| geppo2. 07. 2014 22:54:54 |
Križevnik II. 2.7.2014
While some still wonder if ice axe, crampons or micro-crampons, and if that snowfield still exists by chance and "messes with" hikers…? They write a lot to each other, philosophize and get angry 
Today, from Robanov kot quite a few snowfields were visible, but there are also some hidden ones not visible from the valley…
We didn't worry, ice axe/crampons, because the situation was already quite known from last time. But we took ropes and all related gear that belongs to this wild world we went to explore again. First task was to bring the young caver to the abyss so he could see what's below…?
And on the way we discover holes, little holes and it already looked like mushroom picking: "look there, and another one there…" This Križevnik is holed like cheese….
On the way we explore where we "missed" last time, because that climbing didn't look normal for a hunter's path. And we solved that "loop". We went a bit too high, but a bit lower it's much easier, and there's even a path...
The caver descends into the abyss (about 30m deep) and checks if anyone has been rummaging down there before. Traces (except banana peel), which a mischievous participant of our trip had lowered before, he didn't find. So, first one in the abyss!!! We in the meantime wandered around a bit, Janez of course to the tip and instead of a cairn made a "swallow" on top. It freezes me when I see that…
Then exploration continues. Earlier we noticed a barely visible track (lower than the abyss) to the east and my suggestion was to go along it. We descend to it and nicely along it. Followability was good and no problems on the way. Then as usual, you reach a gully and no trace where…?
Part of the team crawls through scree looking for passages until stopping before a scree slope. Janez searches passages among rocks in the gully. The gully isn't that damn demanding yet but wet and slippery because water flows through it. Nothing left but to abseil two pitches with rope help. The following rock jump isn't hard and again on "path". It comes from west and goes east. Where now? Janez explores east, I west. My variant appeals more to me and soon I turn back to see where Janez is? When I meet him, I enthuse him for "my" variant and after about half hour we reach the approach gully. Here we stop and democratically decide (we know this gully anyway), to go the other direction too. Soon in the forest we hit a tricky traverse - scree, wet ground, slope is constantly steep. When we reach the central gully that inspires awe, we realize it's best to turn back . We return to "our" approach gully and only down to valley left...
Start at Robanih 6:31
Abyss 9:50
Return to Robanov 17:00
This Križevnik ridge is beautiful, solitary, wild and at the same time a real mousetrap. Years ago I laughed at the written adventure of three alpinists who barely found back to the valley. Now I no longer laugh at the one written below….
Here is part of their story description…
lp
their description:
Descent in the middle of the wall, meaning abseils not along the winding ascent route, but straight down through unknown terrain. In a few hours back at the gully around 1480m where we came up in the morning. Hoping for better descent we start following a hunter's track crossing just below the ridge to the east. We descend, ascend a bit, descend again, in reality still very high. Since evening is here, we must find passage to valley ASAP. Problem is many high even steep waterfalls below us it would be unwise to descend into. Besides getting soaked for sure, oiled rock has no hold, almost no place to hammer pitons. We start abseils among bushes becoming more and more technically complicated. Mostly with spiced traverses - we detour overhangs and flee sideways from smooth water channels as much as possible.. After four hours battle in lower wall part, total 20 pitches abseils, almost all pitons used (even hidden reserves!), all auxiliary ropes used, with half-drilled main rope we land happily few minutes after midnight in the flat bed of Robanov kot.
Twenty-one hours since I left home, GSM signal rises enough to inform relatives and friends everything is fine. Handshakes and despite fatigue satisfied looks. No words needed, everyone knew exactly what the climbing partner felt. It was close, we had "material" left for just one more abseil pitch. Visibly "worked over" in hard darkness we trudge to the car, yet very satisfied that we solved today's master's thesis in serious terrain sovereignly and safely, in the best possible way. Richer for concrete experiences no other school can give, in the shelter of awakening morning darkness we drive home.
Perhaps at the end an interesting fact. Under the harder wall part a female chamois and day-old kid came to look at us twice. That's why we named our route "Route of young chamois".
Repetitions of the adrenaline descent we rather advise against, as it requires much more than just bare knowledge and gear ...
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