multiple days - in BIV even though it's 'cleaned' some still bivouac for days.

On Sunday 22.5. we went to Skuta via Streža. Except to the branch above bivouac (to there crust that holds lighter) snow was too wet and soft sinking 30-40 cm, above the shoulder (to there possible without crampons) also some mixed and icy parts, in those conditions I'd rate it 45/30-40 degrees, M1. Descended via Štruco, snow on descent from ridge and on slabs below Skuta wall patchy and completely unsupportive so some passages tricky. To valley via Gamsov skret, lots still doable on snow, snow ends at 1420 m. Except in bivouac (which was full) met no one, enjoyed nice weekend Alen, Ivan and Vanja.

Photos: https://picasaweb.google.com/111611792261452845283/6288325736015066161
(+4)like
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