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Marmolada

stankoju13. 09. 2018 19:16:56

On Wednesday 12.9.2018 on Marmolada via glacier path, which was quite hard and icy in the lower part velik nasmeh

. Another super sunny day in the Dolomites, rest in pictures.

(+9)

ŠpRo2914. 09. 2018 07:53:15

Wonderful. You have zs.

velkavrh11. 08. 2019 11:39:12

This year it looks like there weren't many of us on the top of Marmolada at Punta Penia. For years I was checking if some group would lead there. Finally I got my chance. Yesterday I went with PD Tržič. From Tržič we started at 3am and we were almost too late for the cable car return down from Marmolada, because at 5pm they take the last ones down. We drove through Karavanke tunnel and then through Austria to Cortina. Cortina is base for many Dolomites peaks. Then on the road to our start-Passo Fedaia-2.057m. Here there's huge captured water in a big reservoir-Lado di Fedia Lake. To Marmolada itself cable car goes-2626m-This area is called Pian dei Fiacconi. Two get locked in some basket together. Return ticket 15 euros. Nice path also leads up-about one hour to Marmolada. Due to schedule better take cable car. To Marmolada Punta Penia summit we went via ferrata-called Ferrata Cresta Overs. Goes over couple snowfields. Just before ferrata entrance (some saddle Forcella Marmolada)- ice and need crampons. At ferrata start we put on gear and demanding long climb starts-about 3 hours for ferrata. Of course if queue and group ahead even more. Ferrata mostly steep up along cables and countless steps. Almost no pegs. Never climbed so many steps. After ferrata scree to top, kinda unnecessary. Top has big cross and bivak. Photo session of course not missed. From Marmolada top wonderful view of nearby peaks-to right next to Marmolada from valley Piccolo Vernal-3.098, next Gran Vernel-3210m, bit lower Roda de Mulon-2882m. From left Punta Rocca-3310m. Only to this peak full glacier up. Down we went glacier, own kind challenge. Right at descent put on crampons because ice. Before cables down to glacier remove crampons and put back after climbing quite demanding well protected part. Go over two tough chimneys, pendulum in chimney cross to other side and rappel down smooth rock. Hands hurt bit. Then at glacier entry roped 3 per rope carefully down mostly soft snow but steep, icy parts in between. To cable car on time. More than half group took easier path. They saw lots alpine flowers from edelweiss to gentians. Us in rocks snow almost none.

Arrived at the starting point below Marmolada - Passo Fedaia - 2057m.

We immediately went for a ride on the cable car with these baskets.

View from the cable car to the other side, where an easier group of hikers was walking.

This is how this basket looks. Only two people can ride it and they must be quick at entry and also at exit.

Top of the cable car -2626m- the area above it is called Pian dei Fiacconi.

We immediately took the path via the via ferrata to Punto Penio.

We crossed several snowfields. We needed crampons right below the via ferrata entrance.

The snowfields are extensive, full of soft spring snow.

We spotted the entrance to the via ferrata - the notch - Forcella Marmolada.

Before the via ferrata entrance, across this steep ice - first time putting on crampons.

Start of the via ferrata - Cresta Ovest. Seems I slightly wet the camera in this wet snow and didn't notice it at first.

Interesting rock mushroom along the via ferrata.

It goes quite steeply along smooth fairly vertical rocks.

Adjacent peaks - in front Piccolo Vernel 3.098 m, back right Gran Vernel 3.210 m.

The three-hour via ferrata is not yet over.

Now to the summit over very steep scree.

Finally we spot the summit with the large cross.

In front there is a somewhat strange bivouac.

Group shot of the via ferrata climbers. Almost alone on top - 3343 m - highest peak of the Dolomites.

Here starts the short but demanding climbing part of the descent.

Demanding steep descent onto the glacier.

This is what the entire glacier looks like. No danger of anything calving off.

On the glacier we go roped together in groups of three.

Already before the cable car. At the end of the glacier follows roughly half-hour pathless terrain over scree, gravel, rocks, smooth slabs.

As an exception, I became the king of Marmolada.

(+3)

ŠpRo2913. 08. 2019 13:21:34

@velkavrh, we beat you by one day velik nasmeh

Plan was Saturday, but due to weather we went one day earlier, but see you didn't have worse.
Nice there, ferrata crowded but we spread out nicely. Well protected, no issues. The "basket" uniquely interesting, good to shorten, but could start earlier nasmeh

(+1)

haridautovic20. 08. 2019 17:18:32

On Saturday 17.8. we visited it, up ferrata and down glacier direction. Let cable car-basket take us to valley just for thrill. As my role model Igor Z. said. Marmolada is mountain not to underestimate, (how right he was). As usual start early to avoid crowd in ferrata, and so it was. Midway ferrata catch up Italian couple slowly climbing cables. Overtake and continue. For this ferrata need lots arm strength because mostly steep smooth rocks. From ferrata wonderful almost unreal (for our planet) views. Wonder at all beauty why look for life on moon or mars. Arrived summit flooded with tons nice impressions feelings only this ascent gives, caught in dreams almost speechless, gentle hug said what no words. Long sat on top shelter Bivak-hut, enjoying views. When summit filling with glacier columns we decide descent right glacier. Supposed easier path after it, to me not easier because very steep glacier lots crevasses some literally jump over. To spice descent let cable car-baskets to valley just attraction. Hope pics say more than 2019 words, Enjoy MI2 still...

and we choose the concrete one to the right

We crossed the glacier without winter equipment

(+8)

Heavy_bull3. 08. 2020 09:27:00

On Saturday (1.8.2020) excellent conditions for ascent to Marmolada highest peak (Punta Penia 3.343 m). Crevasses on glacier currently manageable, but growing day by day - so walking/jumping over them harder. Rock jump at glacier exit also not problematic yet - biggest issue were numerous inexperienced unprepared individuals who struggled here causing long jams. Attractive antique cable car with baskets from Lago di Fedaia lake to Rifugio Pian dei Fiacconi shelter stopped operating this year.

