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Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403)

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bagi4. 09. 2018 21:30:43
The Carnic 403 crosses the entire mountain range of the Carnic Alps from Sillian near the Dolomites to Thorl-Maglern near Tarvisio. It is also called the Peace Trail in memory of the bloody events of World War I. The nearly 200 km long trail was one big front line back then and even today it's full of military remnants along its entire length.

The *Höhenweg 403* trail mostly follows the border ridge between Austria and Italy, in the first half right under the peaks or over them. Due to favorable conditions we went entirely on this highest mountain variant. In case of bad weather or other reasons, some lower detours are occasionally possible, also marked 403 or 403a. For overnight stays, there are plenty of mountain huts mainly on the Austrian side. In high season they are quite full and reservations are almost mandatory.

We decided to hike the entire trail in one go for this year's vacation. As it turned out later, we were incredibly lucky with the date choice, as despite the rainy summer there was no noteworthy rain on any day and not a single peak was in fog. The rain gear only went for a walk with us this time and despite its considerable weight we were very happy about that nasmeh.

We started a bit further from Sillian, namely in San Candido, right at the beginning of the Carnic ridge. You can get there by train from Villach, but friends brought us to the starting point. Thanks to them nasmeh. From Ljubljana it took us two and a half hours.

After a few excellent cappuccinos and farewell we finally set off on the long trail towards Slovenia. There's no point describing the daily distances, as every single day was special and full of experiences. The trail is well maintained, excellently marked, views wonderful all the way. We didn't overdo the pace, didn't set any of those modern norms and timetables velik nasmeh. Instead we leisurely enjoyed and visited most of the nearby peaks. Their difficulty varies, from easily walkable green peaks to more difficult rocky approaches. We had no major issues, but were quite cautious on exposed sections due to the substantial weight of the backpacks.

We slept in well-organized huts with friendly staff. Usually we took half-board and used the PZS membership discount. It applies only to overnight stays. For a few euros we could shower with hot water in every hut and that was invaluable after a full day of hiking jezik.

Service was always excellent and on time. Food varied, far from our ričet, jota and beans. Breakfasts were mostly self-service and unlimited. You could stuff yourself silly and prepare a snack for the trail without any bad conscience nasmeh. Where possible, we stopped during the day for a hot meal.

At the end of the trail we drew a line under all costs. Calculated, overnight stays, showers, all food and drinks came to about 60 €/day/person. On such a long trail it doesn't get much cheaper, but you can sleep in a sleeping bag or tent in front of the hut and save a euro or two.

In the end…

We got much more than expected. Nice weather, wonderful views, really nice trail, unique experiences. There are trails you go once and trails you always happily return to. Carnic 403 without doubt belongs to the latter nasmeh.

More written in the photo story. For all first-hand info I'm as always available on my email or PM (both in profile).

Some relentless stats from Garmin (Montana 600)…

Starting coordinates in San Candido: 46°43''51.2"N / 12°17''03.9"E
Trail length incl. peaks: 190 km
Elevation gain incl. peaks: 14,355 m
Took for the whole trail: 8 days



Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) WHY, WARUM ... WHY did we set out on this long path??? Because we enjoy it and like to discover the unknown.1
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) We started in San Candido and slowly ascended on the easy path marked 04 towards our first summit.2
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) On the right, the Sexten Dolomites opened up before us.3
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) View back from Monte Elmo. Numerous chimneys under the summit are part of extensive underground military facilities from WW1.4
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) View in the direction of continuation. Not far ahead is the very popular Sillianer Hütte hut, which is closed this year for renovation.5
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Immediately after Monte Elmo, the Karnian 403 joins with its official start in the town of Sillian. From here on, the 403 markers are constant.6
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Most days green color prevailed. The reason is old volcanic rocks overgrown with low grass and abundant moisture.7
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) The peaks are quite high despite their friendly appearance. The first three days we moved around 2500 m elevation.8
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) One of the path markers. At junctions there are always poles with signs, elsewhere marks on rocks, objects, trees and more...9
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Idyllic landscape with numerous ponds is also standard. In the photo in the basin is the alpine hut where we spent the first night of the hike.10
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Obstansersee Hütte, nice well-kept hut in an exceptional location right by the lake. Mid-August it was fully occupied.11
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Carnic Alps, Dolomites in the background.12
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Our ridge. Despite its seemingly innocent look at first glance it wasn't always so tame :)13
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) The path climbs some peaks, others you tackle yourself. No orientation issues anywhere.14
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) We constantly ascended and descended. The whole path is actually a collection of old military links.15
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Alpine flowers despite abundant greenery were not as plentiful as at home.16
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Paths are well-trodden. Substrate is scree without large rocks, very pleasant for walking.17
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Carnia is a geological fracture and limestone rocks occasionally appear here too. Hiking character changes immediately, becomes more demanding.18
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Monte Cavalino (Grosse Kinigat), very popular peak. Two secured old military approaches and category D via ferrata lead to it.19
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Neighboring Monte Cavallatto (Kleine Kinigat) despite innocent appearance practically inaccessible. Reason: peak shattered into spires and crumbly.20
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) In the saddle branches off the path to Filmoor Hütte shelter, which to me is a normal alpine hut.21
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Often cairns along the path, but completely unnecessary. Probably mark points rather than the path course.22
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Monte Cavalino from Filmoor Hütte hut.23
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Path continuation splits to lower left variant of 403 and High Path 403. This runs on wonderful D’Ambros ferrata.24
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Detail of D’Ambros ferrata, actually again old military path. Army used ridge as natural defense wall.25
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) D'Ambros ferrata runs along entire ridge in photo foreground.26
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Countless border stones encountered on path. All dated 1920 due to border set in Saint-Germain shortly before.27
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Due to the direction of hiking we had the sun directly in our faces every morning. Fortunately high cloud cover always formed in the afternoon.28
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) This is mostly how the path runs. Getting lost is practically impossible.29
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) These didn't hike the entire ridge, they parked right at the nearby alpine pasture :)30
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Behind every summit ten new ones open up. We only visited the ones along the path, the others would take too much time.31
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Slowly approaching familiar summits. In the background Monte Peralba.32
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Monte Pietra Bianca (Torkarspitz). There are marked and unmarked paths to it, both exceptionally steep on grass.33
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) The markers are typically Austrian and due to size and reflective color much more visible than ours.34
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) On the entire path we mostly encountered yellow Austrian signs, Italian red-white ones only as samples.35
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Little lake by the path. Due to the soil composition we encountered exceptionally many of them.36
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Almost all Italian alpine pastures originate from former military objects behind the front line. This one too is from that period.37
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Another lake and pasture beside it. Slowly entering the area of the highest mountain of the Carnic Alps … Monte Coglians (Hoche Warte).38
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) On the path ...39
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Wolayersee lake with Lambertenghi hut right below the edge of the opposite shore.40
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Below Wolayersee lake with Wolayersee Hutte hut, right Monte Capolago, left ridge towards Monte Coglians.41
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Rauchkofel. Here we met the only Slovene, Jože from Celje.42
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Gray-green contrasts43
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Carnic geological fault with completely different rocks.44
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Morning and back on the path. After what day do kilometers no longer feel long and backpack no longer heavy. Then you just walk and enjoy :)45
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) A new form of markers appears, but the number 403 remains.46
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Monte Coglians is already far behind us and we crossed Plockenpass. Summits here are lower, temperatures noticeably higher.47
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Everything is still green, only the grass is higher and it has become sultry.48
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Polinik in the background49
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Creta di Timau nearby50
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Markacist had an idea and time :)51
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Towards Cuestalta (Hoher Trieb)52
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) A peak very familiar to us … Veliki Koritnik. After retreating from the ridge due to a thunderstorm in the neighboring valley, we later tackled it from the Austrian side.53
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) The weather had become more unstable in recent days, but despite downpours nearby we didn't need rain gear.54
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Chance for a wet cooldown just before Mokrine (Nassfeld). Mokrine was the only larger settlement on the entire path.55
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) We also tackled Poludnig. It is not exactly on the path, but that day we were quick and had time.56
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Poludnigalm pasture57
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Dam for cattle watering58
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) The sun was again covered by threatening clouds, but we had already gotten used to it. Usually we covered the backpacks with a tarp for a nice impression and prepared umbrellas :)59
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Bistriška planina below Ojstrnik and cow company at rest60
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Chapel of Our Lady of the Snows near Bistriška planina61
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) This was our last day. Gorjanski vrh is in the background, where we still need to go.62
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) We are already almost home. The western Julijci greeted us :)63
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Very panoramic Gorjanska planina. The border between Italy and Austria runs through the middle of the planina. From here we only descended further.64
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Our finale after steep descent to the village Thorl-Maglern by the old Italy-Austria road link.65
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) GPS track of the walked path...66
Carnic High Trail (Karnischer Hohenweg 403) Let our data only serve as aid in route planning. Let everyone adapt the stages to their abilities.67
(+31)like
bbugari14. 09. 2018 23:11:54
Phenomenal, wonderful, congratulations... nasmeh nasmeh nasmeh
Just a small historical correction: on picture 27 there is a border stone marking the year of installation (1920) after the Saint-Germain agreement (1919), not Rapallo, although the border here stayed the same as before the First World War.
(+3)like
skalaš705. 09. 2018 00:21:42
Speechless, I just say BRAVO and safe steps further!nasmeh
(+4)like
maks575. 09. 2018 06:53:40
Fantastic! Bravo! Sincere congratulations!

