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Bavški Pihavec Ridge

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journeyman15. 07. 2020 08:42:08
Aha, super. I watched you both on top of Veliki Jelenek and then as you descended the ridge.
Thanks for these two pics mežikanje
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alyas20. 10. 2021 14:36:44
The Pihavci Ridge is a side branch that splits off at the Vrh Osojnika saddle from the main Pelci - Bavški Grintavec ridge towards Bavšica and thus roughly separates the well-known alpine valleys Zadnja Trento to the east from Bala to the west. The ridge with average height just over 2,000 m has officially named and marked on maps only two peaks: Veliki and Mali Pihavec and further slightly south the descent-important peak Obljak.

When searching for route descriptions in this area, most useful stuff is found on the Primorske stene portal, on the essence, approach, difficulty and demands of the tour in M & M online notes, of course every explorer of this mountaineering paradise goes a bit their own way, so no trodden paths on approach, even less on descent, most noticeable are chamois tracks which can sometimes be usefully used.
From own experiences and insights the tour is best started in Bavšica, across Bala valley, the Pihavci ridge traverse from north to south, that is from Vrh Osojnika saddle to Obljak /for many the nicest ridge in Julijci/ and then from Obljak down very steep grass and steep forest to Bavšica, which in contrast to previous enjoyment on the ridge is no longer pleasant, as the descent is technically and orientationally veeery demanding.

The Pihavci ridge itself is exceptionally beautiful, panoramic and wildly exposed tour, up-down over numerous teeth, small ascents and descents, unlike surrounding ridges also mostly healthy and solid rock, steep Trent grass makes crossing harder rather than easier, especially dangerous in wet weather or frozen in shady spots.
The Pihavci ridge due to difficulty, exposure and variety that climbing offers is a very demanding tour, with Trent grade from M&M between II and III, would advise recreational without proper experience and mileage against it without belaying and guiding, as any retreat and descent from the ridge is out of question, to Bala valley or the other side to Dolič valley towards Bukovnik, due to precipitousness and cliff-cut walls, practically you can fly.

The most demanding part of the ridge traverse is certainly the descent into the notch between Veliki and Mali Pihavec which exceeds III, so better to rappel into it, there's a peg installed, abseil about 25 m. As mentioned above, don't underestimate the descent on steep and dense grass either, where you'll be grateful for the recommendation to bring a light ice axe.
We did the tour on a nice October day 2021, total time about 10-11 h, … more in descriptions under photos.
Morning in the Bale valley, when before Prevala we search for the right branch towards the saddle Vrh Osojnika.1
we don't turn towards Pelci, but stay more to the right2
towards the Vrh Osojnika saddle3
saddle named Vrh Osojnika, at the junction of several unmarked paths4
view from the saddle to Pihavci and the first part of the ridge towards Oplačnica5
the entry part we do along chamois trails left of the ridge edge6
due to the sheer walls and steep grass, rope is almost mandatory from the start7
view from the ridge back - Pelci in the background8
around some pinnacle, cut off below, but just enough space for boot and step9
continuing a bit on the right side of the ridge edge10
some spots for rest before continuing to Vel.Pihavec11
again a tower that we prefer to bypass12
the most enjoyable and beautiful part of the traverse to Vel.Pihavec13
smaller ascents and descents line up continuously on the ridge14
view from the Pihavci ridge to the adjacent ridge running from Nizki vrh, Špičica, Skutnik, Jelenka15
the last part to Vel.Pihavec still promises some adrenaline views16
cool narrow17
throwing the rope and clipping to the spikes18
descending such steep grasses down, it works, but without rope not recommended19
then again a bit up on solid rock20
part of the ridge on solid rock, view ahead21
on the ridge, view back22
Vel. Pihavec - comfortable, wide, grassy summit23
view of the continuation towards Mali Pihavec24
view of Mali Pihavec and the notch below it25
above the notch between Vel. and Mali Pihavec, the most difficult part of the tour is coming26
very demanding section above the notch to the anchor and rappel27
we check the piton and anchor and set up the rope for the rappel28
view down and to the notch below29
and view back up to the cca 25m rappel, so you need almost 60m rope30
in the notch between Veliki and Mali Pihavec31
view back on Vel. Pihavec - from where we came32
view of Mali Pihavec which we climb right of the ridge cut, easiest on chamois paths33
at the summit of M. Pihavec34
view of the adjacent ridge Loške stene, from Vrh Krnice to Morež35
Loška stena, from Morež to Plešivec and snow-covered Mangart in the background36
view to the other side - to the pathless area between Jelenk and Šmihelovec with white Triglav in background37
we go further, ahead unnamed, let's call it the last Pihavec38