(+3)

dprapr3. 08. 2020 09:43:24

That WC, bolted with a bolt, is unique. nasmeh

Nice pics.

(+1)

VanSims6. 08. 2020 13:02:43

True, baskets no longer work! mrk pogled

https://www.piandeifiacconi.com/site2017/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/articolo-trentino-apertura.jpg

črow24. 08. 2021 14:44:13

On Saturday, 21.8.2021, we ascended this peak. We started at first light from Lake Fedaia along path 606. At saddle Col de Bous, we did not continue up to the hut as described. We traversed a shortcut to the right. If you look closely, the path is visible and some cairns can be found. This saves some unnecessary walking. There is little snow to Forcella Marmolada saddle and it is not too steep. The unglaciated secured section from the snowfield to the saddle is quite slippery but well protected. From this saddle to the summit there is a wonderful secured path in compact rock. The difficulty of this ferrata is comparable to our secured path through Plemenice, but this one on Marmolada is about two hours shorter.
At the summit, it is wise to avoid the hut a bit if you do not intend to spend money. The warden is very allergic to provisioning from backpacks and has everything under control.
We descended in the direction of the normal approach. Somewhere a problematic section between the wall and the glacier is mentioned. This year there is none, either new protections have been added or there is more snow. The only thing disturbing the descent is the large crowd on the path. We walked in winter boots with automatic crampons. It would be better to have hiking boots with standard crampons. Here I mean 12-point crampons and not some chains.
The Pian dei Fiacconi hut was destroyed by an avalanche that hit it this winter.

(+14)

ločanka25. 08. 2021 11:38:12

Super! I would go too nasmeh

(+1)

felix25. 08. 2021 12:00:38

Super, I was there years ago. Last week I watched it from the top of Piz Boe. Given the destroyed hut, probably the cable car isn't working either?

j.25. 08. 2021 12:18:44

Nice! What a pity about the hut at Pian dei Fiacconi, it seemed friendly to me. We've probably said goodbye to the cable car forever.

Trobec25. 08. 2021 13:06:28

The cable car hasn't been working since last year, we had to walk from the lake cool

j.25. 08. 2021 13:59:47

Yes, I know, Trobec. But I still hoped it would come back to life someday.

črow25. 08. 2021 15:18:27

Ločanka, go for it. Given your abilities, this circular trail wouldn't be a problem.
No, the cable car isn't working. VanSims already wrote a post about it above mine. What will happen to it, they probably don't know themselves yet. They haven't even cleared the ruins. They're surely in the paperwork phase.
For the ascent to Marmolada, this cable car probably didn't help real hikers much. The Col de Bous saddle isn't far, and before they started it, you could already get there via Forcella Marmolada saddle.

mirank25. 08. 2021 15:32:43

Exactly, the cable cars and chairlifts there don't start operating before 8.30; besides, that prehistoric thing took you to the hut. To cross to Forcella Marmolada you'd have to descend quite a bit to the left down, so we always walked from the parking lot.

(+3)

BioK8. 09. 2021 09:52:00

The old cable car is supposed to be replaced by a new gondola.
https://www.skiresort.info/ski-resort/passo-fedaia-pian-dei-fiacconi-marmolada/ski-lifts/l107866/
The question is only when.

(+1)

Savinja1130. 07. 2022 20:01:30

View of Marmolada on 26.7.2022 from the Pordoi Pass - Porta Vescovo trail.

View of Marmolada from the path Pordoi pass - Porta Vescovo.

(+2)

turbo30. 07. 2022 20:27:18

View of Marmolada from Sassongher on 25.7.2022.

(+3)

bagi30. 08. 2023 14:42:29

The Marmolada massif offers a lot, so we continued exploring it. The day before, during descent from the Bepi Zac trail (here), we saw signs for Punto Penio and the idea quickly came up. We climbed past Rif. Contrin hut, continued via Hans-Seyffert ferrata to the highest peak of the Dolomites, descending towards Lago di Fedaia lake.

And that's how it was nasmeh

. The ferrata protections are in excellent condition, surprisingly few visitors to such an eminent peak, Punta Penia practically dry. But the glacier below it is another story, annoyingly crevassed and full of streams. There are crevasses, how deep we didn't investigate nasmeh

. Along the extreme left edge by the wall, it's apparently possible without crampons, at least judging by the mountain guide descending not far from us. Continuing towards Fedaia lake didn't excite us due to the monotony of the landscape. Obviously we got spoiled from the previous days velik nasmeh

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