How many peaks did you conquer on the trail?
(+5)like
geppo5. 09. 2018 07:49:27
Read with pleasure and interesting photo presentationcool
lp
(+4)like
bagi5. 09. 2018 08:59:44
Thanks all for sincere congratulations nasmeh
@maks57 ... we hiked 33 peaks
@bbugari ... thanks, added
(+5)like
zokmann5. 09. 2018 11:05:03
crazy, wonderful, congratulations,
g.r
(+4)like
janez.novak5. 09. 2018 12:07:33
Congratulations! Every day you hiked over 30 km and 2300 elevation gain - quite some pace!
(+5)like
serznoz5. 09. 2018 20:03:13
Bravo, hats off-
(+4)like
lino5. 09. 2018 20:31:10

This is such a wonderful vacation it already borders on a beautiful fairy tale. Good luck and much joy also in the future I wish. Lp
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MatejaP6. 09. 2018 08:44:33
I also thank you nicely for the congratulations and recommend a visit if you have the chance, as logistically it's not too much hassle.

This kind of vacation has gotten under our skin, you unplug your head and just walk and enjoy the beautiful views where you can't see the endvelik nasmeh

May we all be granted such enjoyment for a long timenasmeh




(+7)like
2061alessio12. 09. 2018 20:08:50
you probably know that on the Italian side there is a 7-day hike "traversata carnica" from S.Candido to Coccau (village on the border before Thoerl Maglern where KHW 03 ends); it continues like this: s.candido-obstannersee hutte- m.cavallino-malga melin- passo palombino -val visdende- casera manzon-malga chivion- passo oregone-sorgenti del piave- rif. calvi- passo sesis- val fleons- casera sissanis- passo giramondo- lago volaia-rif. lambertenghi- sentiero spinotti-rif. marinelli- passo monte croce carnico- pal piccolo - pal grande- passo avostanis- malga pramosio-sella cercevesa- cason di lancia- pramollo-poludnig-rif. nordio-malga acomizza-sella bartolo-m.goriane-coccau . search the website for "traversata carnica".
(+5)like
AI11. 10. 2019 13:55:36
Since Bagi's post, the thing hasn't let me rest.
I've always liked the Carnics, hiking eight days through the Carnics is close to nirvana.
The penultimate week of September promised at least four days of nice weather, the ten-day forecast was optimistic too, so the decision fell almost instantly.
Two days of prep, buying some missing gear and studying (extensive) Bagi's documentation, which he kindly sent me.
Original plan was morning departure from home to the nearby train station, then via Jesenice, Villach and Lienz to Sillian. But it turned out that due to changes you lose quite some time, which on the first day due to altitude and distance isn't plentiful. So a friend kindly dropped me at Villach station, then it went smoothly and at half past nine I was already at the start in Sillian, where the official start of trail 403 is.
The trail to the first ridge peak, Helm, is nicely arranged, benches and historical-info boards make the ascent easier, where you happily rest for a couple minutes and check the signs in three languages. Water isn't lacking along the trail either. Additionally, the ascent was spiced up by sweet blueberries ripening at 2000+ m. nasmeh
As for the trail itself, Bagi has said pretty much everything. The trail is really excellent therapy for both soul and body. nasmeh
Without solid fitness it's not doable, but no special training needed either. Mostly you can bypass under the ridges and peaks instead. But the tour loses some attractiveness that way.
Mostly I followed Bagi's plan and ascended most peaks. But the stages are quite long and strenuous, and usually I was among the last at the hut.
Interestingly, more people had a similar plan than expected. Quite a few older couples too. Mostly they followed "valley" variants so no crowds on ridges, but huts fuller than expected.
I usually avoid huts for sleeping in mountains, but on such a long trail no choice, and Austrian huts leave a much better impression than ours.
Unfortunately the Carnic crossing ended sooner than hoped. The ten-day forecast was wrong and I aborted after four nice days at Plockenpass. The essence of such a tour is enjoying the trail and views, so walking in rain and fog really didn't appeal. But I'll surely return.
Finally thanks again to Bagi, Mateja and Slavko for all info and of course the ride home.

