Off-trail ramble under Križevnik above Robanov kot
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| katja8716. 10. 2014 13:05:18 |
Since we wanted something new, we headed under the walls of Križevnik above Robanov kot. From the start, the marked path only goes to the partisan hospital, then it ends. On the rock by the path it says the path ahead is only for alpinists. Of course it was immediately visible, since there's no path ahead at all. So we enjoyed off-trail walking and exploring passages. Suddenly we came to an interesting cave and went past it further, and found a gully which after a II degree climb leads to the bivouac under the climbing walls. There we took some time to rest and soon headed on. Soon we reached a part where we didn't know where to go next, so we descended and bushwhacked right through the junipers. That's how we got to a rock jump where we rappelled about 20m on rope. Then we were soon back in the forest and on the marked path. We walked 9 hours.
The trip was extremely interesting and somewhat adrenaline-pumping. I recommend it to all who crave off-trail and exploring paths and passages  It was already visible in the bivouac logbook that this part of the mountains is very little visited, as only a few have walked around here this year.
More photos and trip description on the website of Mountaineering Association Matica Murska Sobota: http://www.pdmaticams-drustvo.si/
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| dprapr7. 11. 2015 22:51:35 |
The title of today's hike could be the one above from Katja, but adding the approach to Križevnik.
With my brother, we quickly (as usual) arranged yesterday evening for a visit or rather wandering around Križevnik. Since we had already done the left part with the bivouac and the approach via Rescue Route some time ago, today we went to see what the approach from the right side, from Roban Pasture, looks like.
We started in front of the wooden fence of Roban Pasture and headed left across the stream bed into the forest towards the prominent gully. Based on the available descriptions (Brezpotja, V. Habjan), I have to say that Janez Trogar's description was more useful. Perhaps it would be best to start about 150m before the fence below and head to the gully on the other side of the stream, in the forest. Anyway, we found the gully right away and climbed up it for quite a while. It's quite comfortable, rocks stable, no excess scree. And not too steep. Here and there you need to scramble a bit.
In between, at the junction to the bivouac (which I also explored), we went right on a path to a viewpoint ledge. When the gully closed, we didn't look for an easier bypass on the right side (but we returned that way), but climbed up the left fork of the gully (difficult) and reached an intermediate ridgelet and behind it to a deep chasm. Above it via a steep gully and then along the "comfortable" path on the ledge to the ridge. On the terrain itself, we have the feeling that this is something quite different from a wide ledge. At the top, the exit is to a clearing where paths cross.
After a rest in the warm sun on the summit, we descended again into the cold, shady wall of Križevnik. Below the gully jump (about 200m), we turned right on a path towards the main wall of Križevnik (bivouac). Below the bivouac, we crossed the gully and continued along the usual "path" of climbers visiting the Križevnik wall. The path was harder to follow in the lower part due to leaves. Nevertheless, after a good eight hours, we finished the tour at Roban.
Despite November, a great day for such a tour!
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| geppo8. 11. 2015 05:56:24 |
Hi
Once you reach the chasm, it's quite easy to find the passage to the top.
But there can be plenty of difficulties with the return traverse to the right like you two did. We once reached this "Central Gully" below the climbing wall. But then we returned to the approach gully and down it to Roban Valley. This wide wall of Križevnik is very interlaced with paths that suddenly end, and for someone who doesn't know it, it can be quite tricky.
regards
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| JTrogar19. 06. 2016 20:32:58 |
It started for us yesterday in a beautiful morning. We started our tour at the parking lot in front of Roban Farmstead. When we start taking things out of the car, Milan realizes he forgot the right backpack at home. He always has the other stuff in the car anyway. So he's just without food and drink. He asks friendly Roban for an empty bottle, but gets a full one of flavored water. We were really surprised that in such a clean environment people buy water. Food will be a bit of mine fifty-fifty. By the slope to the partisan hospital we were both already all sweaty, as there was quite a lot of moisture in the air. A little above the hospital we catch up with two alpinists on a break, chat a bit with them, then they speed ahead, we behind them. Soon we are under the gully leading up to the alpinist bivouac. Overcoming it requires quite some concentration. It's not for nothing written on one wall that this is a path for alpinists. Below the wall a bit before the bivouac we chat again. They tell us the wall is even steeper than 30 years ago when they were last here. They are climbing the route Sivi vrag diff. VIII, first ascended by legend Franček Knez and has had only a couple of repeats to date. We wish each other luck and go our separate ways. Them even more vertically upwards, us on a very long traverse towards Žvižgovec. I remembered Drago's description with quite low delivery below the bivouac , so from the bivouac we continued right under the wall of Križevnik. The traverse is quite tough due to great exposure and steepness above the central gully and doesn't let up until the path to Križevnik from Roban Pasture. There I yelled towards the bivouac and got a yell back from the climbers in the wall. From Alenka and Zlatko, who were wandering a bit higher, we got a hail delivery right there. We had everything: traverses of numerous steep rocky gullies, great exposure, sheer walls below us, snowfield crossings, curious chamois, wonderful views, scree, drinking snowmelt, building cairns and much more nice stuff. The second already known half of the traverse was easier, but with all the aforementioned. When we finally finished this really nice long traverse on Žvižgovec with a view of the walked path, we shook hands hard. We also found something small to eat. We descended along the marked path and after 12h finished this nice tour.