... still have to climb39
behind the horn is a fairly narrow ridge40
Although it is green, it is extremely narrow.41
View back to the descent slope.42
The ridge is not over yet.43
On the last peak of the Pihavci, where chamois usually live.44
View of the descent towards Obljak.45
Obljak is surrounded front and back by a belt of scrub.46
The summit of Obljak is also beautiful and spacious.47
View from Obljak to Bavščica, where the descent is still very long and strenuous.48
Downhill, one must first find good passages through the scrub.49
In reality, it is steeper than it looks in the picture.50
View of Pl. Bukovec, where descent is also possible.51
No, we stick to the nearest direction through the forest to Bavščica, where there is no path.52
From there above, from Obljak through the forest where we descended, it is steeper than it looks on the picture.53
Last sun rays in the Bavšica valley near PUS Bavšica.54
And also the map.55
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palček plezalček20. 10. 2021 15:32:40
Bravo, congratulations. nasmeh
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lijaneja20. 10. 2021 17:26:39
Really beautiful and magnificent tour. In Drago's company I experienced it years ago with a big spoon too. Veliki Pihavec alone is an experience, I've been there quite a few times, for the traverse of course you need rope. Shame you opened a new thread, as there are already quite a few descriptions. Please delete about ten č's. Thanks.
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dprapr20. 10. 2021 19:57:35
Tone, don't complicate. There's no č on the last picture.nasmeh
Nice tour you've done. Congratulations.
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Shkaro20. 10. 2021 20:04:42
Bravo everyone, nice tour! nasmeh
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turbo20. 10. 2021 20:04:51
Tone is quite right mežikanje Correct is Bavšica not Bavščica. So it's really necessary to "remove" quite a few "č"s velik nasmeh
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lijaneja22. 10. 2021 11:12:57
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alyas22. 10. 2021 19:59:40
well, unfortunately it happens that you sometimes miss something, ... searching forum titles here is quite specific and precise and if you're not attentive enough zmeden... of course Tadej can move it if possible.
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lijaneja22. 10. 2021 20:08:57
No problem at all, @alyas, I also had trouble finding it. I think Tadej could simplify this 'search' a bit so we typists don't struggle too much with searching.
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dprapr22. 10. 2021 21:52:51
Tone, when we're old, such “torment” is just recommended. mežikanje
Otherwise, as far as I'm concerned there can be more topics about this beautiful ridge. But the ridge remains the only one in its splendor. Hope to touch it again sometime.
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lijaneja22. 10. 2021 23:26:23
And that from the opposite direction, where you ascend over the most demanding part of the tour, Obljak, not descend, because it's much easier.
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dprapr23. 10. 2021 13:28:54
Yes, it would be interesting to approach Obljak again from Planina Bukovec.
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lijaneja23. 10. 2021 14:50:57
But first to 'MR', then two months in jail, then until May or June building condition from almost zero.mrk pogled
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taubi413. 06. 2022 18:15:15
With great pride I can say that we repeated the traverse of the Bavški Pihavci, rare users of Hribi net, especially their legends Jovan, Dragot and Tone. Without their descriptions and photos we probably would never have attempted this feat. So biggest thanks to all three. I would be unfair if I didn't mention also the nice photo report by Alyas (Igor?).
Since we knew the tour would be marathon, we drove to Bavšica already on Saturday afternoon and camped there.
We got up at 5:00, fried and ate 10 eggs, checked all gear again and set off at 6:10 towards Planina Bala. Weather was ideal, no cloud with light wind, so morning dew was almost dry.
First mistake at Preval, because we didn't descend from marked path in time to bypass the annoying scrub. True, we lost no height, but bushwhacking through and over scrub cost at least 15 minutes. Once out, we started ascending the bottom of a shallow gully that brought us left below the saddle of Vrh Osojnika. To the saddle we traversed steep grass. At least they seemed steep then, later we realized they were more gentle than steep. Reached saddle at 10:00 and took half-hour sun break with view to Nizki vrh, Špičica, Skutnik, Veliki Jelenk and other distant peaks to the east.
Put on climbing harnesses just in case and set off unroped on the divine ridge traverse. Stuck strictly to the ridge up to 3rd difficulty grade, bypassing only a couple really bad corners. To V. Pihavec took 1 hour 15 min. There we had early lunch, sandwich I barely ate as despite drinking a liter of elderflower I had completely dry mouth. Anže and I took another 10-15 min for afternoon siesta.
