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Butinarjeva, Pripravniška and Župančičeva gullies in Mali Mojstrovka

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Viper17. 01. 2016 17:16:04
Today through all three gullies. Conditions in the gullies are excellent, except one jump in Pripravniška gully, which is hollow. Lots of people though.
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Towards Župančičeva grapa2
View downwards3
Župančičeva grapa4
Already towards the end of Župančičeva grapa5
Pripravniška grapa6
Jump in Pripravniška grapa, which is quite demanding and today they were also turning around here quite a bit7
Jump8
Butinarjeva grapa9
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Hammond17. 01. 2016 21:55:35
What grade would you give the jump in this condition? Are those few patches of snow at least usable (read: consolidated)?
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Viper17. 01. 2016 22:16:09
Those couple of snow patches are more of a hindrance. Mostly unconsolidated snow. In this condition you have to stick the ice axe more into the rock.
But it's a very short jump and you're quickly over it.
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ljubitelj gora17. 01. 2016 22:52:57
Just for info Butinarjeva gully is steeper than Pripravniška, Župančičeva.
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Hammond18. 01. 2016 10:19:43
Clear. Thanks to both.
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Wine24. 01. 2016 22:29:28
Today to Mojstrovka via Župančičeva gully. Conditions OK, in the gully one small jump where it goes with a bit of pushing, nothing serious. The jump in Pripravniška is harder, some were turning back there. Weather for gods, views crazy mežikanje
Župančičeva gully entrance1
short rocky step in the gully2
This jump in Pripravniška is a bit harder.3
I am outside.4
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exit section7
view from Mala Mojstrovka towards Bavški Grintovec8
classic motif from Velika Mojstrovka to the king9
ants on Mojstrovka and Kepa in the background10
Očak11
at Zadnja Mojstrovka12
only traces of snow on the southern path13
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ljubitelj gora1. 02. 2018 23:48:27
Butinarjeva was on Sunday 28.1.2018 nicely filled like this, what it will be like after this heavy snowfall. After sunset on Mali Mojstrovki, we descended via Pripravniška, which looked more like some steep stairs. Both gullies fully filled.
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tinky2. 02. 2018 07:11:11
Again conditions like six years ago. Who does this benefit? mrk pogledjezen
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ljubitelj gora2. 02. 2018 09:04:30
haha tinkyvelik nasmeh that was 28.1.2018
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tinky2. 02. 2018 10:18:02
Sorry, I was looking at the date under the pictures.nasmeh
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Tadej2. 02. 2018 10:21:28
I removed the date from the thread title.
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Macesna3. 04. 2019 14:38:20
Mala Mojstrovka via Pripravniška, 2. 4. 2019

Conditions in the gully, mostly in shade, were very good, fully iced up. On approach snow was sinking quite a bit in morning spots. From exit to Mojstrovka summit then fine. Descent down gully, still holds somehow. Quite solitary, few people.
Road to Vršič bare and dry.
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Todi27. 03. 2021 16:21:14
Today the weather didn't give views, surprisingly not windy. But nice hike above Vršič anyway, start in Butinarjeva, then down Pripravniška, and to keep wolf fed and goat safe also Župančičeva. At MM summit, some visitors and short break then to valley. Mixed conditions, hard base to soft and ice, bit of everything, ... end at EK for refresh.
lpM
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kolesar27. 03. 2021 17:13:52
Nice. Exactly the same I did yesterday except clear sky, sadly windy on top.
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Nejc78727. 03. 2021 19:13:25
Bravo! Good luck further!
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nenap28. 03. 2021 08:49:27

Congrats guys really nice velik nasmeh
Best, Nevenka
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hribba9. 02. 2022 21:58:04
Yesterday 8.2. we ascended Mala Mojstrovka via Župančičeva gully. From summit continued to Velika Mojstrovka and descended back to Vršič.
Mala Mojstrovka - Župančičeva gully - Description
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gorenjc9027. 04. 2022 23:18:47
Hi, anyone been in Pripravniška these days, what are conditions?
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ljubitelj gora12. 03. 2023 21:54:50
Late afternoon excellent conditions, better than morning ones judging by "holes" I made. Up Župančičeva, iced gully. After Mala up to Velika and waited longer for sunset up there. Snow compact already some 2 hours before sunset. Didn't meet anyone didn't see any either.
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Timmy13. 03. 2023 14:06:23
True, towards noon (around ten at the top) it was quite a bit softer than one would wish. Can't imagine how it was for the one who was lying there at one o'clock.
Just below the gully summit a thin frozen layer gave false sense of security - below hid quite unprocessed powder, so I dug such deep steps.

Question for those with more experience (leave aside that I ignored the fact the base was slowly starting to thaw at entrance): What would be smartest in this case?
-Enjoy the view and wait till evening to refreeze (enough fluids, clothes, light in backpack..)
-Descend and hope for the best?
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