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Planjava - Wisiakova Gully

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bampl200412. 01. 2009 10:46:02
Some pictures from Wisiakova gully and then the path to the summit of Planjava!
Planjava - Wisiakova Gully Start of Wisiakova grapa.1
Planjava - Wisiakova Gully First jump. 2
Planjava - Wisiakova Gully Upper part of the gully.3
Planjava - Wisiakova Gully Towards the summit!4
Planjava - Wisiakova Gully Wisiakova grapa. Entry and exit.5
Planjava - Wisiakova Gully First jump!6
Planjava - Wisiakova Gully Second jump and snow slab! Nasty thing!7
Planjava - Wisiakova Gully Overcoming the second jump.8
Planjava - Wisiakova Gully At the top of the gully. Wonderful view of the Ljubljana Basin, Julian Alps,...9
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sebanakis12. 01. 2009 18:52:57
Where is this gully?
I'd like to climb it, but don't know exactly where the entry is?
How flooded are the pitches?
Rope needed?

If I can get a bit more description and pics by mail: sebastjan.potocnik@gmail.com
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sebanakis12. 01. 2009 18:55:24
Aha, and I'm interested in the length of the route?
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bampl200413. 01. 2009 00:32:08
I've uploaded another picture where I've drawn where the gully route goes. The jumps are well filled. Full gear and caution are definitely needed. The gully is quite icy in the initial section between jumps in some parts. At 9:30 AM snow was already pouring decently from the upper part of the gully which further complicated climbing. Rocks fell in between. From the top of the gully it's possible to continue to Planjava summit but the tour is quite strenuous. Fitness won't hurt. I recommend reading the climbing guide. Safe journey.
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bampl200413. 01. 2009 00:39:27
Although avalanche level is 1, which should mean safe path to the mountains, this small avalanche surprised me exactly that day at Kamniško sedlo on descent from Planjava. Careful!
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sebanakis13. 01. 2009 09:05:27
I climbed Kramar, then Teranovo, routes on Begunjščica. Thanks for pics, think I'll go when I have a bit more time to climb it. Thanks
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Wine13. 01. 2009 09:19:23
Is this gully much harder than e.g. the SE gully on Tosc?
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Matt4. 03. 2009 17:50:54
Has anyone been recently in the Kamnik-Savinja Alps? If so, I'd ask them to tell me what the conditions are likenasmeh
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Primož764. 03. 2009 19:21:30
On Saturday quite a few avalanches slid in the Brana and Planjava gullies. Already in the morning. It was very warm indeed. One avalanche sadly took the lives of two alpinists. If you search the internet a bit, you'll see that visiting the high mountains is currently not recommended, mainly due to new precipitation this week. My opinion.
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Matt4. 03. 2009 19:52:13
Thanks!!
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Arafat7623. 12. 2011 10:32:51
And who knows what the conditions are in Planjava-Wisiakova gully, or Kalški greben?
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redbull17. 03. 2017 07:08:29
In the early hours, Wisiakova gully offers excellent conditions. Due to the shady lower part, even later hours shouldn't be a problem. To the Planjava summit, you can't have a better base than now. Descent via the ascent route (winter) and normal route to the saddle. Also climb to Brana via winter route, just enough snow. Exit to Šije ridge and cross not far. Descent on the left side past the big rock as usual in such conditions. It was late morning, but needed to go to work. These days/weeks offer great conditions for such climbs
Report:
http://deyangrm.blogspot.si/2017/03/planjava-in-brana-160317.html
entry gully1
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from Sukalnik onwards3
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Planjava with the box5
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entry to the Šija ridge7
view from Brana8
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pantani117. 03. 2017 07:29:08
Nicely described. Safe steps further.
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Bandzo17. 03. 2017 20:15:38
Hats off for before work nasmeh

Best,
Ben
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dprapr18. 03. 2017 08:52:54
Where is the youth?zavijanje z očmi
Now it's really super to do the ascent early in the morning if your "engine" allows it.
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grega_z_brega18. 03. 2017 08:53:54
expensive, don't pile on.jeziknasmeh
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ločanka18. 03. 2017 09:04:29
Youth isn't everything eithernasmehnasmeh
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Lunatixz4. 01. 2020 14:49:22
Does anyone know what the conditions are or if the gully is icy also in the lower part? Thanks and best regards!
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matic45. 01. 2020 10:38:44
Not icy, way too little snow.
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Dr_Ursic5. 04. 2020 16:04:12
Wisiakova gully this season was never well icy but currently it can be climbed. 1st pitch more or less icy base - 2nd pitch firm hard snow excellent for kicking.
At the end turn left into the couloir and not towards "Sukavnik" some scrambling and join the marked path. Descent to saddle and winter ascent to Brana - exit left of Cross to Šija ridge. Descent by "usual" winter to saddle.
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redbull5. 04. 2020 16:44:29
Solid tour, you exploited the gully's last breaths. bravo Dave
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