Start of path 403 in Sillian1
Information board and trough with excellent water along the path2
Blueberries at 2300 m a.s.l.3
Helm/Monte Elmo, start of the ridge4
Helm is an excellent viewpoint5
View of Sillian in the valley6
Now it gets serious7
First day mostly follows the ridge, on this section the MTB tour also follows the ridge8
The day was already turning into evening when I spotted the Obstansersee lake and hut9
Morning view from the ridge towards the south10
View from Grosse Kinigat/Monte Cavalinno towards the east. In the distance Peralbo and Coglians are already visible.11
Filmoor Hütte, in the background Veliki Klek is visible.12
The ridge continues via the beautiful D'Ambros via ferrata13
Easier path leads through the valley with small lakes14
The most interesting via ferrata detail so far, from ladder directly into the tunnel15
From the first tunnel to the second, then along a narrow ledge in the middle of the wall to easier terrain16
This is how it looks from afar. Helmet is mandatory for the via ferrata.17
Porza/Cima Palombino beckons...18
Along the path there were lots of boletus mushrooms19
Interesting WWI relic under Porza20
Next hut, Porze Hütte from Porza21
Descent from Porza via an exposed ramp in the middle of the wall22
Nicely arranged hut Porze Hütte and behind Porza. In all huts they spoke good English, so I didn't need my broken German.23
View back to Porza and Crode dei Longerin24
Erecting a cross on the summit of Stollen25
A large flock of sheep, interestingly guarded by a shepherd with a dog26
Hochspitz/Monte Vancomun27
Torkarspitz/Monte Pietra Bianca on the left and huge Peralba on the right28
On the south side to Torkarspitz leads an attractive path that somewhat resembles the path from Mangart to MKM29
View towards Peralba from Torkarspitz30
Some kilometers have already accumulated31
But there will be more of them... In the distance Coglians/Hohe Warte.32
Hochweisssteinhaus. The only hut without GSM coverage. If you ask, the warden tells you that the signal is a 10-minute walk above the hut towards Peralba. She was right. :)33
Interesting rock on the path towards the Passo Giramondo saddle34
There are plenty of tarns along the path35
Mountains above Lake Volayer/Volaia are really photogenic, in the picture Coglians/Hohe Warte, at 2780 m a.s.l. the highest peak of the Karnics36
On the other side even more beautiful Monte Capolago/Seekopf37
Another thick tree above Obere Valentialm. Shortly afterwards I arrived below the Plockenpass pass, where transport home was waiting for me.38
(+7)like
matzaj17. 03. 2025 06:54:12
Hello.
I'm interested - those who have hiked the trail - if you stick only to the trail and avoid peaks - is a helmet needed?
like
bagi17. 03. 2025 09:19:37
Hi

Trail 403 mostly runs along ridge paths with some alternative detours. The trail was originally for military and laid out accordingly. In many places it goes directly over peaks, most of which you visit by choice. We had helmets with us, but no particular need to use them.
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gasperv6. 07. 2025 18:33:13
End of June my wife and I hiked trail no. 403.
Basis were stages from the Carnic Alps guidebook and trace from Mapzs (https://mapzs.pzs.si/path/139774). For hut reservations we used the website https://www.karnischer-hoehenweg.com/

Huts were very full first five stages (to Valentinalm). Most huts cash only. Shower available in every hut, food good, shared bunks not too big.

To start in Arnbach we had arranged car transport, after end we got home without issues and quickly by public transport (bus and two trains).

First part of trail stays at higher altitude, alpine environment. But last stages also offered great views. Along the trail many small lakes, we saw some chamois, lots of marmots and diverse flowers.

