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| Trobec18. 09. 2023 19:43:13 |
This drawn one isn't exactly the easiest. Unless I missed it back then... otherwise according to the guidebook description, the one from the middle of the gully should be easier.
But of course theory is one thing, practice another. Because if you miss that "easiest" one, things get quite harder 
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| dprapr18. 09. 2023 19:52:42 |
Lisac, this picture is familiar to me. 
I see that according to the picture, what I wrote in the comment holds true. Right there where you turn upwards, there's a slightly exposed spot (II). Then scree to the top. For the way back down you need to secure that spot.
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| lijaneja18. 09. 2023 20:36:02 |
The red drawn variant is totally o.k., I use it when there are people in the gully and avoid potential projectiles.
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| LISAC18. 09. 2023 20:38:59 |
lijaneja question; do you think the red variant is easier up/down than the main gully up/down? Thanks
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| lijaneja18. 09. 2023 20:50:09 |
I think it's a shade more demanding, especially in wet grass.
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| alyas19. 09. 2023 08:35:25 |
On the ridge: from Kukova Špica over Škrnatarica to Dovški križ
Already Tine Mihelič (Julijske Alpe/Northern approaches) wrote that climbing the ridge Dovški križ – Škrnatarica is a prestigious tour and must not be missing from the list of any true mountaineer. Well, we did it from another, personally more dear to me, direction than Mihelič describes.
The starting point is known; according to new TNP rules you can even park at the end of the gully below Veliki Črloveč (3-4 cars), then follow a well traceable pathless route upwards and in three hours we're already at the saddle Čez Dulce (2257 m). Quick warm-up jump to the right to friendly Kukova Špica (2427 m) and return, all done in under an hour. Then from the saddle follows a more serious ascent (not long, but technically demanding, average between I and II, sometimes a bit more) over the eastern slope to Škrnatarica (2448 m) and then continuation along the beautiful ridge cut to Dovški križ (2542 m), approximately 3 hours of more or less demanding climbing with occasional very airy passages above the cirque of the Martuljek amphitheater.
If for Škrnatarica from the direction of Kukova Špica you don't choose the loaded and supported gully, with some imagination in the relatively wide but steep and partly smooth and very crumbly terrain of the east wall, there are more approach options (some are also mentioned here on the forum). Ascent to Škrnatarica - along a more direct middle line, as we did this time, on ledges left of the notch, I wouldn't recommend without protection; currently there are quite a few pegs hammered in the route for setting up belay systems.
Similarly, it's not easy to free-solo descend (awkward III) that mere 10 m drop from the top of Škrnatarica down to the saddle or notch where the top of the gully leads, and there are also several rope slings hanging there, which can be handy help for someone climbing up here.
In the continuation of the ridge towards Dovški križ, there aren't so many technically difficult spots when crossing two unnamed summits, but here and there you'll find a short II, and if you stick strictly to the ridge you have another approx. 25 m abseil a bit before the window; this section can however also be elegantly bypassed a bit lower along the ledge from the left on the south side.
Descent from DK we did to Šplevta and past Bivouac II at Jezera (but you won't find water there!) and then via the largest Slovenian scree field - downhill express to Poldov rovt. One more info: at the end of the lower scree field, when you're already in the forest, there's still a bit of refreshing water flowing in the gully, otherwise the tour is very very hot in sunny weather.
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| Yulius Kugy19. 09. 2023 12:18:34 |
congratulations - GOOD LUCK !
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| LISAC1. 07. 2024 08:54:22 |
Hi. I'm interested if anyone has recently climbed to Škrnatarica or if there's anything special on the route? Thanks and nice mountain greetings
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| Trobec1. 07. 2024 10:06:06 |
Snow in the gully is interrupted at the jump, so a bit of drytooling That last jump to the top seemed harder to me than last year, maybe something broke off. Up the left still quite easy. More detailed report in the afternoon after work
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| LISAC1. 07. 2024 22:50:37 |
Trobec great. Thanks! I'd appreciate some photo and condition description. Snow is melting nicely though and I plan to attack mid-month or even second half.
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| Trobec2. 07. 2024 19:19:28 |
Then it'll probably be better than through the couloir directly from Gulc. I admit, though, that I haven't been there yet.
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| LISAC2. 07. 2024 21:25:16 |
Trobec, then the couloir is in "last white breaths". As much information as I found, they use it quite a bit for access even in summer. I have scouted from Kukova also directly to the right of the gully. We gotta decide, yeah.
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| LISAC23. 07. 2024 16:48:28 |
Hi. Does anyone have some "fresh field news" on snow conditions in the couloir from Gulc to the summit of Škrnatarica? Thanks in advance
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| Janez Seliškar23. 07. 2024 20:38:32 |
LISAC, you're asking too much, winter season will be over soon. Just go on that tour! And report on the conditions, of course.
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| lijaneja23. 07. 2024 20:51:31 |
Try and delete the duplicate. You still can today.
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| LISAC23. 07. 2024 22:16:23 |
Janez, I'll do it 🙂 Regarding the trail condition I always like to prepare as best as possible for the tour.
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| Janez Seliškar24. 07. 2024 07:33:10 |
lijaneja, the editor should deal with that, I wrote it only once (1x).
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| lijaneja24. 07. 2024 07:42:53 |
Already wrote it, but confirmed twice within four seconds.
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| Janez Seliškar24. 07. 2024 07:47:56 |
lijaneja thanks! The editor can delete it.
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| Tadej24. 07. 2024 08:10:32 |
I deleted Janez's second message.
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