After 15 min walk reached the abseil point to saddle between M. and V. Pihavec. Whole maneuver 40 min, then already ascending the nicest part of the tour, strictly along ridge to top of M. Pihavec. Here I 100% agree with Jovan that along the ridge is safest. Unfortunately this adrenaline ridge ended after 10 min. Didn't linger long on top of M. Pihavec and already descending towards "Last Pihavec" and on to Obljak. On the last ascent to it the ridge top is completely covered in scrub.
We therefore ascended right of it on quite crumbly but easier traversable slope. From M. Pihavec to Obljak one hour.
After half-hour break started the for me most demanding and dangerous third of the path. Up to here no orientation issues, as on ridge no living soul can get lost. On descent faced the problem immediately and several times after. Think we descended too far left already on first grasses, soon found ourselves above steep gully with direct view to Planina Bukovec. At first chance started traversing back right. That traverse was in my opinion the most dangerous section of today's tour. Whole day I was scared only here. Must note we did whole descent with ice axe in hand. After that traverse reached somewhat less demanding terrain, but couldn't get far enough right as wanted, as between us and desired slope was steep deep gully. After 450m descent, which took 1.5 hours, reached nice fairly flat beech forest. Were overjoyed that these precipitous descents finally over. Sadly, it was counting chickens before they hatch. After that forest almost running descended 200m in quarter hour, then sheer bank. Searched a while for smart passage but none. Finally decided for rappels. Did 5 in row and for 100m height used 1 hour 15 min. For next 250m down steep gully another half hour and found ourselves on marked path, 10 min from PUS Bavšica.
Without that last third it would be dream tour, as is probably one-time but still wonderful. And one can't believe how good Laško tastes after twelve and a half hours.
Photos follow with a few day delay.
Start of the tour at PUS Bavšica1
Towards Bali2
View of our ridge today3
Saddle, here we should descend from the path4
Looking for the best passages through the scrub5
Apparently I found the best ones6
A little below Vrh Osojnika7
Same picture, perhaps a bit nicer8
Vrh Osojnika9
First teeth in the ridge10
Continuation as strictly as possible along the ridge11
still on it12
First bypass13
View back at it14
The rock is relatively solid15
To Veliki Pihavec, still two unnamed peaks16
The first one more grassy17
The second more rocky18
We descend to the last saddle19
On it, a slightly longer break at halftime20
Anže checks where to place all four limbs21
Preparing the belay for rope descent must be 100%22
Into the notch without problems23
Ascent towards the most beautiful part of the tour24
Pure poetry of scrambling25
Handholds and footholds are almost perfect26
Along the heavenly ledge towards the sun27
View back at V. Pihavec28
At the summit of Mali Pihavec29
Descent towards Zadnji Pihavec30
No matter how much Anže stretches to the right, PUS Bavšica is still not visible31
Not only ridge climbing, but also the chimney ascent we did.32
Just below the summit of Zadnjega.33
Ahead of us is already Obljak, to it right of the ridge via scree, after it then....34
...steep grass that will sh... grab you.35
From there the gully to Planina Bukovec was visible, so we retreated right along the steepest slope. No one dared to take photos.36
Here it was already easier to breathe.37
The traverse by which we retreated was even steeper than this one.38
Finally in the forest that promised a comfortable descent.39
The joy of Leja and Anže, authors of all photos except this one, was premature.40
We did another five such rappels before after two hours standing by the car.41
This last one was done without protection.42
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palček plezalček13. 06. 2022 19:23:14
Congratulations, wonderful start to the summer mountaineering season. nasmeh
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lijaneja14. 06. 2022 17:22:26
You wrote nicely, Ivo, now I'm impatiently waiting for the pics.nasmeh
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taubi415. 06. 2022 22:09:59
The trip took twelve and a half hours, but posting the photos took three days. So you know what's harder.
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zokipoki16. 06. 2022 12:04:31
Congrats on the feat! Those steep grasses on pics look really dangerous! I don't even dare to think about how it is if you slip there...eek
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lijaneja16. 06. 2022 19:37:57
Superca, Ivo. You had really excellent conditions. Dragot and I had bad luck with fog from Mali P. onwards. If you have nice pics of neighbouring peaks from Mali, please send it to me. And you could introduce the young lady to us a bit closer.nasmeh
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