No water issues on trail. Could refill at every hut, and also some spots in between.

Trail completely snow-free. Marked well (except around Mokrin), but some sections, especially second part, overgrown with high grass or bushes.

If we look at individual stages - none stand out in length or elevation. But hiking eight consecutive days can still be tiring.

Trail no. 403 is an exceptional experience. If interested, I warmly recommend it.
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(+7)like
Indi6. 08. 2025 19:59:03
In mid-July we two and two more female hikers hiked the High Carnic Trail. For me especially cool were completely new mountain trails and views. The atmosphere on the trail and in the huts was a bit like on the Camino; we often met some hikers and chatted. Some shepherds and foresters also addressed us. You can sleep almost on all Austrian and Italian pastures along the trail; just contacts for local huts are harder to find. And German guidebooks for the High Carnic Trail have shorter stages than suggested by Habjan and Bagi above; I learned from German-speaking hikers. ;-) To the starting point in Sillian Arnbach we came by trains, departure from Ljubljana at 5:24, arrival in Sillian Arnbach at 10:32 for 20 euros.
(+4)like
bernarda hrovat7. 08. 2025 20:43:19
Hello,
next week my husband and I intend to hike the High Carnic Trail to Plockenpass. The huts are very full; actually I couldn't reserve accommodation in any of them. But do I correctly understand that one can also sleep at shepherds' and not only in mountain huts? Do they take you under the roof in the hut even if it's full - like at home - so you can sleep on the floor?
We will be very grateful for any answer.
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Lunatixz12. 08. 2025 07:28:02
I used a nice weather window and from Friday to Sunday hiked the High Carnic Trail to Plockenpass - in less than three days about 60km and 4000m elevation. It's a wonderful landscape and I definitely recommend it to all fans of longer trails. Big advantage: tons of lakes and water sources on trail where you could cool off despite high heat (practically every two hours or less, exception only section between Porzehutte and Hochweißsteinhaus)

Due to hut occupancy I had no choice but to bivouac on trail (set up at dusk, packed at 6am), which turned out to be a top decision. Since I usually finished the day an hour ahead of last hut I hiked alone almost all day, met people only at hut stops, and even there not many.. at least compared to TNP visit.

@Bernarda - huts really very full, but usually you can get some space without reservation, at least that was experience of some individuals I talked to on trail. Of course risk exists they are completely full and what they do then unfortunately I don't know.
On the way to Obstanersee Hutte, in the background one of many waterfalls on the path.1
In the area of Unterstand Obstanser Boden bivouac.2
Obstanersee lake and the hut beside it.3
In the first part of the path, the Sexten Dolomites constantly steal the views.4
Another variant with flowers, of which there are many on the path at this time.5
Spring or small waterfall on the path from the saddle towards Porzehutte.6
Look back towards the saddle, over which you descend if you take the lower variant of the path from Filmoor-Standschützen Hutte. I myself practically always stuck to the high path, similar to Bagi.7
Look back at the traversed path.8
The first night I bivouacked somewhere in the Croda Nera area at 2400m altitude.9
A wonderful day is promised, it's the royal stage of the hike towards Hochweißsteinhaus, but on the path at least in this part there is practically no water.10
11
View back towards Hochweißsteinhaus and in the background the saddle over which you descend on the way to the hut. In the central part there are huge amounts of blueberries, on the last part of the path to the hut surprisingly also raspberries.  12
Fleons valley on the Italian part of the path, in the background the mighty wall of Monte Fleons (if I'm not mistaken)13
Another view back towards the Fleons valley.14
Morning view from the tent again promised a wonderful day. This time about 20km awaited me to Plockenpass, fortunately I could cool off in between in the cold lake Wolayer See. 15
(+8)like
bagi12. 08. 2025 08:43:15
@bernarda ... every hut has some extra bed for very bad weather cases, but in nice weather they'll hardly accommodate you, especially Austrians. These are more on-the-spot decisions by hut keepers, you can't count on them for sure. They don't know our sleeping variants.

Not possible to sleep at every pasture, but at some yes. In September Carnic 403 will calm down a bit due to end of vacations, if that period suits you.
like
AI26. 08. 2025 13:09:40
@Lunatixz, since I'm planning something similar, as self-sufficient as possible for autumn, I'm interested what you did with food and water, did you supply in huts or had food with you, water refilled along the trail?
(+1)like
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