Regards and safe steps to all from under the beautiful Golts, Janez
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| medo*20. 06. 2016 07:44:18 |
Good "path" and nice pictures. I'm interested in the path from Roban Pasture to Križevnik... supposedly not so demanding, but hard to find the starting point, like everything from Roban 
And safe steps to all explorers of these areas
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| JTrogar20. 06. 2016 09:34:07 |
Thanks medo*!
The starting point of the path you're interested in is quite easy to find. It starts at the wood pile on the road before Roban Pasture. There you go left along the fence, descend to the bed of Bela and on the other side of the stream traverse about 100m left through the forest to the gully. Continue up the gully. When the gully closes up top, climb a bit more on the right side and reach a well-visible pathlet. Right goes towards Žvižgovec, you go left for Križevnik. Immediately cross the gully you came by again and continue traversing to the next gully and steeply up it. Right at the beginning of this gully there is a deep chasm on the left side. Further up you can hardly miss the path anymore, as it's very visible. It's nicely drawn a bit higher on Drago's picture (right vertical line). Only the starting point is missing.
Regards and safe step from under the beautiful Golts, Janez
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| dprapr20. 06. 2016 09:57:12 |
Medo, the lower picture also has the start of the path drawn in.
Otherwise, Janez described the "path" very well. Better than in the guidebooks. If you stick to this description, you don't exceed the climbing difficulty level (I).
Janez, that traverse from the bivouac is probably not easy - like the lower one, where there is a pathlet. You reached the path from Roban probably quite high, above the chasm?
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| medo*20. 06. 2016 10:06:19 |
Thanks Dprapr and Janez, we could have met if I had managed to come to Geppo's picnic. We should all get together once, all lovers of Logar Valley pathless routes
Regards and safe step, Medo
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| JTrogar20. 06. 2016 13:31:28 |
Drago, the traverse is tough but still doable without gear. We reached the path from Roban exactly where the gully above the abyss ends. We'll have to go up there together sometime for a ramble.
Best regards and safe steps to all from under the beautiful Golts, Janez
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| pika20. 06. 2016 18:43:43 |
Another trip that takes your breath away . Congrats to both for persistence and good orientation in all those gullies and traverses.
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| ejti20. 06. 2016 22:37:11 |
Bravo, guys! Tour with a capital T.
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| dprapr21. 06. 2018 08:19:17 |
In this steep rock face, left above Roban, you get a sense of smallness, even though the ridge has modest height. In autumn it's a real fridge here. I envy you your wanderings there.
Now there's lots of intoxicatingly scented and vividly yellow nagnoj. Last time we were under Corsijem "purely local".
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| Gorska planika21. 06. 2018 09:10:26 |
And that feeling is pleasant to experience... Wild and fantastic.. and what beautiful places...
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| geppo21. 06. 2018 10:02:59 |
When you're among numerous gullies, towers, above vertical walls, and above you equally mighty steep rock face, you really realize how small you are in this wild forgotten world. And quite some effort and knowledge is needed to return to Robanov kot again...
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| matic419. 07. 2018 19:24:27 |
To Janez's description of the approach from Robanova planina I'd add a couple of details. You climb the gully for one hour to where it closes. In between there are two tough jumps which you can bypass. Already some 50m before the gully closes you head right upward past scree, over grass and higher through forest to the ridge. On the ridge you catch a pathlet that brings you to the traverse path. The path is right under the wall. When you descend into the gully you came by, you climb it another 30m or so and then turn left to the sub-ridge (no path). On the sub-ridge a pathlet appears that takes you exactly to the abyss and gully. At the top of the gully you turn left and reach a pathlet leading left. The pathlet is mostly visible, disappears in grass here and there, sawn branches are good markers.
This approach description doesn't match Habjan's in off-trail. I'd say his approach is one gully further left.
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| dprapr19. 07. 2018 20:02:54 |
Habjan's description talks about approach from below along the ridge right of the gully to where the pathlet to bivouac under Križevnik joins. There turn into the gully and up it to the closure. At closure though left and not right upward. It's a bit harder than the right one!
Above the abyss again same path.
Interesting that he doesn't mention the abyss, which is a very prominent point. Maybe he went along the sub-ridge to the walls and crossed the gully up there and missed the abyss. Yet he mentions a valley(?), which is probably the collapsed gully above the abyss.
His descriptions, no offense, are sometimes too long-winded and complicated. But it's a pleasure to take them in hand after a trip.
http://www2.arnes.si/~mcuder/ are more sparse in words and much more precise!
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| matic421. 07. 2018 18:13:54 |
Drago, on Habjan's sketch his approach gully is drawn one gully further left (see your picture). There the path is completely different. The last part of the path is where the two approaches join.
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| dprapr21. 07. 2018 19:13:51 |
On his sketch the start in the gully is really more left!?
But in the written descriptions "his path" is definitely right of the approach gully. He nicely describes the scenic shoulder with rocks (on my 1st pic) and passage left along the pathlet into the gully under the barrier. Also on descent he mentions that spot in the gully where bivouac turn-off is too.
In my opinion sketch and description don't match!
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| matic421. 07. 2018 19:40:40 |
In the lower part I also walked the ridge right of gully (right after first jump). No path there at all, no sawn branches. Under Križevnik you got bunch of barriers in gullies, scenic shoulders with rocks etc. Important is that the path course matches description, that ain't here.
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